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#140 Seongsan and the wild horses of Seopjikoji, Jeju

Areas discussed: Jeju South Korea, Jeju Olle Trail, Seongsan Ilchulbong Marine Provincial Park, Seopjikoji

58 minutes Jeju Island, South Korea

All transcripts are machine generated.

Transcript

I read it at 8 minutes till the bus gets here, so today I'm going to go up the Sunrise Mountain. I'll look up the proper name in a minute. I'm going to pull up my phone. But I didn't quite make it all the way there last time. There's this extra little peninsula that I was going to walk around and then go up this fancy pants, 180 meter, amazing view, cost five bucks to go up thing.

It always takes me so long to get rolling each day that I'm like, hmm, you know, I should probably just skip straight to that. Just to make sure. I think it's open till 7 o'clock. But you know, I don't have to literally go around the whole shore, of course. So who knows, we'll see. I'm going to skip past the extra little peninsula for now. Go straight up the Sunrise Mountain. And then you know, I'll see how I feel after that. Maybe I'll go back and loop around it. I don't know. Maybe I'll just keep going, whatever. But yeah, oh jeez, as if. Make sure to really reinforce that idea. You know, I tried to get going. Early issue. I woke up around noon. But then by the time I got on my shit together and I got going. And then I got to the bus stop. And for the first time, I left my key card for my hotel. I fucking left it in the room. Which I don't know if I've described this yet, but it's like a cool system where there's. You got to put your key card in a little slot in the wall. And that turns on the room. Like it turns on. It turns on all the power and makes the internet turn on and the lights work and stuff. And it's kind of neat because theoretically, I thought it would make it easier to not leave your card, because you know, you got to take it out to turn off the lights and stuff. Somehow, I just forgot today. Well, let me and I guess I manually turned off the lights. But anyway, walk to the bus stop. Went to get on the bus, saw that my fucking hotel card was missing in my wallet. Hiked back to the fucking hotel. Got the lady to help me out. Came back to the bus stop. So it's like 2 p.m. now. And it's going to be a long-ass bus ride. So I think I'd best just get straight to. Straight to the sunrise mountain. No time to fuck around.

But it is weird having a goal. One thing I love about just meandering is, you know, I can just get up whenever and go to wherever and just walk along the shore and see what I can see. This is unusual that I got a specific place to go that has a certain time frame that it's open. And even though it's all goddamn day long, it's still, it's surprisingly awkward. Because yeah, like I don't want to just get there and spend the first 90 minutes meandering around some other peninsula before I go up that one. Last night, as usual, just couldn't fall asleep. One of these things were at like 5 in the morning. My fucking brain just kicks into gear and is like super awake. And it's like exhaustion fighting this nonsense fucking exuberance I got out of nowhere. And it's like, Jesus, what the fuck? You know, which again wouldn't matter so much. But I'm like, dude, come on. I want to go do the fucking sunrise mountain tomorrow. Just go to sleep. You idiot.

You're supposed to go to sleep many hours before this. But it all basically worked out. I think it's all right.

That little hike back to the hotel. Not that big a deal overall. But yeah, this is, I have a feeling this is not going to be common. It's just I got to do this one thing. It's like so cool looking. This is big cool mountain. And it's one of the very few things I heard about on Jeju before I came here. I don't even know that I really heard about it. I mean, I guess I knew there was a volcano here. But for some reason, this sunrise hike is the thing. Everybody was bringing up when I first researched Jeju.

So I gots to do it. Oh shit, there's the bus. Let's go then. Bus time.

All right. Cian San is the name of this island, this peninsula, this fucking sunrise mountain. Although, yeah, no sunrise for me. It's almost 3.30. I think I like sea-arized earlier in this trip that like, no bus ride could possibly take more than an hour. But my bus ride, the first bus ride I ever took from the fucking airport took more than an hour. So what the fuck was I talking about? I'm up to a solid, you know, I think it's safe to assume 90 minutes for these trips at this point. And I was looking into while I was on the bus. It's like, yeah, I'll risk a little motion sickness to get something useful done on the bus. I was researching dentists a bit because I'm still in that awkward spot where I didn't manage to see a dentist while I was in Busan. And then as soon as I got to Jeju, I got sick. So I was like, okay, I don't want to go to the dentist. Now things are free and clear, but it's still. Now that's the stress of like, yeah, but I mean, whoo. You know, this is not the dental emergency that I feared it was. I could put it off.

And there's a lot of good to putting things off because then you don't want it to go to the fucking dentist. But obviously in the long term, that's not a good idea. So I did some dentist research. I just clicked on all the little dentists, but all I'm really going by is just on Google Maps. If the business has no English in its name or description and none of the reviews are in English, probably, you know, that'll be a situation where I'm sure I could do it. But I'd have to Google translate and stuff. You know, probably not the best idea if I don't have to do that. So in Jeju City, I found two dentists that distinctly have English reviews and it says that they speak English. One of them has his reviews or a little muddled. The other one seems fine. But even the most direct bus route to get there is a bit over an hour. And I got to hike all the way across Seguapo to catch it. So yeah, again, 90 minutes if not two hours to get across the island. Still really not bad. But it is a little bigger than I thought. Anyway, in this case, I took the bus a few stops ahead of where I technically stopped. Hey, the horses. I smelled them before I saw them. I smelled that telltale farm manure and looked over and there's some horses.

Brown horses in a farm. Not running free across the island. But yeah, I skipped ahead a bit. So maybe I'll go back and fill in that gap. We'll see. But I got out of the bus and started walking and there's the island. There's Seong-san. So much closer up. Although I still, I got to walk across a beach or like a sand bar that connects to this thing.

It probably is still a little further than I think. But anyway, it's very pretty, very fucking pretty. Really like this thing. And there's a Starbucks on the way. Lucky there. Good old tourism, man. And it's also just a little bit cloudy today. And man, it makes such a big difference. I almost wish I hadn't read. The website I found that was like the English guide to walking this Ole trail around Jeju Island. And were they so strongly recommended? Don't do this in June, July and August. And that's basically now. It's right at the end of May. But I mean, I was already feeling it. I've been mentioning the heat. It's been coming up. And just to see that confirmed, that's not just a me thing. I'm not just bad with heat. That guy was extremely emphatic. I've like, this is not a fun thing to do in the summer. And I wish I hadn't seen that, you know? And maybe I'd just be like, oh well, it's just hot, it's summer, whatever. It's weird to know that I'm distinctly doing the wrong thing. I'm doing the stupid thing that you're not supposed to do. There's more horses.

There's a black horse and a white and brown horse that actually kind of has the coloring of like a cow, but it's a horse. Yeah, just people being trotted around. Apparently they do tourism horse stuff around here.

I want to keep walking the fucking Ole trail. And if I'm here at the wrong time of year, whoops, oh well.

And again, it's all relative, you know? I mean, the heat, it is brutal. But the pollution is better this time of year. It's even below 50 today. It's just below. It's in the green. Whereas, specifically when things were awful, like when the over 200 thing hit in Busan, I saw somebody post at that time that was here on Jeju. It was obviously the same type of shit going on here. This specific walk that I'm heading to right now, that's not a huge deal. You know, it's less than 200 meters. I mean, I'm looking at it. It's very cool, but not like severe. But I remember that person saying, again, I heard about this sunrise rock before I got here, that him and his girlfriend turned back. They didn't even make it to the top because the pollution was so bad. So, you know, it's all swings and roundabouts. It's all trade-offs. The heat is fucking brutal. But what I prefer the heat or the pollution, you know? I think heat's got to be better.

I just got to find work around. But all right, I'm going to continue my trek toward the cool mountain.

All right, I made it. I've just started going up the trail and already even the view behind me is really good. Just seeing Jeju behind me.

Wow, the volcano really is fucking huge. It's hidden behind some clouds today. I can barely see it.

But I can see the rest of the island. There's another pretty big mountain that I assume is on my way if I keep going around the island.

So I guess I got at least one more mountain. Probably a bunch in my future. But actually, well, maybe not a bunch because there's just really not that many by the seaside. They're all further in. But this one I'm looking at, I think, is coming up soon. But not today. So, for today, the bus did go closer to this mountain. And I was just going to, I don't know, it's weird. We're like the 201. It splits into two lines, one that goes near here and one that doesn't. So I wasn't sure I was just going to let it go wherever and if it didn't go this way, I was going to get off. But it stopped right there, right before the split off. And the bus driver got out to take a break, I assume.

So I just got out there as well. But I think that worked out for the best because walking along the sand bar toward this mountain, I think is worth it.

Just seeing it loom in the distance is really cool because even now that I'm on it and I'm on the way up, you know, it's that classic thing of when you're actually on something, you know, obviously you can't see it as well. You're just on it.

Seeing it looming in the distance as I walked along the beach was really cool. Definitely a worthwhile part of the experience.

And wherever trail one of the Ole trail winged its way off to, it's back. I saw the ribbons on the way.

The ribbons would have guided me here as well. And then when I got here, lots of tourist buses, it's really busy. It reminds me a lot of Desaifu in Fukuoka, is the feeling, is the vibe. Like a lot of people here, I'm really surprised.

Tons of tour buses drop in people off, which is similar, I guess, to the waterfall. These tour buses obviously, they know the key spots. And I think probably not coincidentally, these are also the places where they charge you for a ticket.

Though there is a free trail here, you can go one way to the right for the paid trail, to the left for the free trail. But the paid trail is the summit trail, so I assume the free one doesn't go all the way to the top. So I mean, it's five bucks. I just paid the five bucks, because you know, came all the way here. Got to do it once. But it's cool that there is a free trail, because I figured like if I ever did come back.

Around these parts, and I don't feel like spending the five bucks again, it's nice that there's another option. It's kind of nice, too, having cash. I stopped at a convenience store, just bought some energy bars, some granola bars and stuff.

And happened to get a $5,000 bill back in my change. And this one costs $5,000. And it's just so nice to not have to go through the machine and use your card. I mean, you can do that. But just handing over the five bucks, or at the waterfalls, just handing them a couple of ones. It's kind of neat, because especially once COVID hit in North America, I only ever used the card, you know. I don't think I used cash. I don't know if I even used it once. In the last like three years, I was in Canada.

I was already going that way, and then with COVID, it's like, no, the fucking thank you, no money, please. It's kind of neat, just to hand somebody a nice bill. I guess it's awkward to in Canada, because taxes and stuff, everything comes out to a weird amount.

Here, it's pretty even.

And if I do get some little coins, I just save up until I got five of them, and I buy one of those 50 cent coffees.

It's nice.

The coins don't build up like they did in Japan, because Japan has much smaller coins, and it's just a pain to get rid of them. Here, I did get a five cent coin once, but only once. Generally, it's 10 cents or 50 cents.

One nice thing too, I mean, if five bucks arguably is kind of a lot, but, you know, it's not like I'm going to do this every day.

And, you know, it's just nice that there's washrooms and stuff along these stairs going up. I've been sticking with my idea of not eating a big meal before I go out and adventure.

It's work on that Canadian draw.

Before I go out on adventure, and it does seem like the best bet.

Just have a little granola bar too, it's fine.

But, I never heard stab washrooms around. I'd still rather have them than not.

But all right, I'm trying to talk while I walk up stairs. I think I saw one of the reviews. This is the equivalent of 40 flights. Not that bad, but a lot easier when I'm not trying to talk. So, let's stop.


This is pretty freaking nice. But, man, one thing that's kind of ironic is I'm at the top, and the view from behind, looking back at the city, is the best view. Because ahead, you know, it's just the ocean. There's nothing out there. But, yeah, this is cool. And, yeah, you really can tell that five bucks is a bit of a steep price. I wonder if maybe if they just charged two of people would just do it. Because it seemed like everybody was going to see the waterfalls. No question. Well, suppose this also is a hike up. There's probably just people that don't want to do that. But, yeah, there was a ton of people at the bottom, mountains of them. If I look down right now, 1-3-4-5-6, you can see at least six big tour buses there right now. But, there's almost nobody up here. There's like a dozen, 15 people, maybe. Who actually laid out the five dollars? But, yeah, actually, I'm a little surprised. On the way up, was better. I kept looking behind me and taking pictures and being like, whoa, but I'm surely I'm just not at the, I'm not even at the main event. Why am I taking pictures of this? But, yeah, actually, that is the main event. The view of the city of Jeju behind you. That's the stuff. I mean, people are taking pictures of the ocean. But, I mean, there's nothing out there. It's literally just ocean.


Well, one thing with spending five bucks is I've been up here on the summit for, you know, 20 minutes or so. So, I'm like, I should soak it in. You know, I shouldn't just zip on by. I should absorb it. But, that one, that was Japanese, right? Totally sounds like it. I'll get back to the speakers in a moment. But, yeah, that is one thing with, it's very, at the very summit, for example, in some of these other look-out parts. It is pretty steep up here. And my fear of heights started to twinge in just a little. Just a teeny bit, tell me. And this view is really good. I'm just starting to head down now. Fuck that view of the city. It's so good. But, yeah, I thought maybe I'd just sit up here and do some writing or something, you know, just, well, again, because I spent five bucks, it's kind of a good, it sort of pushes you to soak it in, even if it is by doing writing on your smartphone. But, then, not focusing on the horizon or what's around to me, made me weirdly more aware of the height. Started to, just started to feel queasy and weird. So, I'm just going to head down. And then, I think I am going to just walk back. I'm going to go loop back around the area of the shore that I missed. And then, from here on in, I'll just start from here and continue on. And, yeah, there's definitely, it's definitely a small mountain coming up. That seems very interesting. I wonder if the coastal trail, the Ola trail will lead me up there.

But, yeah, also, I guess, one reason not to just hang around is those speakers. It definitely, like, I'm pretty sure that was Japanese. And I heard something that sounded like Chinese, but, you know, I can't say for sure. But, I mean, this is super touristy. So, it would make sense. Oh, there it is again. Yeah, like, these speakers are all over the place. And, the one language I didn't hear is English. So, I don't even know. Like, what are they saying? I assume it's like, you know, there's little plaques up here about, well, I saw one about, as you look out at the volcano. It's got the history of the volcano first erupted 1.8 million years ago. Yeah, diata. So, maybe these, uh, voice things are like a history of this rock, although suddenly it just occurs to me. You know, this is the land of CCTV. I bet your dollars to Donuts. They're saying, like, don't go over the fence. I know you can see some paths out there. I know someone's been out there, but don't do it. Don't go walk on the actual thing is probably all they're saying. But, yeah, none of it's in English, even though I saw quite a few European-E folks up here. I'd say at least, at least six or seven of the 15 people. It was a pretty good mix of, uh, non-Asian folk, more than I usually see, but no English. So, anyway, but it's another reason not to hang around, maybe. This hurts the natural beauty a little when there's, uh, speakers blaring at you all the time. So, I don't know. This is weird. I mean, I, I don't know. It's not worth $5. I guess. It's really not. Once you get out there, it's just a little thing. But then also looking out at this view, I mean, it's such a good view of the city. So, it's not and it is. I wouldn't go again. It's certainly not worth doing twice. It's not that fucking great. You know, I've seen these amazing views all over the place. They're just, Asia's full of them. Just anywhere you go. This is no different than any other mountain that you might see a super cool view from. It's just this one happens to have steps built into it and they, uh, took it, but this is an enterprising mountain. But, yeah, so that being said, it's probably not worth $5, but I'd still say, hey, you might as well. Fuck it. You know, if you do come out here, I think I just won't spend the $5. I don't know what the free trail is, but, but what's $5 in the grand scheme of things? What are the chances that on the last day of your life, you're going to run into a snag where you're like, oh, if only I had five more dollars. I could have got. I wanted them to drop a bunch of balloons on my hospital bed at the moment of my death, but I was $5 short to fill the entire room with balloons.

Like, I don't know. It's five bucks, whatever. Man, in other news, walking in the rain the other day, man, it made all of my stuff so gross. You know, at least my normal clothes, I can just host them in the laundry. But, man, I could go for one of those, those special shoe washing machines in Japan that I saw all over and I never got a chance to use one. Because in South Korea, you're lucky if you can find laundry machines at all. And all the ones that I found around here distinctly say, do not put your shoes in here. So, I don't know, I can't clean my shoes properly. And they just, you know, after I got them all wet, they just have that gross smell of like, I bought a whole bottle of, I couldn't find any just like, baking soda stuff. I bought a whole bottle of like Fabriz type stuff and it's like the solution is worse than the problem. That stuff smells awful in its own, but it's sprayed down my boots as much as I could, changed out all the insoles and stuff. But yeah, they're not, they're not quite lemony fresh.

And it's a knee brace that I wear. It's just, you know, like an elastic brace. At least once I do laundry next time, at least that can go in the laundry. But as it stands, I mean, it's under my jeans, no one can smell it. But when I take it off, it smells like a fucking barnyard. It's like bull. Once, once you spend a day walking through the rain, whatever particular bacteria is growing on you, they fucking, they're sick, they smell terrible.

All right, well, we finally get some English. Was that all that it was saying? The lockers at the bottom are open till 5.30 pm. If you're using the locker, please come open the locker by 5.30 pm. Who the fuck cares? Why the hell? What? That offends me. Why would you fucking speakers all over the mountain? See, this is where I'm really starting to, and now I'm starting to think maybe it's not worth 5 bucks. Because like I was saying, this view is, you know, you can get this view anywhere. You can get this view on any mountain. There's mountains everywhere in Asia. And why would you do that? That is not an important message. That is not, it is not necessary to blanket. I mean, sound pollution is pollution. If I, anywhere else that I go, I can't think, actually, it's very unusual. I can't think of any other spots that I've been in South Korea where they just are blaring stuff out of speakers. This is the only one, and that's the message. That's the fucking message. The lockers are only open till 5.30. Who the fuck cares? Who the fuck is putting their shit in a locker at the bottom? That's got to be, I mean, there's not that many people coming up here anyway. How many people could possibly be putting their shit in a locker, and they just need to know, I mean, okay, to be fair, they have to be fair. It must be nearly 5.30 right now. Let me check. Yeah, it's 505. Surely to Christ, there's other messages. Surely there's something. Anyway. Yeah, I don't know. Bring some headphones. Listen to some music, because yeah, what a fucking weird thing to do. Why the fuck? Why are there speakers everywhere? I don't want to prove of that at all. Well, there's more horses here too. I saw a speaking of my knee brace smelling like a barn from the top. I saw some more horses. I'm like, oh, look at that. So yeah, you can get some horses around here and trot around at the base of the mountain. So I guess, yeah, I don't know at the end of the day, I guess. The view is undeniably awesome. That's a super awesome view. How much is that worth the, that's all, I guess. Again, it's $5. Who cares? Why bother debating it? Just fucking do it. But there's some certain suspect things around here, and those speakers are number one


on the list. So the free trail is actually pretty nice as well. It's kind of cool how they have it set up. As you go down the paid trail, it's just head straight into the free trail. And the free trail, yeah, you just get to walk around the side of the mountain, which is like kind of good in a way, because like I was saying, the view approaching the mountain is a lot cooler than being on the actual mountain. And then of course, the view at the top of the mountain is good. But seeing the side of the mountain is also really good. And now I'm down on a little beach. There's like a little seafood restaurant or something down here. There's just this little cove next to the mountain. And just seeing the sheer rock. I'm sure this is why all the signs at the top and possibly audio, that you know, say don't cross over the fences. This is why. Man, if you fell down that thing, that is a 180 meters down an extremely steep rock cliff side. You would be fucking dead for sure.

Yeah, this is pretty. I'd say this is equally as pretty in a different way. It's cool to be up there and to see the view out across Jeju. But now I'm just down in a cove and I'm looking up at the mountain. And then behind me, it's not as steep, but it's just really nice. What a cozy little cove is fucking cool. And notably, there's no speakers down here. Why do you have to spend money to get blared at? I don't understand that at all, man. I do not understand. So I think, I think I guess how I was saying like, I don't know, five dollars seems like a lot, but hey, why not? And the view's good. I think in the end, I guess I would come right in the middle of it's strange that this is not two dollars. I feel like those, I mean, maybe also with the waterfalls, it's because they know that there's two waterfalls really near each other that are each two dollars. So, you know, you go to both, you spend two bucks each, you're basically spending the same amount. But you can do get to see two waterfalls. Like they really seem to have it nailed with those waterfalls. Everybody went to the waterfall. Everyone who got off of the the tourbusters, they all went down to the waterfalls. Like there was a lot of people way more. So I really wonder here, like charging five. I wonder if it's worth it. Like if you charge two dollars and you got all of these people that are coming here to the free trail. I mean, you just heard those people cheering.

There's just a lot more people doing the free thing. So I mean, if you got more than double the people to go up at two bucks, then you're laughing. And it just feels good. Two dollars feels good. Two dollars feels like I'm kind of glad to spend two dollars to help, you know, keep this place going. This is fucking red shit. Five dollars doesn't feel that way. Five dollars is like, that was five dollars for a little walk up there. Come on. What the fuck?

But again, who the shit cares? Five fucking dollars. It's certainly not worth haranging about. The convenience store today, all I bought was it's kind of hard to find granola bars that don't have chocolate on them at this this heat level. I would prefer not. But I got the buy two get one free with chocolate. But then I also got buy two get one free. The smaller crappier ones, just because they didn't have chocolate. So everything I have won't be a melty mess today. So four energy bars plus two free ones. A can of coffee. A melon ice cream bar. Was that it?

Yeah. Yeah, and anyway, that was $17. So whatever. Yeah. Five bucks or cares. But if I was running the place, yeah, I think I would have done two and just tried to be a little more aggressive about making sure everybody pays the two instead of just an occasional person paying the five.

Go talk to those people who run the fucking waterfalls. They got it down. They know what's going on.

And yeah, get rid of the speakers. What the shit is that? I'm sure somebody thought that was a good idea. And then once it's set up, it's like, well, fuck, now we spend all this money on speakers. I guess we got to use them. But that's bizarre. Do not apply noise pollution to your beautiful natural resource, your tourism gold mine. But yeah, this free path is easily in a different way, easily as nice. And I guess you put them together. I mean, I should look at it that way. If I put them together, it's like I paid 250 for each one. I don't know.


What are we going to do? Boy, I'll say one thing. Prepare to be constantly getting in the way of people taking pictures. That was one nice thing about the $5 rat without that many people. There were still people taking pictures and stuff, but man on the free side. Who doggie? And I mean, I think in general people prefer to just be in their own pictures, you know? But yeah, just so many. It's like that times, too, in Korea. It's everybody needs to be in the picture doing a pose, you know? Just piles of people taking pictures of each other.

Maybe I'd be in more of my own pictures if I, you know, got face-app or whatever. Give myself a little tweak. Make myself cuter. But anyway, now I'm back on the beach. Behind me is the Siyeon-san. Still looks awesome as ever. It looks so awesome from a distance. It looks better from a distance than it does when you're there for sure. But pretty cool. Pretty cool all-in-all.

Be as I'm walking, I'm walking along the shore, going to loop down around to the area I missed. Aqua Planet, Jeju.

See up, Gikoji. It's like 6.30. This should work out pretty good. It is getting dark. But by the time I get around this loop, I mean, it actually might get dark while I'm doing this loop. It could take longer than I think. It's all civilization. It should be no problem. And then make it back to the same bus that I escaped from last time.

So in a way, I've made no progress. But I think this was an important little loop to come check out. But yet, it's raining a little bit.

I was just thinking about all my poor boots. They are just destined to be wet and gross. But luckily, I mean, all I do is I go outside and I just fucking walk. I don't even go to coffee shops and stuff. I'm either in my little hotel room or I'm just outside walking around. So the fact that my boots are getting a little stinky probably does not fucking matter that much. But at some point, you know, it's sad when you just gotta give up when your new boots ain't new no more. And you gotta accept the fact that they are boot smelling now. Now they smell like a boot. For once, that's not a Canadian accent. I'm actually talking about a boot.

But I saw a guy going down this beach on a horse. So I don't know if he was part of these places that rent the horses. All the other people I saw, they were like being led around and they seemed like they were being pretty contained. This guy was just running wild and free on the fucking shore. So maybe it's just like, I don't know how horse stuff works. Maybe you can rent a horse and show that you're an experienced horseman and they'll let you just wander off with the horse. But it was cool. It was like planted at the apes. Oh shit, space balls. That goes the planet. You know, just some guy on a fucking horse going along the beach. It was cool.


What the fuck? So there's times when there's inadvertent foreshadowing on this podcast. Like I'll just say something and then I don't know something will happen later that is like, oh weird that I mentioned that. So I made a joke earlier about the horses. Like, ah, you know, the horses are not running wild and free across Jeju.

But as I walk around this particular little inlet, I'm just like past the aquarium now. And you know, I'm just walking around the outside and you can see, see on saying sort of to the side. Every time I look, you know, to the side, I see it and I'm like, yeah, that's pretty. It's kind of worth it just for that. And then there's just horses. Like a bunch of them. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight.

At least eight horses. And they're not fenced in at all. There's like a tiny little rope that is just kind of laying on the ground. It's not stopping anything. There might be like a little ditch at certain points. But essentially the horses are just here. That's fucking, that's weird as hell, man. That did not expect to happen. 0% expected to see functionally wild horses just on the fucking. I mean, they're obviously not wild. They're super domesticated. I don't know. It's just weird. It's just weird.

You know, there must be, I'm sure they're just trained to live around here to be cool. Just like they don't want to leave, I guess. But there's nothing technically stopping them. They could just leave. That's fucking weird as shit. That's awesome. Man.

And yeah, this walk itself, it is kind of funny to get to the bottle neck at the start and see the little beach and just be like, yeah, this is where I'm coming back to. You know, I'm just going to walk around this area and I'm coming right back to here and then I got to walk along that beach to get to the bus stop. Totally pointless, but isn't this whole walk totally pointless? You know, it's just a whole big circle around Jeju. So this is just a little or version of that. This is just a little, a little journey that takes a couple hours.

If the whole project in general, and I mean you could even explode it out more than that, forget Jeju, all I'm doing is circle in the earth for no reason.

So it's just circles within circles within circles. But it's pretty nice. Started off all developed within Aquarium and stuff. And now I'm just on the shore with the big volcanic rocks and the creepy little sea bugs, scary in a way.

And getting gently rained on, but that's not so bad. Keeps it from getting too hot.


Holy fuck, what is this place, man? What is going on here? So this is called Sayap Jikouji, S-E-O-P-J-I-K-O-J-I. And it's just another little peninsula, you know, just south of Sayon saying where I was before. And yeah, I thought this was totally optional. Like, I'll just go check that out, whatever. What a random little thing, like I could easily skip to buy it. I kind of did skip by it and I'm deliberately looping back. You know, it's just like, you know, I don't need to keep sallying for if I got such a long ways to go to get around Jeju, like what's the hurry? And you know, it's just the kind of thing that would stick in my mind. You know, what if I go all the way back to Canada and I'm thinking back to Jeju and I'd be like, what about that one little part? I didn't go to. Then I'd be like, ah, shit, well now I got to go back to Jeju someday just to do that, you know? So I'll just do it today. Just take care of my fucking exploratory OCD. This place is fucking beautiful. Again, like I was saying before, how the two parts, the going up or going down, at Sayon's song are both kind of equally beautiful in different ways. I'd say the same thing here. This little peninsula in its own way is easily as beautiful, easily as good. Now that I'm on the back side, specifically at the Sayob Jikouji part, with its little photo icon on Google Maps, they're not fucking kidding. There's the lighthouse is here and I'm by a place right now that kind of has the vibe of a church, but now that I'm looking at it closer, it's like a gingerbread house. It's got like a heart. I guess there's no specifically candy stuff, but it just gives me a candy vibe. Like a heart and these little colored dollops. Okay, yeah, it must be a candy thing. It's not just me. Because those look kind of like gum drops and then this other heart just has streaks on it, kind of like chocolate. Now let's see if I can sneak around the side. What the fuck is this? Anyway, like the cliff sides at the back are beautiful. All these beautiful cliffs and seasides and these weird buildings and houses. But also the horses. The horses are all over the fucking place.

Okay, yeah. This building is actually open, but inside it is a shit show and it's got a little chain of like don't come in. But in here is like an old kind of toy sort of looks like a my little pony. Like a winged pony toy that's like a five or six year old could sit on it and take a picture, but it's obviously all old. And there's these things. They look kind of like candy canes, but they're like shaped like a cone. Anyway, whatever was going on in here, it has long since been abandoned. Oh yeah, and at the front, what is this? It's like a little amphitheater. Oh, here we go. Now it's very clear. There's actual gingerbread people. So this was intended to be like a gingerbread house. But it's in total disrepair. It's just fallen apart. That's creepy as fuck. What is going on with this? Keep out. Yeah, no problem. Nothing in there anyway. And yeah, like I guess maybe they used to do like performances or something here. But anyway, yeah, those horses. That was not a coincidence. There's fucking horses everywhere all over the fucking place. There's one right there. It's weird in me out almost. Like I think I'm not going to cut down through this dilapidated fucking orphium part. Because I don't know how to get out of here without getting near the horse. I don't want to fuck with the horses. This place is amazing, dude. This is very much recommended. You totally got to come here. This might even be better. Man, so cool. What the fuck? I love just going to random places, especially, dude. When you have like no expectation. Like I was saying before when I was at the entrance road where it's just the very narrow part. Where it's like the narrowest section of land connecting this to the mainland. Where it's like, okay, there's the ocean on this side. There's the ocean on that side. I'm just on my way right back here. I'm just going to walk the loop and come back to here. And it feels especially non-pointing. Non-pointed, you know, at least these other things. They're like, well, I'm salying forth. I'm going forth further on the adventure. Where this one really felt like, like, yeah, there's probably nothing here. You know, aquariums and houses. I don't know what the fuck it is.

I just literally not in a million years. Would I have guessed?

I mean, here's like a cake. I mean, this whole thing is just weird. The abandoned gingerbread house. I don't know what the fuck that's all about. I mean, there's a lot of places. Like, that's bringing me back to, uh, in Seoul. Once I got up to Buchanan, and there were all the, uh, the wild dogs up there. Where things just didn't quite feel real. Where it's like, man, I was just on the subway in this shitball city. That's all fucking crowded and filthy. How did I just go on the subway? And then go for a short hike. And now I'm up in these majestic mountains. In like ancient fucking temples with snow dogs. You know, how is this real? How is this not some fucked up VR simulation? And I haven't really felt anything that distinctly fucking weird and super bizarre since then. Until now, until I got here. Oh, and of course, there's some people that I'm walking in. Even though the sun's going down, it's almost dark. The last two people I can see in my vision. Of course, it's a girl in a short dress posing for pictures. Of course it is. I'll just hold on for a bit because I don't want to go get in their way. Gotta take your photos. Gotta get your insta-shots. But anyway, these horses. Like, hey, horse, you're right there. Just hanging out. That's a wild.

Okay, she ran over to check on her picture, her photo. I don't know. I guess I just got a walk. I got no choice. Gotta go walk past the photo. Okay, they're taking a break. They see how nice of them. Lord knows when there's a lot of people taking photos. They are not shy, but I guess when they're the only two, maybe they're realizing a little like, we're actually kind of fucking shit up here.

Yeah, this place is fucking magical.

Just this coastline and the shore. Fucking shit.

Man, that's one nice thing about modern tech. As I noticed, you know, I almost never take video, but that I did take a video back in 2019, when I was in Japan, just a little video of how to get to the Aboriyama Kitai Observation Deck from Umebiyashi Station. But I was using like a real cheap phone, and it was such a bad, shaky video. Where I noticed with this, now that I got an actual fancy Google Pixel phone, whatever. Whenever I do take a little video, it's like, no, it's surprisingly stable. It just like must use software to stabilize a little bit, because I don't have a gimbal, but like everything looks pretty good. And I realized it must be using that same tech for pictures. I'm sure this is, again, stuff everybody else probably already knows. But it's very rare for me to take a picture that's blurry, that's almost impossible, but even one that's just a little off. That always used to be so tricky, you know, to really like try to find somewhere to set a phone down, or like I'm a sniper. In the moment before you squeeze the trigger, you got to hold your breath. Learn that from Golgo 13.

But I've realized, like, yeah, this thing is stabilizing the fuck out of my photography. It's a lot better than it has any right to be.

Ah, here's a bench.

Overlooking the shore. This is 10 out of 10. This is insane. This is so beautiful.

All right, well, the sun's not quite down yet. I'm gonna sit on this bench for a moment. Do the little bit of writing that I didn't really do up on the mountain. This is beautiful. Holy shit.

See, up to Koji, fully recommended. 10 thumbs up.

And here's the parking lot and shit. See, if you're a car type person, you can get here too. Yeah, this is a... Yeah, and I'm just looking at the old gingerbread house from a distance. How weird. Like, they must have done like, you know, little performances and stuff for kids. It's funny to just let something like that go.

It seems like, I don't know. Obviously, it's not more work to let it go than it is to maintain it. But like, if it's already there, how much work could it be to keep it maintained? It seems like it's been left for some time. But in its own way, that's cool too. It's like a fucking spooky kids-era dough pat thing, you know?

Just like, spooky old creepy fucking gingerbread candy house. Next to the bluffs, next to the gorgeous cliffs, with just the horses just chilling, just hanging out. How does that happen? Like, is that a deliberate thing? Do you bring in horses just to make this area a cool tourist thing or were they just always here? So they just were like, I don't know. Just build around them. This is fucking incredible, man.


All right, we'll have circled around to the other side of this island where it seems like it's, uh, looks like mainly hotels over here. No more wild horses. The wild horses are definitely on the other side. But yeah, the sun is almost down. I just saw some lights turn on. The second I said that, that's fucking weird. Just walking along next to the water, I can see the whole path. I gotta walk around here. And up around to that beach and around to there, it's gonna take a little while, but I can see the whole route that I gotta take to get back to the main bus line. And man, yeah, I just, I can't quite put my finger on it. Maybe it's the time of day, just this dusk look, and that it's been a little overcast all day. Oh yeah, I didn't, I didn't sit there and write for that long because I kind of forgot, like oh yeah, it's been intermittently raining all day. There's a limit to how long I can sit there, but I sat there for a bit. I did a bit of stuff.

But yeah, this look also, I guess seeing across the water and just seeing in the distance, all the different mountains of Jeju, and I can really just barely see Mount Halasan, the volcano. I can see the tip of it, poking out above some clouds in the distance. It just looks like it's floating. But there's a lot of smaller mountains around here too. And maybe, I don't know, part of it could also be that the air quality was good today, where it's just never quite all the way there. But today it is.

And again, I don't know, for sure how good things really were in Japan. I just assumed they were always great because I didn't know yet that that's something I should have been concerned about. But it's fine today. And yet it's weird, for some reason, all of this, the way it's coming together, it's not really the same. It's a helicopter going by in the distance. But it's reminding me of when I was in Saga, south of Fukuoka, where I went on this big walk to try to get to a waterfall, and I never quite made it because there was a landslide, so I couldn't go. But then I walked back from there, and I just remember distinctly like those fields. Maybe that's part of it. There's a lot of greenery here, even though I'm on the side now with the hotels and stuff. Still just a lot of greenery. And when I'm looking out at the mainland across this water, it's still mainly trees. It's a lot of greenery. But I just remember walking back from there, and just walking through these cool, like, farms and stuff, and then, yeah, kind of eventually got lost. That was a long journey home from there.

But this is reminding me of that day, and it's just a good feeling.

You know, again, that's one of those unfair things that keeps coming into my mind, but the whole time I've been in South Korea, it's weird. It's so nearby, and there's so much similar. But I still get these little, like, a little spring in my step sometimes when I think about Japan, and it'd be so cool to go back. I just have that attachment deep in my brain to Japan.

That feeling just doesn't fire as often in South Korea. But it does right now. Right now, it feels like adventure. I'm really surprised how awesome today has been.

Juju does feel pretty good. I am leaning more and more toward, like, my last bit in South Korea. Am I just going to stay here? Maybe.

I suppose I need to make a choice on that, but it's that awkward thing where I also, I need to plan the whole next thing. I presume I'm going to Taiwan, but I got to decide for sure, and then I got to figure out how I'm getting there. Where am I flying from? Because the flight straight from Juju just doesn't exist. It's like a 21 hour layover nightmare. But if I can just fly back to Busan for $45, and then fly from Busan, why not? But today, and if I am going to fly to Busan, and now maybe it'd be nice to hang out in Busan a little bit more before I go.

So I don't know. I just got to make a choice. I just got to make a decision.

And then from there, do I stay in Saegwapo or do I go try Juju City? I don't know.

I don't know. None of it is clear yet, but I'm going to have to make a choice sooner or later, but anyway for now.

Yeah, I think it's pretty much officially dark now. All the street lights are on.

I got probably a solid 45 minutes ahead of me to get to the bus.

Yeah, this is fucking nice. What a nice day.

All around 10 out of 10, and if you can stop in at a convenience store and get a melon flavored popsicle, you know, melon flavored ice cream bar. I wouldn't tell you not to. Doesn't make the day worse, that's for sure.


Yeah.

Something going on over there. I guess this is at one of the these resort-ass-looking hotels. It's almost like, first I was like, is there an amusement park over there, but I think it's just, I don't know, I think there's lights flashing. I think it's just music party time. I don't quite know, but somebody's having fun over there.

It's funny because I'm like, ah, this place is so great. What a wonderful day. Even though all they did was just walk around and peer it horses and look at cliff sides and just be like, whoa. I didn't have actual fun. Someone over there is having real fun. But you know, to me, fun's not fun. Doing nothing is fun. But if you think fun is fun, apparently there's fun to be had here as well. But alright, thank you for listening. I'll see you next episode as I continue. The circumnavigation of Jeju. Till then, adios.


Alright, this seems like a good opportunity to pop in from the future. Because I just think this is interesting about all the horses on Jeju, where it was this day in particular. It's just cool to listen back to these and be like, oh yeah, remember that place? That place was so cool, so awesome. And all these horses everywhere and just so cool. So I did start to notice as I continued around Jeju. Eventually, I did see some horses that were less free. These horses really did seem to just be wandering freely and it's kind of remarkable that they stay in that area. There must be like low fences or something that I didn't see. But later on, I did see some horses that I noticed were more distinctly tied up, but it's because they were staying like right next to a highway. So they did have, it's kind of weird, like a little rope tied around a horse's leg and then tied to a tree. And it was like a long rope and like whatever, you know, when it wasn't like restrained, but that was a little eerier to see. It's like it looks on the surface like a free horse, but it's not, but that was I think just to keep it from literally wandering into traffic. But then the final thing, just as I was leaving Jeju, it was this YouTube channel, this guy Dan does Korea. That's a Canadian guy who used to live in Korea and it's just one of my favorite little Korea channels. That guy was really cool. I found him because he went to Jeju and one of the very few who went to Jeju. But he went to Jeju. He got brought there by the Jeju Tourism Board and he mentioned that Jeju is the only place in South Korea where it's legal to eat horse. And I was like, what is that so? Is that a thing? Eating horses and sex museums, like there's this weird underbelly to Jeju that I didn't experience that much if at all. And so yeah, I did not, I did not eat any horse while I was there because it's not just something you can just go into the convenience store. You'd have to go to a specific restaurant and that was far beyond my comfort level to go to some restaurant all by myself and try to order horse. And I don't particularly know that I want to eat horse. But I just thought that was interesting that it did change a little, you know, I'm not saying all these horses everywhere. We're just there to be eaten because they did do horse rides and stuff in that very area. There's all kinds of things they do with horses on Jeju. But one of the things they do with horses on Jeju is they serve them in restaurants. So I don't know, I just thought I'd mention that because I'm not going to figure that out for some time. And it does change the tone a little bit of the beautiful wild horses. Oh yeah, okay, that's one reason why. One reason why there seemed to be so many horses all over the place on Jeju. But still cool as hell that there's just horses everywhere on Jeju. All right, that's the update, the horse update. Join me next episode for more Walking Around Jeju.