#155 The secrets of Sanbang Mountain, Jeju, Korea
Areas discussed: Jeju South Korea, Jeju Olle Trail, Sanbangsan, Sogeummak Coast, Wollabong, Seogwipo Chilsimni Poetry Park
All transcripts are machine generated.
Transcript
Alright, it's a couple days later. I'm back at Mount Sanbangsan, or maybe just Sanbang Mountain. I'm probably doing the same thing I did in Japan where I'm just repeating the term mountain in two different languages. It's a lot less overcast today, but still a bit where last episode I ended with this looming mountain that's really steep. And the top was disappearing into the mist. And there was little occasional lights on the mountain. And it was actually very kind of scary looking. It was very intimidating. Today it's a lot less so because it's like three in the afternoon. And it's less overcast, but the top of the mountain is still a little bit clouded and missed. And yeah, I'm still grateful for any overcastedness I get. I'll take it. It's less overcast today. It's more hot. It's like 32 or 33 degrees. But I still feel like this would be... I don't know what would have happened if I didn't hit this nice patch in the rainy season, where things are generally clouded. Because yeah, I feel like I'm still cutting it a little close, finishing this circumnavigation of Jeju. If it was just full summertime, I just don't think I could have. I don't think it would have been sensible at all.
Got some beware of snakes, got some falling rock warnings, heading on up.
But yeah, this mountain has an admission fee because there's like temples and stuff all over this mountain. And it said on Google Maps just a thousand one, which is just a dollar. When I got to the ticket office, there was a thousand one. And then there was one that was 250. So I don't know what that is. I just went with a thousand one. And if there's anything super sweet that I'm missing out on.
I don't know. Presumably they'll have another opportunity for me to give them another dollar, 50.
I don't mind spending 250. I just want to make sure I can go all the way to the top.
But I didn't realize there were two tickets till I'm right in front of the window. And there's a little bit of English, but not much. And I was like, I don't know what this is. I don't want to figure this out right now. I don't know. Here's a dollar. We'll see as I get up there.
But I mean, podcasting while going up hills a bad idea, the best of times. In this weather, this humidity, the hell was I thinking? I need to wait till I get to the top.
Actually, let me take a little break because there was a couple who I let pass me because I wanted to walk up. Meg us low because I like to go up slow anyway. So I don't injure my knee and with this heat, yikes. But I keep kind of getting a little too near them because of my natural long-leggedness, even when I try to go slow, but I mean, I don't know. It's a different world, man. It's a different world when you don't have mega long legs.
But this is nice because I'm like halfway up. And yeah, this this thing is so sheer. It is absolutely crazy. Just the sheerness of this mountain is nuts. So there's these parts where there's like a little roof. I'm under quite a big one now. Like a big roof made out of a bunch of rings connected together with then fencing over it, which I guess is just for rocks in case rocks fall. And that's like, oh, that's nice because yikes. This is a scary-ass mountain. If they didn't have these steps built into this thing the whole time, I don't know how ancient people's ever got up here at all.
This shit's nuts. Oh, actually, that couple is coming back down and I hear something. I hear some water in the distance. Guess I'll just keep going because I don't know what's happening next. I'm still not sure which ticket I bought. I'm not sure where I can go or what I can do. This is one way to find out.
Yeah, there's a little bit of English signage around, but not as much as I would like as an English speaker.
Hmm, it's weird. On the one hand, this place is really developed and there's all these steps and you know, protect you from falling rocks and stuff. But here, there's just a bunch of bags of garbage halfway up the mountain, mostly filled with bottles, but there's like a coffee cup.
Oh, here's some English warning, danger. This mountain cave, caution of rock-slide accidents, so make sure to stay away from the wall. You know, I don't really bring it up every time, but there's a lot of typos on random messages, like this one says, stay away you from the wall. If you at the end, yeah, there is a general sense of a typo-ness going on around here.
Oh, maybe this is why they were coming back down. This could be it. Oh, and there's a lady here. I don't know. I don't know what's going on.
All right, so that was just a little rock grotto cave with Buddhist statues and a bunch of candles and stuff. There's a lady sitting there, but I'm not sure what she's doing, and I don't think there's any way to go any farther than this. I wonder, I don't know. I wonder if you can go all the way to the top. Maybe not. I mean, like I said, this mountain is ridiculously steep, really sheer. The fact that on this high up is like nuts. Whoever made that little rock grotto cave back in the day, that must have felt like some seriously insane shit to have your Buddhist temple stuff up on the side of this mountain. Maybe that's also what I could see last night, where I could just see lights midway up the mountain, because there are stairs all the way up here. That would make a lot of sense, because inside there are a bunch of candles and stuff, so even if I wasn't specifically seeing the candles, maybe there's artificial lights too.
Yeah, I wouldn't be surprised. But yeah, that's where I'm just like, I don't know.
I don't know if that's it. I'd be fine if that's it, but it's like, is there a, what was the other thing? Even if I gave that lady 250 for the other ticket, what does that mean? Where would I go for that? That's strange. I don't know. I don't know what's going on.
And this is kind of a feeling I've gotten around Jeju in general.
It is, you know, like with the waterfalls by my hotel and stuff, or with the the sunrise mountain on the east side of the island, you know, it's like nice stuff. It's not bad. It's worth a few bucks. Why not? But there's also kind of the, if you build that they will come feeling of like, you know, there's just so many natural wonders around. There's so many mountains and so many gorgeous views and so much amazing stuff that, you know, like the mountain I was on yesterday, as opposed to the mountain I'm on today. You know, what's the difference except this one has stairs built in which is nice, but this one also costs a dollar. You know, yesterday's one was free, but it had wild horses and historical significance of these islands that are the southernmost points of Korea. Yeah, I do kind of get a feeling a little bit that it's like, hey, just because it's a tourist thing, just charge people money and they'll show up, you know, even if there's comparable stuff that is not charging money, like maybe that stuff just doesn't seem as important or it's just like not a, I don't know, I guess you just need a target maybe if you're a tourist, you just need a reason to go somewhere. But again, it's still surprising to me that that island on the east was five bucks because all the other ones, two dollars, one dollar, those guys are really pushing it with five bucks just to go up the mountain. But yeah, I'm not sure if there's anything else around here. Maybe I'll try to find some Wi-Fi and try to do some research. But if that's all it is, that's cool. Didn't get to go all the way to the top, but again, yeah, just not surprising because yeah, this thing, this is some, so that's just a lone 1993 classic cliffhanger type shit. This is a sheer ass mountain.
So I learned something where the timing of this was kind of convenient that, you know, just from getting sunburned, learning, learning that these diffused days you still need to worry about the sun. And then just noticing how obvious it was where I had not put sun tan lotion, even just a little bit of missing area got really burned and everything else was fine. SPF 50, I was surprised how good the sun tan lotion is here. That seemed real good for 50. And I don't really know a ton about sun tan lotion. I mean, we do have brutal summers in Canada, they're harsh, but my hometown in particular, Frederickton, New Brunswick has so many mosquitoes and then they're followed by like black flies like such insect problems that I tend to stay pretty covered up in the summer. I'm not just lasing around on the beach or something, Australia style. So I don't even remember when the last time is I bought sun tan lotion. Because yeah, I just need to not get bit. So I'm pretty covered up back home. But in my memory, it's like SPF 50, isn't that the bad number, isn't it like 100? And I think I've seen 150. So I thought 50 was very low. But it's just the weird timing of just as I was wondering about this. There's a YouTuber, her channel is currently Hannah. She's from Australia and she did a whole video about comparing and contrasting Australian and Asian brands of sun tan lotion because she's from Australia. And the kind of assumption people have is like, Australia is the gold standard. It's like the best because you know, they're all out on the beach all the time, beaching it up. And there was this thought that Asian sun tan lotion is weak and is not that good. And her independent studies went a little sideways, a little bit inconclusive, but generally found that the two are pretty comparable. And one thing she mentioned, which I did not know, is that for whatever reason, the way they label sun tan lotion is different in Asia.
For some reason, it seems everything is in SPF 50. But then there's pluses next to that. How many pluses? And I think I think it goes up to four.
You know, I haven't mentioned that yet, honking, honking in South Korea. It seems pretty good because New York, it drove me fucking crazy. Even though I've like lived in a residential neighborhood in flushing queens, the amount of honking at inappropriate times of day, totally fucking infuriating. The honking situation there was nuts. Whereas Japan, there's zero honking. The only time or two that I ever heard anybody honk it was because there was about to be a serious calamitous accident. Korea, it seems like they've hit it right on the head. I do hear honking here and again once in a while, but it's always appropriate. It's always, hey, you're fucking in the way of the bus lane or hey, get out of the way. Why are you parked here? What's going on? Like, I always understand why the honk is happening. And it's like, it's usually not a, oh my god, something terrible almost happened. It's generally a courtesy honk. It's like, hey, you're making a mistake. Pay attention. You dip shit. But it's one honk and that's it.
I approve of Korean honking etiquette. It seems like they're like the perfect balance. But okay, sorry for that diversion. What I was saying about SPF, there's a plus number. And I checked the suntan lotion I had, which was just the only kind I could find at a convenience store. I didn't have any options, so I just bought it. But I remember buying it thinking like, ah, 50, that's not that good. I wish I could get better. But it's 50 plus plus plus. So if it is a four plus system, I'm up to three pluses. And yeah, you can tell, like this shit fucking works. You know, like, when I put on the suntan lotion, I'm good. A very gentle browning. And that's it. Whereas if there's a part of my body where I forgot to put it on, just the little tiny point at the top of my arms, like where my arm reaches my sleeve, I couldn't believe how bad that got burned. It's like, oh fuck. Oh fuck. So yeah, that's something important to know. That's how suntan lotion is labeled in Asia. It might say 50 SPF, but look for the pluses. Get as many pluses as you can. Three plus I can vouch for. Three plus is really good suntan lotion. I mean, I'm not going swimming. I think that's a whole other thing too. That's where a lot of, ah, hand as research went into is because with Australian stuff, if you're at the beach and you go swimming, that's a big issue with the suntan lotion. You know, will it stay on when you're swimming where Asian suntan lotion is just not as common of a of a pattern to your day. So water resistance is less of, ah, less of a worry. So I can't say for sure how that all works out. But yeah, for just walking around, I mean, I've done some pretty big gas fucking walks in this country. And as long as I got suntan lotion on, I've been all right. Though the big brimmed hat also. What a great purchase.
The view of this mountain from the side. I mean, I guess it's not super duper crazy tall. You know, a lot of the mountains I was on in Busan were definitely around this same height. It's just that it's so steep and just like it's just this one discreet mountain. Nothing else around here is even close to a mountain. That where I am generally even looking back to a horse mountain I was on yesterday. Well, no, it's that one's pretty big, but it's big and gradual. It takes the whole corner of the coast. This one is just like boop. It's like if you ever played the game populous back in the day where it was like a god game where you could just click to elevate and lower the land. You know, so you could flatten the land out so people could build farms.
Or build it up so that there was mountains. And if you just built a mountain on one little area, just one little boop, just straight up. That's what this looks like. Yeah, it's a really imposing, very fucking intimidating mountain. So it's surprising how hard it is to figure out information about stuff. So down at the bottom there was Wi-Fi. And I was clicking around trying to figure out like, did I make another terrible mistake? Was there like a little opening inside that cave grotto to go up farther? Did I just stop halfway? You know, as I've certainly done that before. I've made some mistakes in the past, but I just couldn't figure it out. I just don't know. Then I found a YouTube guy. Luckily, I had a strong enough signal to play a YouTube video. Some YouTube guy from seven years ago who did a little vlog about this mountain. And yeah, he went up into the grotto and that is it. That's the end of the grotto. He went back down. So I at least confirmed like, okay, what I did is what you do. That is what you're paying a dollar for. Finally, what cleared stuff up was TripAdvisor. Good old TripAdvisor. I was using that site quite a bit when I was first booking travel to New York. I was booking travel to Japan and cleared up a lot of stuff about how, you know, if you should use these discount ticketing things and why it's a bad idea. And it seemed like a really good website, but I hadn't really been back since. But I should keep that in the back of my mind, TripAdvisor. It seems very well curated and the advice people give seems pretty on the level, pretty well thought out more so than just, you know, the random Google reviews aren't the worst, but they're not the best either. So what I learned there is the 250. It looks like that's to also get admission to the dragon coast, which is like a little theme park across the street from the mountain. Apparently that coastline looks like a dragon or maybe it's dragon tail coast, one of the other anyway. I did see that as I was walking back and hear people cheering occasionally. So that's what the extra ticket price is. It's a double, a double feature. And then finally, somebody mentioned if you want to go to the peak, there's a trail at the back of the mountain. It's part of the Ola trail that you can go up. So we will see, supposedly it only takes about 30 minutes, but I'm just walking around the mountain to see what happens. See if I can find it. But the good news is if it's part of the Ola trail, then that's what I'll keep my eyes peeled for. If I see the Ola, you know, those distinctive Ola ribbons, the blue and orange ribbons, I'll head there. If I don't see them, then that's that. But it's a quarter after four. The front end of the mountain closes down at about six. So I mean, it's not tight for time, but you know, it's a little getting a little toward the end of the day. But presumably this will all work out, but yeah, it's just funny how difficult it is just to determine these basic things. I guess if I was just following the Ola trail, I would just come upon this exactly. But yeah, following the coast as I've been doing, I came in the frontway. But again, the frontway is the frontway, you know, it's where you pay admission and stuff. And it's all built up and developed, but it turns out that's actually not... I mean, it's okay to see the grotto. Apparently that's a very rare cave-based shrine. They don't happen that often. But the actual getting to the top thing is on the other side. But again, I'm not surprised. I'm sure they would connect it all together if they could. It's just that it's so crazy steep. And yeah, even looking at the back, I can see it does seem distinctly more walkable here at the back. It's still steep, but it's not fucking, you know, 84 degrees. It's a lot more gradual. However, there's a 7-11 here. I'm going to stop in here and get some dang popsicles first. That's the first order of business.
Hmm, well, I think I might have to chalk this one up as a failed adventure.
But, I mean, I guess if I ever do figure out what the deal is with this mountain, and if there is a way to get up to the top, there's lots of bus stops around here. I can easily just swing back by. But yeah, I did the walk all the way around, and it's really pretty. I would almost say it's worth walking all the way around the mountain, except that the first bit that I walked around by the 7-11, that part was alright, because it was, you know, there was wide lanes for cyclists and stuff. It was relatively easy to walk along. But now that I'm completing the loop, I'm on this part that is just like a very narrow bend on the edge of the road. It's not a very busy road, but still it's like, man, I shouldn't be here. This is not for pedestrians. This is 0% for pedestrians. And there is, at the back, there is a Buddhist temple and some roads on Google Maps that go like a little ways toward the mountain. I thought maybe that's it. That seemed like the best bet. And I walked a little ways toward there, but it's just like, dead. There's just nobody around. And I'm still looking up at the mountain. From every side, this part I'm looking at right now, every single part of this mountain looks so uninviting and so terrifying. So that's what I was thinking as I went toward the Buddhist places, like even if there is a path behind there that goes up to the top, I don't want to do that. That looks scary as shit. It's so fucking steep, man. It's like crazy. This is some Nathan Drake stuff, not some Keith McNally stuff. This is like, I'm in the Himalayas in a video game. Or like Far Cry 4, if you ever played Far Cry 4, where it had that slightly annoying map because it was so mountainous that you had to use actual grapple hooks and stuff to climb up sheer rock cliff faces. That's what this thing is like.
And additionally, at the temple, I didn't see any ole trail markers. And at this part that I'm at now, this final stretch, there actually are some ribbons, but they're different colors. They're not the ole colors. And there were some paths going away from the mountain. And you know, there's like some weird country roads and stuff. I don't know. I mean, there might be stuff. There's things you could examine and stuff you could check, but I don't know. I just wouldn't be surprised at all if you're not supposed to go up there.
It looks so fucking scary and dangerous. I think I think I walk in all the way around it now, just seeing it from every side. I think I'm okay. I mean, I am going to look into it a little more because it's like, like I don't know where the ole trail is around here. I really don't think the ole trail would lead people to something dangerous, but I didn't see any evidence of that anyway. It's all just confusing, but beyond just the technicalities of it, my gut feeling is that is a scary place. I'm imagining myself being up there. I mean, it's still misty, too, even today, when it's like, I mean, it's pretty overcast today. But I mean, man, yeah, it's just frightening.
In other news, I went into the 7-Eleven, as usual, it's just so unnecessarily confusing about the ice cream. I wish it was just like, you know, some things are by two get one free, some are by one get one free. I wish it was just everything was by two get one free, even if that meant that some of the stuff was a worst deal. Just so you could actually, like, it's just, I've got to stop bringing this up. I've brought it up so many times. But it's so fucking confusing. It's like, what can I do for the deals, man? So I just kind of gave up. I was like, whatever. These are by two get one free, okay, just give them to me, whatever they are. So they ended up being, there's one thing that I think specifically is for kids, because it's like a little ice cream sandwich shaped like a fish, inside with chocolate and some weird little jelly things.
And then along with that, I got these ice cream sandwiches that were kind of cool, because it is like Korean version ice cream sandwiches, where if you get an ice cream sandwich in North America, you know, it's just ice cream in the middle. And then the sandwich part is usually kind of like a cookie, I guess. I'm not totally sure what they make that stuff out of, but not bread, like a real sandwich.
In this case, it was the ice cream part in the middle, but bread, like just really thin white bread with the crust cut off. And I was like, all right, this is actually kind of good. I mean, you know, it's all just there so you can hold the thing and eat the ice cream. It doesn't really matter that much what the sandwich part is made of. And I mean, if anything, this is more accurate to a sandwich. But again, it's just one of those funny South Korea things, like who would think to make an ice cream sandwich like an actual sandwich? But then on the other hand, it's like, well, why aren't ours like that? But you got to think outside the box a little bit. And then the flavor itself. I thought it was like cheesecake, but I looked closer at the package and it was showing like actual cheese. And the inside wasn't pale like cheesecake. It was orange, orange like cheddar cheese. And on the very first bite, it actually did taste kind of like actual cheese. So I was like, hmm, I'm not sure how I feel about that. Just another bizarre South Korea flavor profile. But after a couple of bites, it just tasted like ice cream. You couldn't really taste any cheese stuff. There was a little hint of cheese at the very start. And then that was that. And since it was bite to get one, free I had two of those. I ate them all. I screamed it up. And I think the temperature is just going down naturally too. It feels below 30 degrees now. I'm not, I'm just sweating like a normal person. I'm not profusely sweating like I'm gonna melt into a puddle and die. But now that I'm on a busier street, there's a real sidewalk and everything. This feels better. Yeah, there was one side of that mountain, the eastern side where you just shouldn't be walking on that road. Not only was there not a route up, there wasn't even really a good route around. That was, you know, just one of those things that is like a little too close to traffic. It's not like I actually felt like it was dangerous, but if I was gonna accidentally get struck by a vehicle on this trip, that's one of those times that it's like, yeah, that would have been one of the times that that could have happened.
And yet this, God, this mountain. Now I'm crossing around to where it's not even, the other parts were very steep and imposing, but covered in greenery. Now this part I met, it's only half covered in greenery and then half just rock.
Oh, shit, and here's a beach.
Should I just bail out right now? I could go for a beach. Because at this point, I'm sort of circling around.
I'm by the one and only coffee shop and it seems to lead to a beach.
I guess I'll finish the loop just to be sure. Yeah, at this point, there's only a little bit more road to get back to where I started.
I've made nine tenths of the loop. Fuck it. Like I'm walking backwards now, back to the origin, just for the sake of bookkeeping. There's no fucking way if there was an ole trail. I definitely missed it.
Perhaps it was that Buddhist temple at the back was the entrance to go up, but again, like I said, I mean, there's just no one. There was no one around. The front side was really busy. Like I was saying, there's tons of people there. There just has to be a reason why nobody's around and no one's doing this and the information is so hard to find. And then yeah, even just looking at it, I had zero fucking indication in my heart and my soul and my cockles that that was anything a person should do.
So I think it's okay to let that one go. Still a very cool mountain. I mean, it's totally worth coming by just to see.
But yeah, now I'm heading down to the shore, down to the beach.
Continue, continue on along the shoreline.
Back to the circumnavigation and there's horse mountain just to my right.
Just a little ways behind me. Very beautiful. I love this corner, this corner of the island.
The southwest corner. It's pretty as fuck.
Hey, and there's some OLA trail markers. There you are, your mother fucker.
It's just ribbons, no arrows.
But yeah, it's a little tough to find really specific information about the island out to the OLA. It's hard to find much beyond the general overview.
But yeah, I don't know. I don't know where going up the mountain could possibly be or how it could possibly connect to being down here on the shore. Because yeah, I had to deliberately walk all the way around the mountain and it wasn't so easy. It wasn't the most comfortable thing.
But anyway, it's still nice to meet you. Sandbang, sand. Yeah, crazy, scary, weird looking mountain.
Wow, the walk along the coast across the street from the mountain is really fuckin' beautiful. I got to a point where I couldn't go any farther because the tide was up too far. There's a big rock cliff face in my way. I could almost get around.
It's deep, but not quite. But I only had to backtrack a little bit to find a path up into the little mountains by the shore. And then I bumped into the Olle Trail that I'm on right now. And I've just been following it along. And whenever there's like an opening behind me, right now, just turning around.
There's Sanbangsan. Super visible from many fuckin' places around here and just super gorgeous at all points, from all angles, from all sides. What an aesthetically pleasing fuckin' mountain. It's just fuckin' nice. Oh, here's a little, a little deck, a little view deck. Oh, and here I can see there's like a big port. Bunch of ships. Docked. Got a breakwater. And a spider on my hat. Let me put you over by some trees. Hop off, little spider. Come on. Come on.
Loves my hat. Off you go. I had to give him a gentle blow to blow him onto a leaf. I'm mildly concerned because I've got 500 milliliters of water and 500 milliliters of barley tea that I bought from a vending machine at Sanbangsan. And they're both almost out.
Back to super sweating. Had a little bit there where the weather got cooler, but now I'm just, you know, I've always heard about that thing of like if you ever stop sweating when you're in the desert or something, then you're about to pass out and possibly die because if you stop sweating, you know, you're dehydrated and that's like the worst. I've never had that happen. And I don't feel like I'm anywhere near that happening, but I guess that's the thing. I don't know. I don't know how long that takes, you know, since I've never had it happen. But, you know, I'm not far from civilization to hear a dog barking in the distance. I'm sure I'll be able to get to a convenience store soon. But yeah, shit. Today I very much feel like my liquids are lacking. Well, I guess it's because a lot of these times I'll buy like by two get one free coffees while I'm out on these journeys.
Because yeah, that adds a liter or so of extra liquids on top. And I guess I didn't do that today.
And there's some more smaller mountains in the distance ahead of me. Much more gradual, much less crazy looking than sunbang sign. Although there's a cliff coming up. There's like a big factory by the shore next to a sheer cliff. I think this is a good time to keep following the ole trail for a while because the shoreline, that doesn't look very fucking inviting. That is a serious ass cliff.
It's creepy when there's like an enormous giant factory and next to it is a cliff bigger than that, you know.
Scary. I guess they're about the same height. But factory towers aren't exactly short.
Oh, here's a little water park.
There's a water slide and some pools. But there is nobody there. It appears to not be open. That's slightly odd.
Because it sure is hot this time of year.
So I guess I did see some like lightning warnings possibly coming up for the next week, so maybe that's why.
Maybe they don't want to risk it when it's overcast. I don't know. There is water in the pools. Just no people.
So man, one thing now that I'm the proud owner of deodorant again, and I don't have to just carefully go all out my remaining deodorant like fucking Bob Cratchett cutting up a single bean.
And I learned something about deodorant that I mean I just piece this together myself. I didn't look it up specifically, but I was looking up more about the idea of how sweating and sweat glands just seems to be different amongst Asian populations, hence why they don't have deodorant. And I was talking to my friend Brad who lived in Japan for like three years that he said it was, you know, tricky to find deodorant. And he specifically is looking for unscented deodorant because the senti type perfume shit irritates his skin. And he said that was quite hard to find. But obviously the whole thing is nothing compared to Korea like way more accessible and available than here where it's just like ridiculous. You just can't get deodorant anywhere.
So I was looking it up and I thought this was an interesting way of describing this. There's a gene like the AA CC11 gene. I don't know. Some weird, you know, code.
And the way NBC News described it is that a large percentage like over 90% of Asians and especially Koreans. Apparently this is super even more common among Koreans have a quote unquote defect in this gene.
And because of the defect, their sweat glands don't produce this one particular thing that bacteria eats. And it's bacteria eating this thing, whatever the fuck it is, that causes sweat to smell bad. The residuals are what smell bad. But I just thought it was funny that they described it as a defect, you know. I have a feeling that the news in Asia might not describe it that way. I don't know the science of it. I guess technically if you have a gene that's supposed to do a thing and it doesn't do it, I guess that's a defect. But couldn't you say that ours is the defect? Like maybe that gene's not supposed to make that bacteria food. And it's a defect that we make it just because it's more common. I mean, it feels like the evolution is the Asian gene, right? It's clearly better. But I don't know. I don't know what else that might do or what it could possibly help with. I don't know if it has any value.
But I thought that was very strange suspect description. But once I learned that probably grade school level thing that I just never came across before and never knew that it's like, oh, so that's what makes sweat smell bad. The bacteria is eating your sweat and it's pooping something out. I always just assumed deodorant just covered up, you know, like a perfume that it just covered up the smell of sweat. But it's so mega different what I notice in myself when I'm wearing deodorant or not.
Because you know, it's just easy enough to just wear deodorant. I can't think of any particular times in my life that I ever had trouble getting my hands on deodorant till very recently in Korea. So I didn't realize like how bad I smell when I don't have deodorant is like really terrible. It's kind of like that's where I was like, I desperately need to find some deodorant. This is getting to be a deal breaker here. This is insane. No amount of washing off or just anything, anything I tried to do to counterbalance it was not working. I smelled very bad. So that made me realize deodorant must actually neutralize your sweat, you know, whatever that stuff is in your sweat that bacteria likes to eat. Having deodorant on your pits must, must wreck it, you know, must neutralize it, must ruin it. So the bacteria don't want to eat it no more. Again, maybe this is all super obvious stuff, everybody knows. But I didn't know I'm learning. I'm putting information together and piecing things together and I'm learning.
But yeah, it's great. I feel like the king of the world now, not only do I have deodorant. Now I'm kind of incentivized to use it up. I think I had a little more left than I thought I did on my North American deodorant. It's still not quite gone yet. I got to at least use that all up before I get out of Korea. So I'm just slathering myself in deodorant and it's like awesome. Like right now, I'm just the sweatiest person in the world right now. It's ridiculous. But I smell okay, you know, I smell like 5% sweaty. Where? Yeah, those days when I was not appropriately deodoranted. I don't know, I don't know what percentage to say. In the grand pantheon of bad smelling people, I don't know where I fall, but it's a... Let's do a pass fail system. I failed, big time fail, total fail, inappropriate to be around anyone levels. So yeah, deodorant is a lot better than I thought it was because I did just assume. I guess it's just like good smelly stuff that masks the bad smelly stuff. But no, it definitely does more than that. It does a lot more than that.
And I guess, I guess I should just thank Korea for having any deodorant at all. But it was weird to read this thing and apparently, you know, they don't know the exact numbers, but particularly in Korea. It could be up to 98% of people who just have this quote-unquote defective gene and just don't smell bad when they sweat. So it makes total sense given that situation. Why they don't have deodorant, but what about the 2%? What about those people? Well, I guess those people go to E-Mart and they buy the one kind of deodorant that they have there and they fucking like it. I guess I answered my own question.
All right, back into civilization.
Gonna go take a little stroll, see if I can't find somewhere to buy some motherfucking liquids.
Hey, there's sandbags on. In the distance, I have a feeling I'll be seeing that thing in the distance for a while.
Well, it seems like I haven't made it that far because sandbangsang is still right there looming behind me, but I mean also it's such a big imposing mountain. Maybe I'm farther than I think.
But the day is getting on a little bit. It's only a little after six, but that big cliff face that I saw, that heads to Huanggachian Bridge. And then beyond that, Wallabong Mountain, W-O-L-L-A-B-O-N-G. And yes, just this big spot on the map where there's this big, non-descript space for the mountain, but beyond it is a beach. But there's like not a lot on the map behind it or anything. It doesn't look like, I don't know, it looks like once I head in there, I'm just not quite sure what's gonna happen. Then there's another mountain behind it, and it's all a ways away from the bus route.
Yeah, now I definitely haven't made it very far looking on the map. I have hardly made it anywhere, but I'm just going from one mountain to the next mountain. And yeah, just hard to tell exactly what's gonna go on over at that mountain.
So I think I just got to save that for next time. I think I got to start next time by heading up into that mountain, because I got to give myself more time. Because I don't know what's the weight in. It could be a bit of a trek away from normal population stuff. Or it might not be, who the fuck knows. But too late in the day to start that shit right now. And I never did find a convenience store to buy any fucking liquids. So I'm just gonna go catch a fucking bus and get the hell out of here.
But I just got some random stuff that I had on my mind.
I was watching the YouTube channel Katie and Eric, KYDE and Eric, who are just this American couple who have lived in Japan for like 10 years. They live there permanently now. They have a house and everything. But they do travel videos. And Eric was mentioning how Japan is seemingly in the wrong time zone. Because I had been noticing lately here in South Korea, like it does actually get dark a little early in the summer, surprisingly early. And he was saying he noticed in Japan that in the summer, the sun comes up at like 4.30 in the morning. You know, it's like, if they shifted stuff, it would really help. Well, I guess that's why we have daylight savings hours in North America. You know, we actually change the times during the winter. It's annoying. But it kind of makes sense. Like, yeah, when it's getting light at 4.30 in the morning and dark at 7.30 at night, that ain't right, man. And that's not a good use of your day. That's awkward. But I don't know what a person could do about that. It's just how it is.
But also, I'm watching this series where he rides his motorcycle up through Northern Japan. And he was talking about barebells. Because that's one of those things that was always on my mind. Other people would walk by with barebells. But I mean, I just can't do it. I have like mesophonia. I have sound sensitivity. A repetitive sound like that. I would lose my mind. I cannot do the barebell thing. I just can't.
But he's been pontificating for many years about, do these barebells really work? You know? Like, is this really the best thing to do? So he was talking to a park ranger in Northern Japan at a park that has famously had bare problems. Like, before you're allowed to go to this national park, they sit you down and have a 15-minute presentation about what to do about bears. So he asked that lady and she said that human voices and clapping are better to alert a bear that a human is around. And she wasn't so sure that the barebell thing really was a good idea. Because there's not particular evidence that barebells send bears away. And there's maybe even potentially some evidence that barebells are like a dinner bell. You know, like it causes a bear to be curious and to come check out what that sound is. So I'm certainly not saying don't wear barebells. You know, hey, if you want to, if you feel safer, if it doesn't drive you insane to hear a repetitive noise all day, you know, don't take my fucking word for it. I think it's obvious at this point that I don't know shit about dick. I literally don't know anything. I'm just walking around pontificating about how deodorant my work. I'm an idiot. But that made me feel a little better just for my, on my part. Because it's just not going to happen. You know, I'm just not going to wear barebells. I just can't, I can't fucking do that all day. I might as well be poking myself in the eye with a sharp stick. It would make me nuts. So it's kind of nice to see the alternative opinion that it's okay if you don't wear barebells, you know. You're not putting yourself, you are putting yourself in danger by being around bears, but having a little bell jingling on you is not going to be the make or break in that situation. So I just thought that was interesting.
And then I guess just to finish off, you know, there's not a lot of English like I was saying earlier. Not a lot of English in South Korea doesn't pop up all that often. Especially not on the signs of restaurants. That's where I started to realize lately that I've been walking past sushi restaurants and past Vietnamese restaurants and stuff and just assuming that they're not prevalent in Korea just because they didn't have an English sign. So I didn't know that's what I was walking past. It's pretty fast and loose around here, like I was saying before as well. But on the way here I saw a hotel. Like I guess if it's just like a sign, just a cheapo sign or a little temporary sign or a pamphlet or something, it's like, yeah, let the English be all fucked up. Who cares? It's just always surprising when it's something bigger and more permanent, like you paid for a big sign. And in this case, English wasn't wrong. It was correct English. But it was this hotel that, along with whatever it said in Korean, had the English phrase, in big letters, like big letters across the entrance. What a rough day. You did a good job or something along those lines. I remember what a rough day for sure. And then it was something about, you know, good work. You did good work today. You did a good job. And I mean, this is one of those things. It's just like, I guess I get the idea, you know, it's like, hey, come rest your head after your long, weary day. Come to the end. But it's just such a, what a weird, I don't know. I guess what I find weirdest about that is that it's so patronizing, you know? I'm just like, oh, what a rough day. You did such good work today. Such hard work. Come rest your head upon my bosom. Come, come rest your weary bones. Let me patch you on the head for the rough day that you had. And it's like, what a weird, generic platitude. Oh, everybody just, it doesn't matter who you are. I don't know, I don't know what I'm talking about. Why would, of course, why would the hotel know the specifics of your day? I guess I wonder more about the customer. What kind of customer thinks that that kind of platitude is just like comforting. Oh, I did have a rough day. Oh, thanks for recognizing it permanent sign on the front of the hotel. I don't know. But I'm also realizing as I speak that I don't have a point. So let's not belabor it. Hey, there's the mountain. I can see it poking between. I can now I'm on like a real street. So I'm looking down the street. I can only see a bit of the mountain between, between all the buildings. But there it is. It's still there. Yeah, I didn't make it very far today. But this was still really cool because walking around the mountain was real pretty. Walking down the coast was real pretty. And yeah, the day just gets eaten up fast. I'm out of liquids. It's hot as fuck. And I'm heading into the fucking wild yonder into the great unknown. According to the little LCD screen, I got 12 minutes till the bus gets here. Not bad, not bad.
All right, back in Segwapo, I've realized that usually I get off the bus in the center of town. If I want to go swing by Mcdonalds or something, but I actually swing by Mcdonalds on the way out today. Instead, I was just starving to death. So I certainly don't need to do that twice in a day, but I realized I can get off early and just take this nice little stroll along basically the top of where the waterfall is by my hotel. You can swing by, see the view of the waterfall from the top. It's nice and quiet and pretty. It's a great place to get off the bus. Yeah, man, getting on the bus and it's all air conditioned and just sitting there and cooling down and then I start to realize just how ludicrously gross I am. Like, you know, like I was saying, the deodorant makes an enormous difference. But still, it's like, I got my hat sweaty, my little, I'm always carrying my passport and a spare bank card hidden in a just a little pouch that I have under my shirt. And then inside of that, you know, I had to put it in a plastic bag because it always gets so sweaty and so gross. I have to protect my documents from my gross sweat. That's all sweaty, but even my fucking wallet in my pocket, just I sweated through my pants pocket, the back of my wallets all gross. And just everything's gross. Like fuck. But yeah, that caused me to look up deodorant. Let's look it up on the bus Wi-Fi. So I was pretty close. Deodorants work by either killing odor-causing bacteria with antimicrobial agents or making your armpit too acidic to sustain bacterial life. So I had the details wrong. I thought maybe it damaged whatever the bacteria was trying to eat but not. It goes after the bacteria directly. But yeah, I don't know, give myself partial points on that. I halfway deduced what was going on.
Oh, and also that hotel. I caught that on the way back with the big English signout front. It says, what a rough day. Good job. So yeah, I don't know. I just I still find that. That's very silly.
Just a strange thing to come to your random hotel, the front of a random hotel for your comfort and acknowledgement of what a rough day and what a good job you've been doing. Anyway, whatever.
The last thing I guess I just wanted to clear up, I guess. I looked a little closer about the mountain and why I was so confuzzled today. I didn't know what the fuck was going on. Because you know, I was just saying like, oh yeah, trip advisor. They seem pretty good. They don't really steer you wrong. And then I went on a wild goose chase circling a whole mountain. But that's not trip advisor's fault. What I did is because I was just standing there in the intense heat connected to random mountain Wi-Fi and just trying to piece together information. It conflated some information because I was googling, you know, can you go to the top of Mount San Bang San. And then in the Google results, it pulled a paragraph from visitjju.net that says, if you wish to go to the summit of San Bang San Mountain, you can use the trail behind San Bang San Mountain, which leads to deoxuri yang hedong.
So I saw that. Then I clicked on trip advisor. And the trip advisor guy said, the Ola trail connects to this mountain. But all he was saying is that the trail, which I found, you know, by the coast, as the trail takes you along the coast, it passes by that mountain. So if you want to go up to the grotto and see that, it's right there. So it's just because I was quickly grabbing information in a slap dash fashion. I didn't realize that little quote that I saw on the Google search wasn't from trip advisor. That quote was from a different site. Then I went into trip advisor. My brain put the two things together, totally not right. So I went and looked more closely and I was like, oh, okay, actually that information was visitjju. So I went to that site. And it does in fact say if you want to go to the summit, go around the back, but additional information from January 1st, 2023 to December 31st, 2031. So this is a case of even if you're listening to this podcast in the future, you know, a lot of times I'll say like, oh, I found a trail that was blocked off. And by the time you're hearing this, it should be fine. Not in this case, all the way till 2032 functionally access is prohibited in certain areas of Sang-Bansan Mountain to ensure its protection. During this period, only the walking path from Sang-Bansan Mountain Ticket Office to San Bengal, Sagrado is accessible. Please take this into consideration when visiting. So there we go. That's the information that I needed. So yeah, what I did today, spend a dollar, go to the grotto, see the Buddha. That's what you can do. As conservation protection, you can't go anywhere else on that mountain until 2032 at the earliest. And who knows, maybe at that point they'll realize like, yes, it's fine. There's no need for people to be going up there. Fuck that. And fuck those people. So maybe even in the far future, if you're listening to this, maybe you still can't go. But yeah, so that explains it. That's why as I walked around, I could see no evidence of any way to go up the mountain because there is none. And I definitely couldn't see any Ole trail markers because I made that up. The Ole trail takes you to the front. It doesn't at all take you to the back. That was two separate pieces of information that my brain put together. So there we go. Mystery solved. Figured it's good to straighten that out.
So yeah, I'd say that mountain. It's one of those things like I kind of agree with both of the reviews. The reviews are either, wow, this is really cool. It's only a dollar to go see the thing. Or whatever. It's just a weird little grotto with some booties in it. You don't really need to go see this. I agree with both sides. It's kind of cool. It's all right. But it's not great. There's plenty of cooler stuff to do on Jeju. But I do think the general area is worth going to because just seeing that mountain is worth it. And the coastline by that mountain is fucking beautiful. So then if you're going to be there anyway, why not spend a dollar? Walk up to see the grotto. Why the fuck not? And here I am at the waterfall. Hey, looking nice.
Fairly large today, not like right after the rainfall is super heavy. But obviously it was all this overcast weather and I'll just wake up in the morning and see that it had rained the night before a little bit. You know, with just the general raininess. It's pretty big right now. Man, I love this fucking view. I love this. This is my single favorite thing. And this was one of the first things I ever saw on Jeju Island. Just came up to these stairs, was just walking around randomly. And I was like, is that a mother fucking waterfall down there? What the hell? And yeah, it's still the view of Hallison behind it.
I mean, it's all a bit relative though. I mean, if I was staying in Jeju City, then this wouldn't be my favorite little area on Jeju Island. It's just because my hotel is so close to here. I'm going to go down some stairs, see some nice beautiful views of the fucking shore. There's a convenience store right down there that I'm going to stop in. I've just been eating the hotel just has like free noodles. Every place I've stayed in Korea has free noodles and I just buy kimchi from the store to add in to spice it up a little. But I realized watching Katie and Eric again, they did an ancient series where they went to Korea way back in the day, and a more recent one where they came back. And just they were just saying how the store bought noodles really surprised them with how elaborate and awesome they were. But I'd never bought any of these like, you know, the noodles that come in their own bowl here in Korea because I always have access to noodles that all my places. But I was like, geez, if you're saying that coming from Japan, I mean Japan's pretty fucking impressive. So I figured I should at least try that out. So that's my plan. Just going to go buy some noodles, see how it goes.
But yeah, just this view of seeing the waterfall from up in the sky, seeing the fucking volcano behind it. Just being in this beautiful park and that I'm just a hopskip and a jump from here. To get back home, it's perfect. It's everything that I want. There's been many, many beautiful things on this island. Walking around this island has been awesome. You know, I'm very glad I'm doing this. It's just fucking, there's all kinds of places. You know, I could do my definitely top 10. Wonder, can I do a top 20? Top 20 might be pushing it because like there's a lot of parts that they're not distinct. You know, like I can't specifically say, oh, this part was awesome because of this. Because it's just a coastline, you know, it's just stuff that's generally beautiful. But I could do top 10 things around the coast of Jeju easy.
But yeah, all in all, just man, this little park. Looking down at the, I have to look up the name. I still have to look up the name. Cheon, Geon Falls. Because yeah, again, all the waterfalls and all the mountains, all the names are so freaking similar. It's ridiculous.
But yeah, looking down at the falls for free up in the park. I kind of feel like it was worth it to go down. Pay my admission to see them from the ground one time, even if not for that viewing particular. But just to sort of inadvertently pitch in to pay a little bit for all the times that I walk by here. I mean, I've walked by up here and just taken a gander at the waterfall 20 times easy. You know, it's right by my fucking house. It's by my, my Jeju house. Fucking delightful. Fucking wonderful. And then there's always these old people playing mini golf or whatever the fuck they're doing. Puttin' or something.
I guess I don't feel any particular kinship with them, but they're always here. So, hey neighbors, how the fuck you doing?
Yeah, this kind of neat too in a way. That's where it's, you know, like I was saying, as I walked around that mountain, it was definitely not quite the right thing to do because the eastern side in particular did not have a lot of space. The rest of it wasn't so bad, but you weren't really supposed to walk around it, obviously. But I guess that's kind of neat in a way because I got to walk around and see the mountain from all the different sides. And I wouldn't have done that if I hadn't messed up the information. It's kind of neat in a way to misinterpret information and send yourself on a wild goose chase, as long as it's not ultimately dangerous or a super dumb thing to do. If all it does is divert your afternoon to walk around the mountain, I just fucking worst things that could happen.
And yeah, I was just trying to gauge what little I could from the bus as I was going by of like what's coming up next.
And yeah, it seems tricky. It seems like I'm going to be a ways away from the bus for the time being. So I don't know what's going to happen there. Like once the day's over and I just have to escape, I think I'm just going to have to brute force my way back up to the bus route.
But again, if I got a pick between the two, because you know when I was just stuck where there was no space between the coast and the bus route when they were one in one, that was definitely worse. That was just walking along a highway that sort of sucked. Being too far away of the two options is definitely better. Famous last words. Watch me eat them starting next episode. I hope to see you then. Adios.
There's this little thing. This is like I was saying. I just got to go down some steps. And then there's this nice big convenience store right by the entrance to the waterfall. But there's this like... I don't know. I guess it's so you could do performances. It's like a little building.
With one open wall. But I've never seen anyone do performances here. But it just plays nice music. Never really commented on it before. But the sun has just gone down. And it's like projecting on the ground. It's just projecting a little blossoms floating through the air.
Anyway, I just headed down here. I went to the convenience store. There was an old guy working there who I've never seen him there before. But he was there talking to his old guy friend. I bought some... not only some noodles, but I also got this thing that's like a curry and rice, but it comes in the bowl. Like the noodles do. I'm not quite sure how to prepare this, but we'll see. Oh, the projector on the ground has changed now to fish. It's like I'm standing on a little pond full of fish swimming around under my feet. But yeah, these things are all pretty expensive. They ranged from about 250 to I think the most expensive one I got was like 450. So yeah, pretty rough. I'm mostly going to stick I think to just the the free noodles at the hotel and just add stuff to them. But I guess we'll see when I get around to eat in these. They probably are pretty good because that's surprisingly expensive. Korea is not usually a super expensive place. But yeah, these noodle bowls, these are definitely premium. And I also bought my first booze.
I haven't had anything to drink. The whole time I've been here, even though I think Korea is amongst the most hard-drinking civilizations in the modern world. It's pretty famous for how hard they drink.
But I just got new...
Horoyoi Peach. Only 3%. Oh, it's sun-tory. Look at that.
But yeah, in Japan, when you buy booze, you have to press a little thing on the screen to prove that you're 21. And I was wondering if that would be the case here. And I can't say that it's not. Maybe you're supposed to, I don't know. But the guy didn't make me do it.
Because I mean, I'm obviously an old man like him. And yeah, even though like him and his old man friend in there, Yammer in a way, I couldn't understand anything they were saying. But then as I sat down in there and had a couple things to eat, then as I headed out, there was another old guy by his cab, having a smoke. And just now that the night is cooling down, but it's still like humid and warm. It's like really nice out now. And you know, it's terrible to live with people who smoke. I haven't had that situation since I was in my early 20s, but I mean, that shit sucks. But just a little bit of cigarette smoke on the air as you walk by. It's something nice about that. That is like... I do quite that a lot with Japan and Korea. A lot more smoking going on, especially with the older generation than there isn't North America. And yeah, it's just kind of nice. And it's just that the old man vibe, I guess. I've been feeling the old man vibe this evening. And even though I can't talk to him, it's just comfortable. I feel like I got a minor kinship with old Asian guys, like I was thinking of like the guys that I saw hiking by the Desaifu government offices and Fukuoka and stuff. They probably don't feel that kinship with me. They probably feel the opposite. They probably feel like, get out of here, white guy, you're hurting the vibe. But I like it.
I can't quite put my finger on it, but I just like the vibe of hanging out by old Asian guys.
But alright, let me crack this open. And let's try my one and only drink in my time in Korea. I'm sure they'd be disappointed in me that I got a 3% peach drink.
Oh, it's peachy, alright. That's actually really good. The very first bit, I was like, oh, is this going to taste like peach perfume? But the aftertaste is delicious. It just tastes like peach juice.
What is this song, by the way? I know this song, but I have no idea what it is or where it originates from.
But maybe that's the thing that's kind of nice too, is I wouldn't say the music is bad in Korea. It's actually pretty good in general.
But it definitely leans to war, you know, obnoxious pop music. I mean, I think overall I do like, not a surprise, I guess with K-pop taking over the world, I do like the music in Korea overall better than Japan. Japan, I don't know, man. I mean, I like the occasional anime theme as much as the next guy, but the overall tone of Japanese pop music is like yikes. What is this? What even is this?
Although I kind of get the sense too that I think Korea's leveled up pretty fast because my friend Minu, who I met in the mid-2000s in Vancouver, I let him stay in my apartment for a while when he was in between places. We had a good time.
Yeah, he was one of my original Korean friends, him and a girl named Seunghee, who just had everyone call her Sunny. But yeah, we were not on the same page musically, me and Minu. I don't know, I showed him like some Elliot Smith songs, and he was just like, I don't know, it just sounds like the Beatles. Everything just sounds like the Beatles. And I was like, alright, I mean, you're not wrong. But what are you into? And he was big into Yani. And I mean, say no more, say no more, you know. It's just either you're a Yani guy or you're not. I'm not. I really thought his taste in music was terrible.
But yeah, it seems like in the ensuing 20 years, Korea's gotten a lot fucking cooler because they have some really cool music. But you know, still sometimes I'll walk by a crab restaurant blaring the most obnoxious like, love to love you baby! Terrible song. But overall, overall, I don't mind the musical vibe in Korea. In Japan, I found the best you could get was if they played something North American.
If they played, you know, some Taylor Swift or something, that was the best bet in Japan. Anyway, this is really good. And yeah, 3% that works for me. That works for me, brother. No more hard drinking for me, maybe ever again. But 3% on a hot night, surrounded by old men, could be a lot fucking worse.
Alright, thank you for listening. I'll see you next episode.
Thank you for watching.