Roaming Holiday Transcripts

This is an unofficial transcript site for the Roaming Holiday podcast by Keith McNally. All episode titles, descriptions, photos, and videos are the property of the author. About this site

#15 Hiking from Shibuya to Itabashi

1 hour 8 minutes

All transcripts are machine generated.

Transcript

Hmm, test, test, test. How bad is this? This is pretty bad. I was thinking I would not record a podcast while I'm walking today because I've got my book bag in wheel mode because I'm going between Airbnb's. So I don't like the wheel sound. That's generally annoying. However, I'm on a, how many lanes have we got here? One, two, three, oh, only six. A six lane highway that I'm walking down. So that drowns out the wheel noise a little bit. Not really though, I can still hear it. I don't know, my thinking was I would take breaks and stop once in a while and maybe go somewhere quieter and record updates. But now that I'm on this street, I can't figure out the name of the street, unfortunately. It's not in English, but I think I can still situate you to let you know where I am. This is it. This is the street. This is the one I'm just going to walk down for the whole day. So I think this is just going to be a noisy episode. I mean, a lot of the episodes are noisy. That's not new. It's the only problem with outdoor podcasting. This kind of field recording type podcasting is it's a shame about the noise. But what if, actually, I got another idea. Instead of me sort of holding this recorder like I usually do and just talking loud, maybe I'll experiment today with holding the recorder really close to my mouth and talking more quietly. My natural inclination is to yell against the noise, but I'm going to try that. Let's try it out and see how it goes. All right, I got this thing. Well, that's that's really close. How does that sound? Does that feel like it might blow out the mic? Let me turn down. Let me turn down the sensitivity on this bad boy. All right, test, test, test. Let me see. I usually have this set to like an eight. Now I got it set to a five. Let me listen back to this and see how it sounds.

All right, this seems okay. Let's give it a shot. I mean, yeah, I think maybe this will revolutionize my recording in loud environments a little bit, which I thought of this earlier. When I was in Quebec, yeah, this doesn't seem so bad. I mean, I got this mic right in my mouth, though. So we'll see, but I mean, this seems pretty good. I think this is going to work. Nice. So yeah, today is the day that I'm going from my Airbnb sort of near Shinjuku to my Airbnb in Itabashi. And it's always kind of exciting these days when you're switching between Airbnb's. You just leave your life behind. You pack up all your stuff and you just fucking take off and you never have to go back and you just go on to the next place. I guess that's a good indicator of if you enjoy this weird Airbnb travel life is if you like that feeling. The way I kind of like getting lost and just wandering around, one of my friends told me like he's like, I hate that. That's one of my least favorite feelings. So I imagine this might be a thing too. Maybe you don't like the idea of just, you know, like I leave that place behind and I can't even go to the new place until after three o'clock. I'm just an indigent person in the middle, but I think it's just it feels good. I just like leaving behind whatever is going on. You're not beholden to a property. You don't have to deal with whatever's going on there. Whether it was good or whether it was bad, either way, you just move on to the next thing. And in this case, it was kind of bad. I didn't love it. But I figured surely today is the day that I'll have to get on the subway. I haven't taken a subway ride since the first night when I came in from the airport. So I think in maybe I had that thought of Sunshine City in Ikebukaro, the Tully's coffee in there. I could just sit down and it's my laptop and do some stuff for the afternoon. But again, that's just assuming that a store from four years ago is still even open and still even there. And then I started looking at it on the map. I was like, how far is this shit? Because the whole reason I got this place was because the first Airbnb I ever got in Japan was in Naka, Itabashi. That's four stops from Ikebukaro. So that still always kind of feels in a weird way like my home neighborhood just because it was the first place that I lived for like 40 days. And I thought my Airbnb was an hour walk past that, but it's only half an hour. It's not that far. And the whole thing, if I was to walk it, is 16 kilometers. And I've been experimenting with distances trying to internalize what they mean lately. And that's thinking like that's not so crazy. That's pretty normal. I've had a bunch of days where I've walked that far. If you count how far I walked and then had to walk back a couple of days, I went further than that. So it's like four hours, a little under four. But yeah, I mean, that's what I've been doing every day. Anyways, just walking around. And this is the added bonus of I don't have to go back. I just walk from one place to the other place. And that's the day. And that's kind of like my dream. I remember I was talking to my friend Brad about how, if I just, if money was no object, my favorite thing would be to get two Airbnb's in Tokyo, one on either end. You know, one east of the Samita River somewhere for the Arakawa River and one way out west. And I could just travel back and forth between them and just ramble my way across Tokyo back and forth each day. So I'd only be at each one each second day. That would be so cool because having to go back is the awkward part of a journey.

So I was thinking today I could do that. I mean, I got to do something all afternoon, even if I went and did the, uh, sitting at the Tully's thing realistically. I'm going to sit there for like an hour. It's probably as long as I can sit in the coffee shop before my poor body starts to hurt.

So I figured, fuck it, let's do it. I mean, I can bail out if I have to. It's only I love about hiking. I'll speak kind of hiking. So I was saying how I was watching hiking stuff on YouTube. And I liked this term somebody mentioned of type one fun and type two fun. And type one fun is just fun. Whatever that is, whatever people consider fun. I don't know, maybe you're being showered and gold de bloons and you have a nice umbrella so they don't hurt you. Whatever. It's just fun in the moment. And type two fun is the stuff that's not actually that fun. Necessarily, you know, a tough hike and rough conditions. But you know, it'll be fun later. Later on, you'll be glad you did it. Later on, you'll feel good that you did it. That's type two fun. So I was like, well, you know, yeah, this is a pretty nuts walk all the way across Tokyo. But I've done walks like this before I walked from UK Booker O to the Skytree and back. And that was fucking insane. But that's one of my more enduring memories. And yeah, in this case, again, I don't even have to go back. I just have to go. The main downside is since it's Airbnb transfer day, I've got all of my stuff. Including just because my bag is so packed full of things, I'm also wearing two pairs of jeans. I'm wearing both my jeans because that's the only good way for me to transport both my pairs of jeans. And I didn't check the temperature before I left, but this has got to be the hottest day yet. It's got to be over 20 degrees. It is so hot. I had to wear one of my hoodies like a shawl just to protect my neck so I don't get sunburned on my poor little skin.

Geez, this isn't even so bad, really. I guess the noise comes and goes, but even if I wasn't recording it sort of reduced sensitivity, I still feel like this noise is not that bad. But yeah, that's where this is like hiking, but it's like level, I mean, whatever the easiest most beginner hike is, hiking through a city is way easier than that. Like what if you're just not ready to hike at all, as I'm not. There's no shame in that. You got to start somewhere, you know, to build up your abilities, to build up your strength. If you push yourself too hard, right away, you'll just fail, you'll just collapse, you'll hurt yourself. So this is still kind of like hiking. It's like I'm hiking all afternoon, except it's flat ground. I don't have to carry this bag, I just have to put it on its wheels, which is gonna get me eventually. By the end of the day, my shoulders are gonna hurt, but not like carrying it. Rolling it at full weight is still not remotely as bad as carrying it with just a book bag and some stuff in it. That was just lifting the thing physically is the worst. I can't believe I wore this thing for that whole podcast that I was walking from the airport in Montreal. I was like 90 minutes I had this thing on. That's fucking crazy. But right now I'm feeling good. I think taking two days off from hiking around with a book bag, maybe my muscles finally are bouncing back a little. I feel pretty decent.

But yeah, not only can I roll the bag the whole time, I can bail out anytime. There's still subways everywhere. If something goes horribly wrong, I don't have to stick with this. So yeah, all this stuff you could never do, even on the easiest hike. You can't roll a bag in the woods. You can't bail out. But here you can. So I don't know, I guess if if hiking was one to ten, one being easy, ten being hard, this isn't even level zero, this is level minus one, this is so easy. But that's fine, I'll take it. And I found pretty quickly. I don't know, by the time I was the fifth of the way, maybe. It wasn't even seeming like type two fun, even though the sun was beating down on me and it's trying not to get burned and whatever. You just kind of get into the flow of it. It's like, yeah, this is all right. And then where it really turned around, that's where I don't know what the highway is called that I'm on. But I got to this place called Opera City. It's kind of like a mall, but it has theaters and oh, there's a shrine. Of course, why wouldn't there be? Why wouldn't there be a shrine by the six lane highway? This country is so weird and awesome. This shrine has like dog statues.

The shrine next to the 7-Eleven, next to the mega highway. Why not? The Opera City was weird. It had a theater and it had rehearsal rooms and all this stuff. And some shops, I was thinking I should just hang out there for a bit. Maybe get something to eat, but the mall part of the mall was pretty scanned because that's the other thing I noticed is I was feeling real hungry earlier. Now it's somewhere between noon and one. I was feeling real hungry and my mind was coated with images of ramen or really extravagant nonsense like the custard cream puffs or the chocolate it clears from the convenience stores. All this shit. But you just keep walking for half an hour and now I don't feel hungry anymore. And I think that's good. I think it's good that I try to make this journey on an empty stomach. So let's rewind and I'll tell you why, but if you heard last episode, which for me was yesterday, pretty much the harbinger of doom I put right at the end of the episode. Where last night I went to a Lawson's and there were these like little chicken ball things, little chicken carage, deep fried chicken balls. I got some at noon and I was like wow those are great.

And then at about 6 p.m. I was at a different Lawson's and I saw them again but they were in a different part of the store. They were up at the front in like a heat lamp area. But I've never gotten anything out of there before and it turns out it's not really a heat lamp. It's a very mild warming lamp and because I'm in a literate fool when the lady asked if I wanted to have them heated up in the microwave. I thought she was asking if I wanted a plastic bag and I was like no I'm good. So she gave me these very lukewarm chicken balls that had been sitting there all afternoon and that is the danger zone. For bacteria you want things to be hot or you want them to be cold. This is a neat thing I learned my brief time in the restaurant industry where I was mainly a dishwasher. They started moving me up to prep cook and that was supposed to be a step up and I realized how much I hated it and I was like I got to get out of here. I thought maybe if I just toughed it out through the dishwasher and I'd get to something I liked better but I liked it maybe less. Because at least dish washing was miserable as that was at least I could just my own business. But one of the things they did at this restaurant because they have to make great big huge amounts of stuff is when you make a great big vat of soup and you want to chill it you know put it in the fridge. I just thought this was an interesting thing. If you just put it in the fridge it's going to stay hot in the middle for hours and hours and hours the outside of it will get cold but you just won't get to the inside. So what they had were you know like ice packs that you put in the freezer and then you take them out and put them on your sore muscles or whatever they had like an ore like a big giant stir stick that was an ice pack and they would use that to stir the soup so that it would cool down throughout the soup in the middle. And I was like wow that's so neat you know it's all a pretty obvious operation when you know about it but I would never have guessed it just wouldn't never cross your mind if you're not part of that part of that little world. Oh yeah the other thing that makes this like hiking before you get back to the Karage story is I had the sun beaten down on me when I was in the quieter parts of town with the smaller buildings. Once I got to this major street the one that opera city is on the buildings have shaped so I don't have to worry as much about getting sunburns so it's like going into the trees but it's buildings and also the sidewalks are really wide and the number of bicycles is reduced by like 90 percent. So oh and I saw a highway sign that said Itabashi that's what I knew I was you know about a fifth of the way when I saw this but that's when I knew like awesome like when the highway signs start pointing you to where you're going you're good you can just follow those. I might not even need the map and in fact I believe this is going to take me too oh yeah my road and Naka Itabashi I'm my way my old neighborhood.

Yeah this is a pretty delightful I'm pretty delightful little walk. Yeah this couldn't have come at a better time I was very ready to get out of that Airbnb and pretty ready to get out of that neighborhood too because even this yeah like I like this better even though this is technically a bigger crazier neighborhood with all the businessy stuff going on in huge buildings it feels calmer because there's giant wide sidewalks next to the super street.

Everything's not as packed in.

But anyway, I ate these lukewarm chicken balls and it wasn't until I was like 75% of the way through them that I started getting this feeling, you know, just the, uh, when you can taste the grease they were cooked in. Because, you know, if it's like all hot, you wouldn't really notice. When it's a little cold and you can taste the flavor of the grease and it's like this is not good. This is not good. I shouldn't have done this.

They were almost done, so I just ate them like whatever. Here's open. So then this morning I woke up nice and early. I got up an hour earlier than I was gonna, like two hours before I had to get out of this Airbnb. And that was nice. Everyone else was still asleep. I'm glad I got up extra early because it's just, I just love when I've got time and you can just take your time. So I just took my time getting all my stuff ready. Nobody else was around in the Airbnb. And then, this is pretty dumb, but they have a little lost and found saying of just stuff other people left. And there was this bag of this stuff called blendy that had been there for a couple of days. So it's like, okay, whoever left those is not coming back for them. They're like little, uh, like little creamer containers, but they have coffee in them. And I was looking at the package trying to figure out. I assumed maybe the coffee stuff was sweet because, uh, 7-11 in North America used to have that. I don't know if they still do. But they had these little like flavored espresso creamers. So on top of your flavored cream that you would put in your coffee, you can get extra caffeine as well. I don't know if they still do that. It's pretty insane. I thought these were like that. And because of the beauty of Japan, there are two drink machines right outside the building that I was in. So it's so cool. You can just just go right outside your door and just get whatever you want from the machine. So I was just going to get one little can of coffee just to fuel me as I packed all my stuff up.

But since there were these blendy things that I assumed were sweet, I got a black coffee. And then I went into the little kitchen, which I hadn't really used at all at this Airbnb. But now it's like, I'm here all alone. I get to use this stuff even before I go. But it turns out the blendies are just black espresso, whatever. Black coffee inside black coffee. So instead I went back out. Got one of the mega sweet coffees and just mixed all of this stuff together. Sweet coffee, black coffee and like five of these little blendy coffee shots. And it was good. It was a good mix. Heasted very nice. But I know it was just it was so much coffee. You know, one little can would have been good. That would have been fine. This was so much more than that. And I was remember thinking to myself, like, you don't have to do this. You can just you can dump it out. You don't have to drink this. But I did. I'm always just like, oh, just do this dumb thing and just hope that it all works out. And I mean, to be honest, that part so far has been fine. I had a bit of my head felt a little weird little fuzzy about an hour after drinking all that stuff. At this point though, I think I got away with that one. But I am one of these people that coffee and caffeine definitely triggers everything to move in my body. But I didn't feel bad. Like I didn't feel any rumbles in my gut. I felt completely fine. You know, sometimes like I was afraid that these carage chicken balls would give me like, like when you've got a diarrhea situation and just any little time you move, you feel the shift in your gut, you feel the gurgle.

I didn't feel any that. I felt fine. But just as I had all my stuff ready, and I was about to go. I got hit with like, boom, what my two-year-old niece would call poop soup. It was pretty bad.

And for a moment, I was like, oh, come on, I was just about to leave. But then the backup thought hit me of like, hey, don't complain. Be glad to hit you right now. What if this happened 20 minutes from now? Be glad that this happened right before he left. But it was like, geez, yeah, not good. But that was hours ago. And everything's been okay since.

So I think, you know, beyond the best possible scenario of just completely getting away with, I mean, it was like that episode of Futurama where Fry eats the sandwich from the intergalactic gas station and gets really sick. That's basically what I did. Beyond somehow that just not affecting me at all. I think I got away with it as well as possible. I mean, I guess we'll see where things go. But I mean, I had this one just bad like, what would have been a bad situation if I didn't have a toilet right there. But I did. And I think maybe that was it. Famous last words. I really can't complain. Not too bad.

But now I've just got to modulate myself. You know, I've definitely got at least, I'm going to say probably three more hours to go because I'm also walking really slow. So I don't mess up my shoulders too bad. And I'm rolling this bag behind me. And also what's the hurry? Because there's no benefit to getting there too early. I can't even get into the place. So I'm trying to walk slow.

Not a lot of public restrooms necessarily on this route. But there are convenience stores. And, you know, they're generally pretty good. So I just got to balance out.

You know, I don't want to let myself get all dehydrated. But I don't want to overdo it either. So I made myself a little game. Oh, no, I guess this isn't going to happen. I haven't had melon soda yet. So my little game was going to be don't get anything to drink till you find a machine with melon soda. And eventually I was getting way too thirsty. So I did get one of the little vitamin C drinks. Because I figured, hey, that can't hurt, right? And they're really good because they're really small. They're just packed full of vitamin C. And it's like this powerful blast of lemon. Just like, boom. So I do get one of those. And I was just passing the machine that's got two, two calpists melon sodas that are both sold out. So not yet. Keep on, keep on rolling.

So yeah, that's today's adventure. Weaving through the back streets, getting sunburned to death. But now that I'm on this major street, this is actually like great. I love this street. This is the ultimate street to have your book bag in wheel mode. I mean, it's so big. I can just weave around between people. I'm not getting in anyone's way. And yeah, it's my plan just to walk. Just to walk all the live long day. And I probably won't get anything proper to eat till I get to the other end. But I guess we'll see. Because yeah, like I said, not just level easy hiking level double easy.

I'm walking past a subway station right now. I guess I'll say what the subway station is. That's a good way to tell where the heck I am. Yeah, I could hop on one of these subways at any time. There's convenience stores the whole time anytime. It's not even type two fun. This is type one fun. This fucking great. Just beautiful sunny day. Walking clear across fucking Tokyo. Well, not really. Tokyo is so big. This is still this four hour walk is still like nothing.

Higashi Nakano station, the Toei subway line, E31. So yeah, there was potential danger on the horizon. And you never know there could still be. But I'm feeling pretty confident. I think this is going to go just fine.

Oh, and actually I just checked on a map. I think I'm I'm like halfway almost halfway. Not bad, man. Not fucking bad. I might actually get there before three o'clock. I might get there too early. Probably not. But that's good. I don't want to get there early. This is all working out.

Well, here's a little whiplash effect. I still got the sensitivity turned down. Gotta put my face right in this thing. Here's a little whiplash effect that just happened is I didn't make it the whole way without eating, although I now realize I easily could have. I stopped at a family mart. And I do think this is a legitimate problem. I need to work on how I was talking about, you know, the large bottles in the small bottles, at least I'm starting to get the small bottles.

Every meal doesn't need to be a gigantic thing. I guess I kind of developed this habit because, I don't know, I heard something about in tribal days or whatever. The idea of the one meal day that you spend the early part of the day, you know, you want to stay hungry because it keeps you alert. Say you're in a tribe, tribal life. If you want to stay alert, you want to be mentally focused on either gathering or hunting. And you just eat tiny little bits maybe, but then you have one big meal for the day. And I started experimenting with that and I didn't hate it. You know, I could basically eat one big meal a day. I can get away with that. But the one big meal can be kind of debilitating, you know, especially just with my body the way it works, my tiny little stomach. So I could have just got, you know, a bowl of ramen. That was the plan. But I had to do the whole thing. I had to get a chicken breast and I had to get the boiled eggs. And I got like a little yogurt drink. So I spent $11, you know, and I could have spent three bucks and just got still a fancy pants ramen.

And I ate all that stuff. And I guess just because I was still mildly worried about the state of my belly today. And I felt like I was not close. I felt like I still had a lot of this journey to go. The direct sunlight. You know, how I was saying the big buildings were like being in the trees. But there's not big buildings the whole way. This is an extremely long walk. So they would come and go. And yeah, the heat was definitely beating me down some and I ate all this stuff. And I was like, why do I do that? This day of all days, you know, especially in the land of, you know, you pass a convenience store every 10 minutes in a bad situation. So every two minutes normally, there's just no need for me to have just done that. Why did I put all that stuff in my belly? So I was like, God, geez. Why am I setting myself up all the time for this? It reminds me of in Mr. Show with Bob and David. They had a joke like an ant acid commercial. And the way they described it is, you know, that the way North Americans eat, it's like we're a baby with money. You know, no self control just cramming our faces with ultra rich food with no sense of what's going to happen by doing this. And that's me to a tee. That's what I'm doing. And it's like, what is wrong with you? But anyway, it wasn't that bad. Once I shook that off and it settled in my belly a bit, I'm like, okay, it's not that bad. But I still shouldn't have done that. Like why? Why do that? Oh, what's cool is right after that, I'm walking along this street, which I saw the name earlier, but I forgot to, to mark it down.

But the street has a ramp that goes up and that becomes like an above ground highway. There's the normal highway. And then above it, I think there might be two lanes. It's huge. It's this like crazy big like in the sky thing. And I realized like, oh, that's this Naka Itabashi place where I stayed when I first got here. And I was there for the first 40 days in 2019 when I first visited. So I just walked that neighborhood over and over and over for over a month. It was kind of one of my favorite things is that it's generally a pretty quiet neighborhood. And I would walk down this river, which at the time I didn't know the name of, but I looked it up. It is the Shakuji River, S-H-A-K-U-J-I-I.

And it was this awesome little just yet again, one of those similar to the one I was at before the Maguro River, except even smaller, but a very similar thing. There's like walkway paths on either side of it, and then occasionally you could cross over. But there'd always be a point. It was like this part where there were old men who would fish in this one part. And there's a little squat toilet that I think I never used. I just, you know, peed. I don't think I ever had to squat in there. But it went from just the most, you know, again, I was very new to Japan at all. I'm like, man, all these old guys that are just fishing in the super, that might have been the first squat toilet I ever saw. And it's like, wow, this is so cool. This is the, like, just very traditional feeling part of Tokyo, you know? Very Japanese feeling. And then right next to it is this giant overpass. But then I would just cross under the overpass and just keep going. I didn't often walk along it, like I am right now. But I realized, oh, that's it. Here we go. This street is Yamate Dori Avenue. Y-A-M-A-T-E-D-O-R-I Avenue. And you just have the scale of things is just so different. We're in a car. This is probably not even that big of a journey. This whole walk that I did. So, of course, this, you know, crazy super street goes all the way from here to Shinjuku. I wouldn't it.

But I had no concept of that on foot of, like, where do these things actually go? You know? They're just little moments that I passed by on foot.

So I saw this thing, and I'm like, jeez, just like that, like just unexpectedly. I'm there. I'm back in the old neighborhood essentially, because all the stuff I've done so far has been very reminiscent of the first time I visited Japan. A lot of similarities, a lot of, you know, here is A River. Here's a bunch of convenience stores. Here's a bunch of public parks, like it's all very similar, but it's not quite the place. It's not quite the place that really you know, I've been kind of daydreaming of coming back to. Just all sneakily, this is the place. Oh shit, that's it. So I'm walking along under this overpass, and I know that river is coming up soon, and I can walk along it to Naka Itabashi, but then it turns and goes the wrong way away from where my Airbnb is. But that's good, because I know exactly where it turns, you know, so I'm going to do the little walk, the same old walk that I did so many times before. I keep talking about that, oh yeah, I'm a road place. I mean, it's no big deal that I miss that. I will go to it eventually, but it's just a shopping street. Again, I've been on other shopping streets while I've been here. They're just not that one. You know, and the only reason these are really relevant or notable to me is just because they're the first places that I went. But yeah, even though I'm not at the Airbnb yet, I've got, I mean, probably, probably less than an hour, but let's say an hour. But I'm a lot closer than I realized because the next stretch of this journey is the whole reason I got this Airbnb in the first place. So I'd be near these places, and I could come back to these places for a little bit. But anyway, I thought that was cool. I thought I'd bring that up. That I'm still not technically recognizing stuff, but it's going to come any moment now. So so close. And I've got some harder info about a notice on my little Airbnb listings while I was checking out of the old one and making sure I had the info for the new one. I do have some actual hard info about their both six days days. So it's interesting to compare and contrast how much each one costs because this one I'm going to is so much better since it's essentially a whole apartment to myself. But it's out here in a obscure area. Whereas the one I left was a tiny little cubby hole, but was in a much more famous area.

It's just handy since they're both the same number of days we can compare and contrast the prices. But let's do that later when I'm not by the big mass of highway.


All right. I'm right outside the old Airbnb. I used to stay at just moving along now while I talk to myself. What a mysterious place because it still looks, it looks immaculate. It looks super brand new. It looks way better than everything else around it. I'll kind of get in a bit to this neighborhood. A bit such a fancy pants looking building.

Oh yeah, the wheels. Maybe I should put this thing on my back. I'm almost there anyway.

They had the second floor where I stayed. The window was open so I could see that there was just just stuff stacked up in there. It's weird. It's like they just shut the thing down, I guess, with COVID and they just never opened it back up again.

Man, though, in my very first episode where I was talking about when I first came to Japan and I was sick. I'm walking across that little bridge. There's the 7-11. The first 7-11 I went into where I got the cough drops.

So yeah, turning the corner was that exact thing I was saying, the little fishing area that nobody was fishing right now. And the little squat toilet and this whole neighborhood is so much more, like you can tell, I couldn't tell I guess at the time it didn't occur to me, but comparing them back to back, this area is so much less affluent, I guess I would say. The buildings are so much more weathered. And you can just tell there's way less money flowing through here. And this makes sense why I was saying I felt so much more comfortable when I moved away from Shibuya, and even away from Sanginjaya. And as I got further away, the more comfortable I felt. Because this does feel pretty different.

So this last week has been kind of weird now in hindsight, where everything is similar. I'm like, hey, yeah, I'm back in Japan. But it wasn't quite right because it was just different. Like I looked up Sanginjaya briefly just to see about the origin of the name and stuff because it's just I'd never heard of it. And it seemed like such an odd name. And I found out it means three T houses and they were saying how, you know, very desirable neighborhood amongst Japanese people and people who move to Japan alike. And, you know, within easily access to blah, blah, blah, all the stuff you might want. And now I'm seeing that, yeah, that's not quite right. That's not how Japan was in my mind, really. Everything was a little bit wrong, you know, so close, but it wasn't quite right. Where this area where everything is just calmer and quieter, there's a lot more old people. Old people and kids, you know, it's definitely not where where the movers and the shakers move, you know, where the young up and coming professionals live, you know. And yeah, if I could have, I mean, I would have just done a repeat of last time. All right, it just was here for like 40 days, maybe 40 days is a little much. But it's weird, like I just couldn't find places that were affordable around here. There were some other places near where I stayed before, but they are really expensive, like $50 a night, like obviously for a very short visit.

And the reviews are impactable. I'm sure they're very nice places. But yeah, the whole reason I was here initially was because it was cheap. And then it got its hooks into me and I'm like, yeah, that's my favorite. But it would seem really weird to spend a bunch of money to come back here. And even this place that I found, it's not the worst deal, it's still a little bit expensive. And it's about half an hour away from the neighborhood proper. But even that is only available for six days, just a tiny little bit. And it was booked up after that. So I'll take it, you know, as I get a little taste.

But yeah, I realized, again, just one of these things that didn't occur to me at all till, till just now, till just the moment it hit me.

As you know, I got into Japan and I had that crazy trip from the airport where everything was all nuts. And then for the last nearly a week, I've just been exploring around the Sengenjaya area. And it's been cool. But I didn't realize till I got back into this neighborhood that it's like I hadn't quite gotten back to Japan yet, you know? I was in a very close approximation of it. But I guess the thing is because I visited here right before COVID, and then I've just been in my hometown for the last four years.

And Japan is just such a unique place and was such a unique experience to come visit here, that it stuck in my mind so clearly, that I've been basically daydreaming about it for four years, you know? Like if I have a hard time falling asleep, one of the things I'll do is just walk through an old neighborhood if somewhere I used to live, and just kind of walk through it as well as I can, try to remember as well as I can. And this stretch from Nakahitabashi to Oji station, I did that all the time. So it kind of took on the feeling of like a dream to me, and not just that stretch, but out of Fukuoka, and then out by Akikawa station, all these other places that I'll be going eventually, it's all like, you know, it was obviously real stuff, it all really happened, but it felt like a dream, I guess, because I would just, I mean, I say daydream, but not so much daydream, it really was more at night, just trying to fall asleep. I mean, just over and over, I've been thinking about these places. So it was a really crazy feeling to turn that corner and start walking down that river, and again, it's similar to the Magoru River, but that was, you know, all that stuff was like little remixes of, or facsimiles of my memories. This is the real place.

And I mean, I don't know, it's like I had a little moment where it's like, man, I think I'm getting a little choked up here. What a crazy feeling. I'm inside that dream, that weird dream that I kept having over the past four years, because it wasn't a dream at all, it's a real place.

And maybe there's a bit of irony that it's not special, you know, it's not a fancy Japanese neighborhood. But for me, it was like crazy, because those times that I'd be laying in bed, you know, walking down the river in my memory, and like, okay, then this part would happen, and then this part, and then the big overpass, and then this, and then this. It's still just like, you know, the major beats, the vague memories, where turning that corner and being back on that route, suddenly it's perfect. Every detail is perfect because it's right there. This is the real place. Every detail is exactly right. See, I feel like this is like, I don't have a term for it, but it's like inverse tourism or something. It was really cool to see Japan, and like, oh, look at all these places I'm seeing, I've never been before. Cool. And it's neat to stumble upon a landmark or see some of the sights or whatever, but the stuff I really wanted to see was just this random ass neighborhood. This is it. But who knows, maybe it'll, it's like waves on the beach, right? Like, maybe now all that stuff that I saw for the past week. Maybe that'll be the stuff next time. Where I'll be like, oh, there's that shrine again. There's that weird bridge or whatever. There it is. I'm seeing it again. Maybe this neighborhood will wire off by that, but for now, holy man. I mean, it's probably, I guess we'll see. Like, they probably saved me from myself that I couldn't just book 40 days in this neighborhood again. Probably, being here for six days is probably plenty. Get to Soki back in, get to just bathe in the nostalgia of my 2019 visit, and then move on and then go somewhere else. But for now, holy fuck, it feels real good, man.

I've really am back in Japan now.

All right, this has been a long walk, and I ain't there yet. I've got another 20 minutes, so I'm going to take this pack off my back, get back to Roland.

Here we go. Since I'll be walking this route from my Airbnb back to the old Airbnb to relive some of my old adventures. Here's a 7-Eleven on the route. Maybe this is also why, beyond just my North American memories of 7-Eleven. Maybe that's another reason my 7-Eleven is the convenient store chain. I kind of tend to ward here because there just happens to be a bunch out here.

This is not a Lawson's neighborhood.

Thank you for joining me on this silly long walk. I made it. I still have not gotten back on this subway. You believe that shit? Ridiculous. I'm going to have to for the next Airbnb when I go to Akigawa Station because it is 54 kilometers away. Again, I can't tell how long that would take to walk because I don't have an internet connection right now. At that point, there'll be no choice, but I got a feeling while I'm here in this neighborhood. I think I'm staying on foot.

I made it to the Airbnb. For some reason, I have a strange inability to figure out what's going on with laundry. I guess it's that all these Airbnb's because I look... I mean, I think there's nine different places where I'm going to stay while I'm here, so they all kind of blur together. And this one, this is the super duper, extremely well planned out one where they have their own YouTube channel that shows you how to do stuff. I think maybe that's where I got confused because there's a YouTube video about how to use the air conditioner and how to use the hot water for the shower and how to use this. And how to use that, all these different appliances and somehow I got mixed up because there's so many of them. It's like, I could have swore, I saw a laundry machine in there, but it's all right. There's a laundromat literally around the corner, right around the corner, two minute walk. Because at first I was like, oh jeez, been such a long day. Maybe I'll do it tomorrow, but I don't want to put it off just in case. I mean, I checked all my stuff before I left the last place, but just don't trust a big bug ever. The little ones are so little, little eggs and stuff. I'm going to go do that right after this, plus I don't have enough socks.

But man, this place is so good. And I noticed on their listing, they say like long stays are fine, stays longer than 28 days, no problem. I don't know when that would ever be possible because it was really booked up on Airbnb. And that makes sense because this place is fucking amazing to recap. So the upsides are to the last place. It was three stops away from Shibuya. Clearly a big upside to most people, not an upside to me. You know, interesting to try, but that's like I was saying just earlier this episode. That's really not my vibe. I don't like it to be all crowded and stuff. I don't need it to be fancy. I mean, it's nice. It's fine, but it's not what I prefer. So it's a little bit of a downside. Meanwhile, the downside to this place is it is far away. May not show. It's called M-A-E-N-O-C-H-O. It's a Bashi city, although I wonder. I mean, I came in from a weird direction just because I wanted to pass by, not get it to Bashi. But if I was station agnostic, let's say we'll use Ikibukuro because Ikibukuro is pretty major.

If I wanted to get to here, oh, it's a bus line. Okay, so yeah, it is legitimately a little tough to get here. There's actually no subway near here. They recommend a bus from Akabane station.

Oh yeah, it's also going to say about the laundry thing. It's like, oh, you know, I feel like, you know, because I've been walking so long. And the thing I was saying how as the sun goes down, I always feel a little bit drained. And then once the sun goes down, I feel fine again. It's literally only 5 p.m. It's 4.59. It's not late in the day. I have all the time in the world that go to laundry. This is not the end of the day, but it's just because it gets dark so early. Which again, man, I love that. It's just such a weird, again, that idea of feeling like I'm inside a dream, you know, not to just like exoticize Japan. Mainly, it feels like a dream because like I was saying, I can possibly daydream about it. But it feels like a dream in that sense. Like in the way that you can just walk down the highway and there's a shrine next to it, that feels like a dream. That's not normal. That's not usual to North America. That quite literally never happens. You know, so that's just like you're walking down the street and you're like, how is there a highway there and a shrine there? Five feet from each other. It doesn't make any sense. So it does have that feeling that just kind of gives you a little shock. Like, man, this is the world. This is weird. But this thing with the weather, that it's going to be pitch black in half an hour. But it is so hot today. Oh, I guess I can finally check the temperature because I'm just dying today. I could not believe it. It's a November 2nd. And it's like, how is it so fucking hot?

22 degrees right now. And that's what the sun going down. Yeah, it was 25 earlier. So again, just even that, the weather, this literally physically cannot happen in Canada. We definitely do have the sun going down at 5 o'clock. That's not weird. That happens every year. But it's frigid. It's super cold. It's, you know, where your big winter coat. The early darkness is associated with freezing, literally freezing. And here it's dark early. And it's over 20 degrees out. It's summer. Warm. It's just, it's so weird. It just feels like a dream. It feels so different. You know, like I would kind of chide myself maybe a little being stuck in my hometown for four years. It's like, yeah, I know it's boring. I know it's my hometown. But should I really pine after that Japan experience so much? Surely I can whip my life into exciting shape at home, right? I mean, sort of, you know, my internal world chair. I could dive into writing novels and stuff. And I can try to work on my rich inner life. But the outer life, the actual place, the actual city, the actual environment, the actual weather, you can't, there's no, I mean, it's, you can't do this. It can't be like this unless I'm in a dream.

That's how weird it feels to be in Japan. And I mean, man, you can't put a price on that experience. You know, that's nuts. Which I'll get back into that model and thought in a moment.

So yeah, this place, it is, it's far away. It's really far away from everything. To me, that's a bonus. To me, I like it better. I feel better out here. I feel more natural. This is what I like. I like everything to be a little quiet and a little calm and a little rundown and not as bustling, not as busy. That's I think why I was commenting so much down by Shibuya and those environments. How surprised I was to see so many tourists and so many fellow foreigners.

Because out here you do not. You never do. But yeah, so it does have those downsides, which it's a double bonus for me because I don't think they're downsides. I like all that stuff. I like it better. But my six days in the tiny, cramped, uncomfortable, well-meaning, but kind of awful little place that I was in last week. For six days, it was $210. So you know, still not bad, not the worst price. However, this place is also six days. It's $260. So for a little bit, over $8 extra a day. $8, which again, I spend, I spend more than that when I buy ramen from freaking family mart. You know, $8, not much. And let me give you the audio walkthrough. This is so fucking bananas. So okay, we walk in, got our little ginkong, got a nice welcome guide that this is a couple. It's a Japanese man and a French woman. I noticed in my instructions of how to get here, they were in English and French, which is unusual. But it's because she is French. So there's this great big laminated welcome guide for everything you might need to know for this apartment and local stuff, even like an on-set, how the on-set works and tips and tricks.

Man, I'm going to go through this book at some point. There's so much stuff in here. It's like crazy. And then we've got the kitchen that has a little toaster oven, a microwave, a pretty good-sized fridge. Every little like utensil pots and pans, all the spices and everything you could ever conceivably need, like a gas burner stove, which I will certainly not be touching. The sink, then over here we got, I love in Japan how the toilet and the bathroom are separate. It just makes sense. It's so weird that the rest of the world doesn't do that, but bathroom with super duper toilet. Sometimes in these places out here, they have normal toilets, but this one's got the bidet, it's got the whole deal. And the shower room, it's like the kind of room where the whole room is a shower, but there's also the tub, which is the little square tub, which I did use the little square tub once, when I was a poop guoka last time. It's a little tough on my legs, so I'll probably just use the showers, I suspect. So, already, that's already ludicrously larger than what I had before. Now we're into the living room. In here, there's two couches that can also fold out, because technically, you can have up to four people in here. That would be a little cramped, but not bad. There's a little balcony in the back. There's a television in here. There's a chair, table, storage places with all kinds of extra stuff in the storage, extra futons, blankets, yadiyatta. I'll have to turn on the tv at some point to do an episode about Japanese TV, what little I can comprehend of it. Then there's a bedroom with two beds. I got two beds. I look at that another little TV, in like an air conditioner unit, and there's beautiful paintings all over the place. The place is super nice and really awesome, but the other thing that I like about it, that I was feeling this even as I was walking through this neighborhood. But I feel it in here, too. I guess because of stuff like the gas burner stove and stuff, it really reminds me of, I have relatives in Atlantic Canada that are from St Andrews or Campabello Island, and it's like rustic, you know? Or if not, their actual houses, they all have cottages, too. And it has that feeling. It's like a cottage and an apartment. It's like a mix in between. And I kind of felt like that walking through the neighborhood to get here, too. It reminds me also of my relatives because a lot of them are mechanics and stuff, and that's not anything I know anything about or have any aptitude for, I don't even have a license. But just being around that stuff, it's like, yeah, I'm comfortable with that. I know how that all works. It's basically, it's fucking incredible. It's amazing. I wish I could be here for more than six days. Next time I come to Japan, like this is going to be very high on my hit list of like, can I squirl my way in here? Can I just like book it way in advance or something? If I could stay here for a month, I would do that in a heartbeat. It's so awesome.

And it's not mega cheap, but I mean, okay, $260. I don't remember what I paid for these things, but divided by six days. So it's about 43, 50 a day. I mean, I guess actually by my standards, I do feel like that is kind of a little expensive or it was before COVID. That's more than I would have ever paid for an Airbnb before COVID. But I guess this is the new paradigm is the cheap places just aren't that much cheaper because the other place was $35 a day. You know, so I mean, I guess that's how this happened. That was sort of how the slippery slope happened is I already felt like $35 a day for the place in San Gengaya was a little more than I would ever have paid back in the day. I would have found something cheaper. So then that this is only a little bit more. So that's how you sort of sneak your way up to a point that it's like a lot more than I ever would have paid before. Maybe I wouldn't stay here for a month because at $40, $34 a night, I mean, that adds up pretty fast. That's kind of a lot, but I would certainly stay a little longer than this if it were available.

But I think that is what kind of led me from here is just kind of even just these first two Airbnb's that I booked sort of where I was getting a lay of the land. Like, okay, this is how it's gonna be. So if this is how it's gonna be and no matter what, I'm gonna have to pay a bit more than I used to back in the day. Given that it's not gonna be especially cheap, no matter what, these little cases where you spend the extra $8 a day, I mean, it's just out of control how much more you get. This is crazy. I could live here. This could be my house. This is so amazing. I mean, I'm sitting in a living room. There's a fucking kitchen to my right. There's a bedroom ahead of me. Two beds. What the, what in the goddamn shit? It's so, I mean, bookshelves, books. I haven't even begun to absorb all the stuff that's here. It's like fucking ridiculous. It's so awesome. What the shit?

So I guess yeah, I like kind of, in my mind, instead of it being $43-$44 a night, in my mind, it's $8.00. I'm only spending $8 for all this. What the fuck? But yeah, very much worth it because I wanted to be in this neighborhood anyway. So I was like, I'll just splurge. It's only available for those six days anyway. Let me splurge on the six days. And then I'll go back to my little cheap holes in the wall, but I didn't really. Like I kind of kept up with this idea. It's like, let's just spend a little more, fuck it. So my next place is also, it's not as big as this, but it's, again, it's just a neighborhood I wanted to go back to and it's a solo place. Then it's going to be Fukuoka after that. And similar thing, it's like these weird little, it's almost exactly the same situation. There were communal places downtown, but I didn't even want to be downtown. I was going to go travel out to the outskirts after the mountain every day. I wanted to find a place by the mountains. So I found a place, sort of an hour's walk from where I'm trying to get to, but, you know, more on the edge of Fukuoka. That's a little bit more, but again, an entire apartment. I got two of those. Then if I remember right, oh yeah. So I do have a couple of somewhat communal stays. I got a place in Chiba where it's like a guy has four bunk set up. So that's a little bit. It's only for a few days. And, uh, I do have one for a while. It might even be like two weeks by the sky tree that's more like a capsule, like a proper capsule hotel because I've never done that before. So that'll get me back into communally-moded stuff. Then I got another place that's like a little mini apartment and then my final place. It's a private room, but apparently it is like the tiniest thing in the world. So I got a nice little mix, but I assumed going into this that I would probably have all little cramped-in communal places just to keep it affordable. But ultimately, yeah, it's just, it's not that much more for a way better experience. Man, I can just feel like the stress has left me immediately. I just, man, this feels better.

It's not that things have been particularly stressful so far. Like I said, it's been pretty great how well things went at the Calgary Airport and how well the flight went. And then ultimately, I was getting used to that little place and it wasn't the worst. And, uh, and I'm just really glad that the bedbugs were a very minor problem or so it seems. Again, I'm still going to go do that laundry right right after this because I just better safe than sorry. But I mean, I wasn't just walking compulsively every single day of certain distances and random directions just because I was excited to be back in Japan. It's because I didn't have anywhere else to go. I didn't want to go back to that fucking Airbnb. I didn't want to be there. God, I wish I could stay here for more than six days because I do want to be here. This is fucking... I mean, especially in my silly little life where I pretend I'm going to be a writer, you know. This is like a writer's retreat. This is so fucking perfect. What a nice little apartment.

So that's one thing just to end a little modeling. You know, I also got up early this morning and I've been walking through the heat all day. I'm definitely wiped. But, you know, before it's like, I know it's... I'm extremely privileged that I can travel and I can come to Japan and I can just dick around. I can get the 90-day visa and use the whole thing, you know.

But it is less clear how privileged I am when I'm trapped in a little place and things are a little bit fucked and it's like, yeah, it's nice but, you know, it's like a little bit balanced out. Now that I'm here, this is... it's just... it's totally fucking crazy. It's all that stuff I was saying about Japan and how it's like a weird dream, but I'm really here. But also, I mean, this perfect little apartment that again, yeah, like if I just had to go whole up somewhere and just write a fucking... write a novel or something like this would be so perfect. It's so nice. It's so fucking nice. And that this weird semi rustic sort of middle and nowhere neighborhood is also the neighborhood that I like makes it double nice.

Outside, the sun is almost down. It's 5-18 now. Just in the last 20 minutes, like I can see. There's a bunch of trees out back, out past the balcony and I can just see like the trees have become like just a black silhouette. And the sky is like a little bit light behind them, but it's gonna be pitch black soon. It's just like beautiful. It's so perfect.

And this is where I just wish I could tell my dad how much I appreciate this.

You know, he got a little bit of time with his money. He was functionally retired for a pretty long time, but he'd still pop in the office here and there. My mom's still going strong. She just will not retire. And my parents, they just, they have... It's weird because they always lived way below their means. So they have like quite a lot of money. And my dad never really got to use it. I don't know if he necessarily wanted to. He definitely didn't want to travel around and stuff. He always said he could only sleep in his own bed. He didn't really enjoy traveling around and he didn't like eating strange food. He didn't know and stuff.

So I mean, he, at least he did what he wanted to do. He worked a little bit, but he mostly had stopped. And he just, just dicked around with his friends for the last 15 years. So I mean, that's not, that's not so bad.

But he never like properly got to use his money.

So anyway, I'm the one, I'm the one using the money. And I wish that I could tell him how much I appreciate it.

But oh well, at least I can tell my mom, at least I can get in touch with her on the weekend because I sure couldn't at the last place. You know, the last place people could probably hear me grinding my teeth at night. So...

Yeah, I mean, this has been a pretty good trip already, but...

Yeah, between six days here and then the next one is Akigawa Station, which is my other big place that I daydreamed about a lot. How many days am I there? It's also pretty short because again, I still just couldn't find a cheap place anymore.

So weird, these places I went just because they were cheap. And then I had to pay to go back. Akiruno, looks like that one's seven days, one whole extra day.

Yeah, then a few weird little days in Chiba, which even the guy from Chiba, maybe it was a weird translation, but I think he even seems... His message suggested that Chiba's boring, and there's nothing there, but... But again, that was just so I didn't have to travel all the way from Akiruno all the way to Narita in one day, because that would be insane. So I stopped halfway in, and then Fukuoka, which is the whole other beautiful daydream. Then, yeah, I guess coming back, coming back is going to be slightly weird, because that's where Skytree, Yokohama, I've never been there.

Fourteen days in Yokohama. I think I was just tired at that point of booking things. I'm like, whatever. Because that seems like a long time. But hey, whatever.

And then Hachioji in the middle.

So anyway, the back end of this trip, I'm not sure. That's a little more... The unknown, but this next stretch... This is going to be the moneymelling.

Alright, well, thank you to my Phantom Dad. Thank you...

I mean, technically, he paid for the last time I was in Japan, too.

I had a chance to thank him, I guess I didn't.

You know, people always hit you with that stuff. You never know how long you got.

I appreciate people while they're here, blah, blah, blah. But I mean, let's be honest. You don't just expect people to die.

But just make sure to thank him for stuff. I mean, I'm sure I did, at least tacitly. I don't know, but I could have been more emphatic about it. I could have been clearer.

It's time to do some laundry and then in the spirit of being on the outskirts with all the garages and the warehouses and delivery stuff and whatever. I'm going to fucking go buy some beer, fucking.

I got a fridge now. I got a whole last fridge. Alright, I'll see you next episode.