Roaming Holiday Transcripts

This is an unofficial transcript site for the Roaming Holiday podcast by Keith McNally. All episode titles, descriptions, photos, and videos are the property of the author. About this site

#157 Circling Jeju nearly complete!

Areas discussed: Jeju South Korea, Jeju Olle Trail, Gunsan Oreum, Seogwipo, Seogwipo Gangjeong Cruise Terminal, Wolpyeong Port, Yakcheonsa Temple, Daepo Jusangjeollidae

1 hour 28 minutes Jeju Island, South Korea

All transcripts are machine generated.

Transcript

A beautiful shoreline sounds. So, last episode, I hiked up to the top of Gunsan Oreum, which I thought Oreum was just, I assume, just one of these many words I just kind of don't know, just random things that I assume I'm supposed to be aware of and just I'm not. But it turns out that all the little volcanic mountains here on Jeju, it seems that they're specifically referred to as Oreum. It's actually from the Jeju language and it's such a good word. I mean, especially around here, just the way these mountains look, where they're like a cap. You know, they're fairly wide, fairly easy to walk up. They tend to have a bit of a crater at the top and there's like 300 of them on this island. I believe even, I don't think Halasan the volcano is considered an Oreum, but it's the same kind of shape. It's just like an enormous one in the middle. But yeah, the Gunsan Oreum is the best one I had ever been to the top of. The view is literally 360 degrees completely unobstructed and luckily the misty weather passed just as I got to the top. Super lucky. And it was so good that I decided now is the time to flip-flop. Instead of walking in a direct counterclockwise pass all the way around the island as I've done so far for the first seven or eight tents, however far I am, now it's time to flip-flop. The Gunsan Oreum is so perfect that that's where, you know, I want to go back up there anyway. And it's the most epic view I saw the whole time. So it's the perfect place to end this circumnavigation. So now I'm going the other way. I'm going clockwise, which I did a little bit at first. In fact, when I initially had this thought, this idea of like could I possibly walk all the way around the island? It was because of this stretch. Walking west from Seguapo, the shoreline was so gorgeous that I was like I just want to keep going. I don't want to stop. But how could this be possible? And then I eventually came up with the radical idea of just taking the bus. Sometimes the the answer is so obvious that it alludes you for a bit. And that's what I've been doing. So this is nice because where I happened to stop last time was the road that went up to the stadium where Seguapo bus terminal is, where I've been transferring lately on my adventures. So now I can just get off there, walk down to the shore, and keep on keeping on from where I was way back when I started. So unsurprisingly, this is very familiar, even just going east from Seguapo. You know, obviously it's the same shoreline. So it has that feeling very much of the volcanic rock, but still in a kind of pretty beachy way where as you get further on, the volcanic rock becomes really harsh. And there's no one there but fishermen and stuff. Here, I mean, it's not like there's a lot of people, but it did say at least one hiker. And there's more greenery and there's like islands out in the water. It's still like I'm literally having to carefully walk over big rocks right now. It's a very tricky path and I am following the Ola trail. The marker is here, but it's also really pretty. Really fucking pretty. And weather-wise, the day after the Aureum, when I took a day off, rained all day. So it was a good day to take a day off. Today, the sky is clear. And I mean, it could be worse. It's only in the, I think the weather said it's in the mid to high 20s, like 26 degrees or something, but it feels kind of worse than that. It feels pretty hot. It feels pretty rough. But the trade-off is it's beautiful out. I kind of love on the way to the bus. Like when I first leave my hotel in the morning, I just go one block over and buy the shore. Buy the long park that leads to one of the pay waterfalls. And it's just such a great way to gauge exactly what kind of weather we got of what can I see off the coast. Sometimes the islands out in the coast are semi-obscured by mist. On the Gunsan Aureum day, they were so obscured. I couldn't even see them. Today, not obscured at all. I can just see out into the water, into the infinite ocean till it just disappears on the horizon. So this is still the best version of a clear sunny day. It's as cool as I think it can possibly get in mid-July.

But I am still, you know, if I could pick, I would still pick overcast. Heat is the killer. Heat is brutal. But on the other hand, it is fucking pretty.


Oh, there's like a teeny tiny little restaurant out here. It's just like a little like a little container box that's painted pink. And there's music coming from it. They have a menu outside. Oh, and washrooms next to it. Delightful. Because yes, speaking of washrooms, I passed a surfing school and I saw the surfers out by the shore preparing. I wonder if it's new people. Like maybe they're learning how this all works. This is a good-ass fucking day for that. Super, super beautiful out. And, you know, as you can hear, there's some waves. There's some okay waves.

They have the surfing school had a wet room with some bathroom stalls tucked away in the back. And I was like, oh, nice. Well, nobody's using this. They're all out by the coast. I'm just going to sneak in and use their washroom. And I already feel a lot better about today's adventures. Because this is just just an annoying thing about my annoying body. Try to use the washroom in the hotel. My body's like, no, I'm not ready yet. So then I go catch the bus. Drive to the Segalpo bus terminal. Try to use the washroom there. My body's like, no, I'm not ready yet. So then I walk down from there. And it's actually a nice walk. Walking down towards the coast, it felt a lot like when I was in Yokohama. And then I went to the coast. I can't remember any of the names of those neighborhoods anymore. But walking down toward that coastline with those surfers, this walk felt like that walk. It's just like, ah, man, walking toward a coast. What's better than that? Oh jeez, there's a person coming behind me and a person coming in front of me. I'm going to let both these people pass.

There we go. Everyone has passed.

But yeah, I got down here to the shore and started walking along the coast. And then my body was like, okay, I'm ready now. I'm all set for you to use the washroom. And it's like son of a fuck.

But luckily, there was a washroom and then that second washroom by the restaurant. So that bodes well for now at least. I'm not just in nowhere's land yet. This is all still pretty again with people passing me and stuff and surfing schools and whatever. I guess I'm just not far enough out yet for anything to be rarerally. This is still pretty touristy. Which is good for me.

Yeah, and I guess this guys in to the washroom is just what I ate yesterday. So since it was a rainy day, I had bought the other day some fancy noodle cups. And one was like a like a beef stew with rice, but it came in a noodle cup stout thing. And then a fancy noodle cup that was like grandads, authentic rice noodles. You know, these things were both like pretty expensive, like four bucks, four fifty. But I wanted to try them because I always just eat the noodles that just come with every Airbnb. All my uh, share houses here in Korea and this hotel. They all have different levels of stuff that they offer, but it's always at least noodles. Even the little place in Jechon. I didn't use any of their noodles, but they had some set it in the kitchen just in case. Just in case you need emergency food. So these were good. Definitely comparable to if not maybe even a little more elaborate than when you buy fancy Japanese noodles from a convenience store. I guess what I like about the Japanese convenience stores though is that it's a lot easier to buy extra stuff to add in. The convenience stores in Japan have a really nice array of little like, you know, side dish type stuff. Where Korea, despite being the land of the side dish, sometimes they have stuff, sometimes they don't. The difference is just that with Korean convenience stores, it's completely random. You just never know what's going to be there. I mean, just today actually I stopped at a convenience store up by the bus station to get some coffee. And they had a little cheesecake thing that didn't hold the candle to the Japanese little cheesecake things, but it was okay, but I've never seen it. I've been here over five months. Never saw that once in my life. You just never know what's going to be at a Korean convenience store. So yeah, these noodle things I stayed in because it was raining. So I ate on both my meals yesterday where these fancy convenience store cup noodle things. And they were both really good, but I think I guess what is more notable is that while they were good, they weren't exceptionally better than just the quote-unquote cheap noodles that are always just offered for free. Because I think it just comes down to like, they just don't have cheap noodles in Asia the way we do in North America. Like in North America, Mr. Noodles, you know, it's just considered the lowest of the low. Like I could have my numbers wrong, but as an example, like say you go to the grocery store and Mr. Noodle brand noodles are like 36 cents. But then you could get the no name brand and those are 24 cents each, you know, and it's literally just a package of freeze-dried noodles and a packet of powder and that's it.

Where I think stuff like that just doesn't exist here. You know, in my mind, I'm thinking of the low-level noodles as the base. But those low-level noodles are good here because I saw the same low-level brands that are at this hotel and were at my Airbnb's in Seoul and Busan. I saw those at the convenience store and they were still a couple of dollars, maybe a little under two dollars each. But you know, not 36 cents. None of that crazy shit. And they always have like a couple of packets of stuff inside. They have vegetable little, like a little vegetable packet with little dried vegetables and then a powder packet and they're just good. They're just real good. I have never had any issue with them at all. I never felt like, oh, this isn't a very good meal. Like especially if you buy some kimchi or something or in Japan, I would buy hard-boiled eggs and chicken breasts and bean sprouts and whatever.

But just, you know, especially when you add a little something to them, but even by themselves, they're just pretty goddamn good. Like the idea of a basic packet of noodles in Asia would be fancy for us. You know, it's hard to find good noodles like good freeze-dried noodles in North America. Even if you want to spend money on them, we just only have shit. We just want it to be cheap and shit. But here, it's the opposite. You can't get cheap and shit. The cheap one is a couple of dollars and it's good.

But that also makes sense why, like in this hotel in particular, like they had to move the shelf with the noodles over by the front counter. So it would be by the cameras because somebody was coming in and nabbing noodles. And I guess, yeah, like if every packet of those noodles is like a box 75 and there's a big shelf with like 50 packs of noodles on it, that could get very fucking annoying if people are consistently stealing new noodles.

They're not stealing the 24 cent pack of no-name noodles. So yeah, it was a neat thing to try out. But if you're Airbnb or wherever you're staying has free noodles in Asia, they're gonna be pretty good. Just buy a little side to go with them and you're all set.

Man, that place in Busan, the more I think about it, I mean the place was annoying. Well, it was annoying and good because it was a great location. The actual place I loved, like it was great. And it had like incredible food on offer. It had the noodles, it had rice, it had homemade kimchi, it had coffee, it had cereal. Man, that place was good, but it just had no air flow, no windows.

And constant mustiness and it's like, man, I'm really like not sure if those things balance out. Even that many great things and it was cheap. But even that many pluses with just, I mean, I had to like wear a COVID mask indoors while I was sleeping because the musty smell is just whether or not it's dangerous. It's just annoying. It just smells bad. And I just don't know that that's worth it. It's amazing how much that fucks shit up.

But I do miss the homemade kimchi. I've still been buying a, I kind of graduated to buying smaller packets of kimchi from the Korean convenience stores. The first I bought bigger packs that I put in a Tupperware. But it was a little annoying because no matter how much you try to seal your Tupperware, kimchi is so, it's such a powerful odor that it could never contain it. And then, you know, I got to eat it within a certain amount of time.

Instead, I found little individual packs. Again, the classic bite to get one free. They're like a buck 50 each. And it's just a little individual package you open up. It's got kimchi in it. You put that in your noodles. Bob's your uncle.

Yeah, that homemade kimchi. That shit was fucking good. So I met some arrows. And yeah, this is where I wonder if the heat is already boiling my brain. I've just been following little holy trail ribbons. But the first set of arrows I got to, I literally stopped and stared at them for a minute because I was like, not a minute, 10 seconds. And I was like, wait a minute, is this wrong?

The orange arrow is pointing toward me. And the blue arrow is pointing where I need to go. Did somebody mess this up? And then, my very slow brain was like idiot. You're walking the other way now. You're walking clockwise. Now you're a blue arrow guy. Just after all this time of always looking for the orange arrow. Now I'm a blue arrow guy. Now I got to follow the blue.

I'm heading up, away from the coast, through a farm. I've got to get so hot, so fast as soon as you're not by the coast. The coast and it's nice breeze makes all the difference in the world.

Although I did notice there's an alternate bus. There's a bus stop here. I'm not sure what bus line this is, but I think I might have to start learning it because I think for the rest of this journey, I'm actually going to be nowhere near the 202 bus. The bus that goes along the coast, because for this part, it just doesn't. It does not go along the coast. It goes pretty far inland. Oh, here comes the bus. 6.45 is going by.

Here comes the bus going the other way. A different color bus. What's this one? The 600.

That's one of the airport limousines. I think I took the 800.

That was a bunch. 696.951.520. A whole bunch of buses on this route.

Man, the little LCD screen at the bus stop says it's only 24 degrees. Is that true? Maybe. I mean, it has definitely been hotter. I guess I have no reason to think that the bus station doesn't know the temperature. That's very terrifying if anything. Maybe I've just gotten too used to the overcast weather, but this feels quite brutal.

When 24 degrees, this is actually nice. This is, again, like I was saying before, this is as nice as you could hope to have in mid-July. It can only get worse from here. Holy fuck. That's terrifying.

I'm just walking over a nice river right now.

Yeah, when I was in the washroom at the surfing place, just being out of the breeze, just a little bit I was in there. I looked down at my forearms and they're just like, wow, it's like, where's the breeze? Where's the air to wick away the heat? More sweat, emergency. Body, more sweat, and I'm just sweat, sweat, sweat, sweat, sweat. Then I got outside into the breeze again and it's like, oh, okay, okay, we'll be all right.

It's weird when places just remind you of other places. Just walking along up a slight incline, there's a 7-11 across the street. Maybe I should stop and get some popsicles, actually. I think I will, but this suddenly reminded me of when I lived in East Toronto in Atobico. This just looks like that. Weird.

Yeah, I'm going to stop in and get some fucking popsicles.

Well dang it. Yeah, there's a sign on the front door and I was like, okay, I can't read that sign, but I don't see anybody behind the counter. There's limited numbers of things that that sign could say. Does it say temporarily closed? Yes, it does.

Not the thing that never happens in Japan because there was up to employees. Here if an employee's got to go do something, I guess she just got to close up. Anyway, I don't know what the hell that noise is or where it's coming from, but that's a good reason to stop reporting.


Oh, my brain. My brain is definitely boiling today. I keep thinking about, you know, temperatures in Celsius obviously small gradations mean a lot more. But yeah, when I thought it was like 26 or 27 degrees today, then I found out it's only 24. I mean, it probably doesn't sound that bad, especially if you're raised on Fahrenheit.

What's the difference between 24 and 27? But yeah, there's a difference. It just feels like, oh jeez, this is 24. Oh no, oh no. It feels so much worse. I guess, though, humidity plays a big part. I mean, when I think of like what I think of 24 degrees as back in my homeland of Canada, you know, it's a dry heat. It's a different, different kind of beast. Better or worse, I don't know. Humidity, there's a niceness to it, but it does. I guess it is more suffocating and more oppressive. But yeah, I was just walking along. My brain was just rolling along and it was like, hey, did you say a Tobaco was in East Toronto? It's in West Toronto. You dumb idiot.

But yeah, jeez, walking by that 7-11 and getting that idea in my head that I could be eating popsicles right now. Oh, I think that fucked with me too. I wasn't even thinking about it until there was a 7-11 right there. And again, you know, Japan is just different if it was Japan. And I'd be like, well, who cares? I'll just go to the other 7-11. That's two blocks over or across the street or whatever. Here, I have not seen another convenience store. And I mean, I could at any moment, but also I could not. You never know. It's a lot more random. A lot more random in Korea, and especially on the shoreline of Jeju. Oh, here we go, though. Turning back toward the coast. I can see the coast ahead of me. Immediately feel the breeze. Fuck that helps.

But I walked by a second river where there's a bunch of people hanging out by the shoreline, doing rivery stuff, having fun. This is definitely, I mean, it's a Friday afternoon. And this weather is beautiful. I see people all over the place doing stuff, doing water-based stuff.

And I went by a big poster of like a big billboard of 10 things you can see, somewhat around here, you know, views. And there's some that I'll go by, just by accident, by being by the shore, but a bunch you'd have to go inland for. But it's like, yeah, man. I've seen an awful lot walking around the outside of this island, but it's cool that if you lived here. There's so much more you could do to see all the different potential landmarks and views and things around here. Take a lot fucking longer. I mean, this has taken a while to do what I'm doing, but it would take a lot longer to fully survey Jeju.

And that reminds me when I was at horse island at the southwestern corner of Jeju Island, there was a plaque there saying it was one of the 10 famous views of Jeju based on an ancient poem. And I managed to track down the poem. It was a little tricky. I don't remember the details right now. It's not a super famous thing. I just kept finding like 20 things to do on Jeju, you know, like current day blogs. It was a little tough to find this ancient poem.

But I tracked it down and I didn't write down all the details because whatever. But basically of the 10 things, I think I saw four of them just inadvertently by walking around the island. So not bad, man. Not too fucking bad. I'm walking by a tourist information building. How about where can I buy some fucking popsicles? How about that? Give me a convenience store, man. Oh, it sucks so hard that one wasn't open. Maybe I wonder. I mean, I don't know what that sign said. I guess I could have Google translated it. Maybe I should have, oh, wait, there's a 7-Eleven sign with an arrow. Maybe I should have waited around about waiting around in the sun for an indeterminate amount of time. It just seems crazy. It seems like you're begging for your own death.

But yeah, speaking of tourist stuff, last episode at the end of the episode, I found another one of these big tourist billboard things. They're not tourists. I found another one of these local things to see billboards. And one of the things that stood out a little bit was an action figure museum with a bunch of Marvel figures. Some of them were small, some of them were life sizes, all kinds of stuff. The kind of thing that it was just in the Busan citizen park, just in the park for free. And I looked it up and it looks like it's about 12 bucks to get in. And the reviews say, you know, you can see everything they got in like 30 minutes. They were like, yeah, you know, it's kind of cool if you got kids or whatever, but I wouldn't really say it's worth it. And that was more than enough to shake me off since I don't normally do that kind of stuff anyway. You know, I don't dislike Marvel, but I'm not like a huge Marvel guy. It's just like, oh, that's just kind of neat. That might be kind of neat.

But my concern is just to finish this circumnavigation. So I won't be heading there. Here's a like a walkway out into the ocean that has a big statue of a seashell at the end of it.

And the waves are way chopier now. It's like a breakwater and on the other side of it. Nice white choppy waves.

Oh, it's a cruise terminal here.

Seguapo gangion cruise terminal.

And a cafe. Got to make sure there's not a 7-11 down there. No, okay, good. That's not where the 7-11 is. Oh, well, maybe it is. I don't know. The arrow's pointing that way. Where the fuck? Where's my 7-11? Come on, man. Is it really hidden down here?

Man, I met a weird crossroads. So I just went and peaked ahead of me a little and I don't see 7-11. I'm walking down toward this cruise terminal. It would be a long walk to get all the way down into the depths and I don't see a 7-11.

But then also the Ola trail is now doing one of its classic, hey, go up through this farmer's field. It's like I just I don't think I can do that today, sir. It's so fucking hot. I gotta stay on this road by the shore just so there's breeze.

I will die if I go up there. So hopefully the walk along the coastal road continues unabated. Under construction, please take a detour.

Well, I'm just going to keep walking. I'm just going to keep walking across my fingers because, yeah, man, it gets, it's incredible how hot it gets when you're out in these fields. Like that's the, you know, the thing I brought up many times that I saw a recommendation not to do this Ola trail this time of year. And I think that's good advice and that's generally true. But by the coast is not nearly as bad.

Going inland and walking through one of these fields, it gets so much more hot. It's just incredible. I'm not doing it. And yeah, that sucks balls about the 7-11, but I think I think that's why there were arrows. I think it is hidden down in that cruise terminal complex somewhere. So that's why they needed arrows. Yeah, here's another arrow now pointing back the way I came. It's down there somewhere, but oh well.

Being teased and being teased by 7-11 today.

It's all right. I got some bottle of coffee in my pocket. I got water in my other pocket. Just don't think about a man. Don't worry about it.

Zen out. The next convenience store will be here before long, but I got to just put it out of my mind.


So this is nice. It seems like I can walk along the coast. I don't know what the detour thing was all about, but it seems like no problem. It's a nice coastal road. It's actually pretty quiet. I don't fancy my chances of finding a convenience store, but that's okay. I've already moved on. I've already reached enlightenment. But yeah, it's really pretty. It's just this nice coastal road.

It was palm trees all along it, and the nice coast on this side was the crashing waves. The way it looks with the blue sky and everything and just some nice clouds. I guess coming from Canada, my main exposure to this kind of scenery. I just think of like old sitcoms that were set in Miami. It looks like TV to me. It's like, wow, look at this. How is this real? It's fucking beautiful. But not only that, I turn the camera corner, and I can see down the coast. And there's a big-ass fucking mountain. Way in the distance. And it's like, well, that's gotta be fucking sand-bang-sand. The one with the Buddhist grotto, where you're not allowed to go up the top. Yeah, you can even see from this side. It's like really steep on the front edge, but on the back edge, you could much more easily walk up it. It's gotta be what that is. So then there's another pretty big mountain.

Ahead of it, so I'm guessing that's Goonson. But then there's another bigger one. To the right of that, that's closer. I don't know what the shit that is. Unless that's Goonson. I'm not sure. Like, I'm not sure if there's another relatively large mountain between me and the end of this journey. Or if that's it, but it sure does look big. No, that's definitely different. Because I'm thinking of when I was on top of Goonson, and I was just looking around at the full panorama. I did see a mountain that I thought was halasand in the distance, but maybe it wasn't. Maybe this other mountain I'm looking at, you know, just because it was the biggest thing in the proper direction from where I was. I thought it was halasand, but halasand, halasand's really far away. Like, you know, I'm looking over toward it right now. I mean, it's way in the distance.

So I think I was seeing that other mountain and mistaking it for halasand. I don't know what that is. Anyway, I'll do some research later, but I might have one big-ass mother-fuckin mountain ahead of me, although. Maybe it's not so terrible because sandbank sand is behind it, and it's still taller. That thing is a monster.

So maybe whatever I'm looking at isn't that bad, but it looks it. From here, it looks quite imposing. But that's cool as fuck. I mean, if I'm looking at the right stuff, which I think I generally must be, because I looked at this from the opposite angle last time. You know, I looked down the coast, and I didn't really see much coming up, which makes sense. That's where I am now. You know, leaving Seguapo, there were no major elevations. All the way in front of me, no major elevations. So then all those big mountains I'm seeing over there, those are all the ones I was on before.

It's pretty crazy to just see in the distance like, well, there it is. I gotta make it, right? What is the date today? The 24th of July is when I've got to leave. So the 23rd is my last possible day. Today is July 12th.

And I mean, if I can see the end from here, that's the end, man. I gotta make it. I have to. I have to. I mean, I'm looking and I'm like, okay, I gotta walk all the way along this, and then all the way around this other thing, and then we're all around this coastline, and then around this next thing, and then there's this mystery mountain. What I mean, I can see it, dude. I can see it. Surely I'll fucking make it.

As usual, Saturday is my colon home day. I'll be taken tomorrow off, but I mean, besides that, if I just had to gun it, just gun it every day. There's just no way. I can't imagine how I won't make it at this point.

Yeah, that was quite a surprise. I didn't expect to turn the corner and just see all those mountains. And it's just so cool that they're so, so distinct. It's like, well, that can only be, can only be Sandbang Sand, that big, crazy, evil ass mountain.

That's no fucking orium. That's like goddamn mountain. Hey, and there's a Ola trail ribbon. Hmm, I wonder. It's so weird when, so I guess, I guess it was just that farm I just looped around. It just made you pop through there. Again, who knows what mysteries I may have missed, but that one really looks like it was probably just a field. I don't know. I don't know. Why would you not want people to see this coastline? It's fucking insane. They make the weirdest choices. Like, sometimes it's excellent. Sometimes it's an amazing thing that you're glad you saw. And sometimes it's like, are you high? Are you fucking high? The coast, I feel like, should always take precedence. And then if you have a century's old horse path made of cobbled stones and stuff, yeah, yeah, take me to that. That's worth it. If you have an amazing mountain, take me to that. That's worth it. Otherwise, the coast, are you kidding?

I want to make my own version of the Ola trail, the Keith trail. You know, generally the same, but with a few small, but coast leaning alterations.

But I wonder where it came out. You know, I didn't see the exit point. Just suddenly we're back on the Ola trail. It's like, huh, when did that happen?

But yeah, being by the coast for a bit, having a consistent breeze. Now I believe in the 24 degrees. That feels about right. I'm not excessively sweating. I'm not, I feel like my brain's not melting anymore. It actually feels pretty good. She feels pretty fucking good.


Yeah, you know, now I'm walking inland. I got a story about that, but yeah, I'm looking at Halasand in the distance. And yeah, there's no question when I was on Goonson seeing the panorama. That mountain I thought was Halasand was definitely not. Halasand is so far away. It's way far from here. So yeah, that mountain I thought was Halasand, which was big enough to trick me. That's still between me and the endpoint. That's eerie.

But it's kind of surprising to me how often something will happen in this podcast and then like a response happens very soon after. It's probably not really happening. It's just that my mind is primed for whatever topic and then it just seems like, oh, now the opposite's happening. But yeah, I was just saying how I didn't want to go inland. I didn't want to walk through a farm. Why are you doing this to me, Ole Trail?

But now I'm walking inland and I'm walking through a farm. And yeah, it is indeed much hotter. I'm getting low on water. I had more than enough water.

Yeah, I'm just looking for Ole Trail. Is that the arrow? Yeah. Thank you.

Yeah, it was tricky. It's like a whole weird intersection. And it's just like, oh, you'll figure it out. There's an arrow way in the distance.

Yeah, I had enough water on those overcast days, but I need to double up from here on in. I probably should have just walked down into the detour to get to that 7-11. But I still got a coffee once I ran out of water. But yeah, it's not super-duper terrible hot, but it's not not hot. But I got to another arrow pointing inland. But this one had like a big elaborate sign with like a map and everything. Like it was definitely saying something legit. So I pulled out my phone, did the whole Google translate, and it looks like as of 2022, there's a bridge coming up that they're working on. I don't know how long it takes to make a bridge, but I guess two years at least. Because it's 2024, is I record this? And apparently it's not done. And it said, yeah, you know, for your safety, please take this detour.

This must be weird, like for the person I just passed. I passed quite a few people farming. You know, I don't think this is a permanent Ole trail. They've just temporarily had to take on the burden of dickhead tours like me for this detour.

But yeah, it said, there's bridge construction coming up. And then when I looked ahead of me, there was also a just do not enter sign. Don't go this way sign for even the traffic. So that could explain why this coastal road has been so slight with the traffic.

And you know, as much as I like to struggle against the Ole trail and stick to the coast, I don't want to be a dick about it. You know, if it seems like it's just two options and one of the options is go inland and maybe see some stuff or stay by the coast and see the coast, I'm happy to do the coast. But if there's an actual reason, if there's a big sign, if there's a big warning, they're just saying, look, don't do this. Don't go that way. I'm not a fucking asshole. I'm not going to deny that. So here we go. I'm walking inland. I'm walking through a farm. Oh, and it is hot. I'm feeling it now. It's starting to build on me. Again, just then, just walking then. Don't think about it. I think I'll walk about. Find out. What is all about? BAM BAM BAM BAM BAM BAM BAM BAM BAM BAM BAM BAM BAM BAM BAM BAM.

You know, it's nice enough. Oh, bamboo. Look at that. But yep, it is just a farm, man. Getting the real, I'm getting the real experience. Forget all this tourism.

Fucking, oh, go walk the trail, shit. This is just a temporary detour through a farm.

Some of the other farms that I've been detoured through, you know, there's like little things that will pop up. Like, here's the, here's a place where they used to make fires for smoke signals back in the day, stuff like that.

Not this one. This one is 0% interested in trying to cater to me. It's just a farm.

Farm life. Farm life. Alright, stop rambling. You fucking brain-boiled moron. Just shut up and walk. Get through this detour. Get back to the coast.


Oh yeah, just another one of these little things that just seems like, you know, things that are on my mind start popping up around me. Again, just coincidence, but it feels like they're connecting. I've mentioned a few times how this hat, this big wide-brimmed sun hat that I bought, that is what all the locals wear. And it just, it's a game changer. I can't believe how many days I walked with just a cap with only a bill in the front.

At a dumb little flat cap. It wasn't even like a baseball cap. It barely even had a brim.

As noticing, my ears getting a little burned and stuff. This big wide hat is the truth, man. It's not optional. It's very necessary. But every time I walk by a, like a traffic mirror or something, or I catch my reflection in a window, I'm like, yeah, doesn't look good though. I don't know. It looks good on the locals. I look like I'm even bigger, gokier, idiot than usual. But I mean, you know, again, I don't even know why I bring it up. Like, who cares? No one cares what I look like ever any time. They extra don't care here.

Another intersection where the Ole marker is in the center of the intersection. That's not helpful.

Okay, well, this seems like the most developed way to go. Oh, and there's a guy. I hear someone coming down it. Old guy on a scooter. That's gotta be the way.

This actually reminds me a lot of, I have like a lot of uncles and aunts and cousins, like tons.

Yeah, there's the next marker. There's a bunch of them that live in pretty rural parts of New Brunswick. No actual farmers, but a lot of mechanics. But this reminds me a lot of like their properties and kind of what it feels like to go visit them.

It's very similar. It's kind of comfy in that way.

That old guy picked up an old lady and then they just went by again. I wonder if it's the same situation here in Korea as in Japan. I've been hearing a lot about Northern Japan and stuff. There's these farms that are like not small farms. They're like mega farms. And I mean, I don't know what, designates farm sizes. But for instance, this one I'm on now. It's not little. Everywhere in every direction I can see is all greenhouses and farming stuff. But I don't see any young people. And yeah, apparently that's very evident in Japan.

It's like all people like the young guys quote unquote are like 50. And the question is, you know, who's gonna work these farms for the next generation? Who's gonna take this over? Certainly outside of my sphere of understanding. But I wonder if it's similar here in Korea. But yeah, the hat. Whenever I catch a view of myself, I'm like, yeah, I just don't like how I look in this hat. I just don't. But if I was in elementary school still or even junior high, I would probably just because you know, it's like, oh, no, I don't want to be embarrassed. I don't want people to make fun of anything. I'm not gonna wear gloves in the winter in case someone makes fun of me. I'm well beyond that. I'm not gonna sacrifice safety and functionality for how I look. But I do think I look dumb. And it's just funny that I'm not the only one, the only North American white guy who feels that way. Because I was watching family guy clips on YouTube last night. And one of them was Joe Peter and Quagmire were sitting out on a boat out in the middle of the water. And it's all sunny out. And they're just sitting in chairs. And Quagmire takes out a great big wide brimmed floppy hat and puts it on. And the other two were like, what the hell is that? It's like, it's a sun hat. And they just go, no, no, no, you're not wearing that. Get that fucking off. And he's like, no. You know, protects my neck. It protects my ears. It's perfect. And they literally wrestle him to the ground and fight him to tear off his hat and throw it in the ocean. They're like, no, you sit here. You can wear suntan lotion and just sit in the sun with us. And those are the family guy jokes that I feel like age the best. When it's just something very idiosyncratic, just like such a weird little observation. And that was one of them of like, yeah, I don't know why I don't know what's in our stupid cultural DNA. But it's just not cool for a dude from North America to wear a big floppy sun hat. It's just not cool. It's like, you're not going to do that. We're not going to allow you to do that. And yeah, just for whatever reason, I got that in me. I'm like, man, this hat looks so dumb. But it's great. It is a great hat. It has increased the ease of this journey by like tenfold, like incredible. I can't even imagine like at this very moment if I was wearing my other cap and my ears were just exposed to the sun. And just this little brim that didn't cover the back of my neck at all, barely shielded my eyes. What a terrible, terrible dumb little hat. You know, this thing rocks. I love it. Just looks stupid.

That's something else I noticed recently. It's like took a little while for it to sink in because it's hard sometimes to notice the absence of something. But I noticed in Seoul there were an absurd number of mirrors. Mirrors all over the place. Like there'd be all these, you know, the exercise equipment set up in the woods, which seemed like a bad joke in the wintertime. Anywhere where there was like a mountain or there was a cool hiking thing or there was a park. There was tons of exercise equipment. And I was like, yeah, this is really cool. Theoretically, I think this is awesome. It's so neat that there's so much availability of equipment and exercising outside. It's just way cooler in needer. It feels more natural. It feels a lot better than going into a gym. But it was the horrifying pollution of the wintertime. And you know, it's just like, this seems like a bad joke. Why is all this stuff here when you'd have to be nuts to come out here and do exercise and breathe deeply of this death air? But I bet this time of year it's really nice. Like I bet now it's a lot more sensible and a lot better makes a lot more sense. Wintertime in Seoul is very fucked.

But I got to the point where I don't remember seeing any mirrors on Bukhonson, but everything leading up to that.

I'm just walking by a little stream now up to another road with much more traffic.

But yeah, even quite deep. I mean, I guess even just the foothills of Bukhonson, like where I'd be walking through in the winter when it snowed. Some of my favorite walks, they were so beautiful. But I'd be walking like some time out of civilization and up through this snowy mountain and just like, yeah. And then I'd just come across a little mirror, you know, like a little shelter, a little roofed area if you need to take a break. And it would always have a mirror. And I have heard, you know, that Korean society is very body conscious. Very, the beauty standard is definitely in effect. And yes, all those mirrors everywhere. And I guess I saw less in Jechon and less in Busan. And it just doesn't happen here on Jeju. But it took a long time for me to realize till, you know, till I saw my reflection in a highway mirror or in a reflective window. Or one of those annoying, it's like annoying the tinted glass here. You legitimately can't tell if there's someone sitting in a car sometimes, which is just like if a car is parked on a corner. I just want to know, is it safe to walk in front of this car? Is it even, is there someone in there? And you can't tell because there's stupid fucking tinted windows. But you can see yourself in them. And yeah, it just occurred to me the other day, like, oh, that excessive mirror thing. I think that's just a soul thing. Pops up here and there in the other places, but not like soul. Soul, it was like a weird level. So like, why is there a mirror here? That is the last thing someone needs to do right now. Is check their my fucking makeup. But I guess I'm saying that not being a denizen of soul. Maybe it would be crazy not to be able to check your makeup on the mountain. Like, what am I talking about? What if I get smudged? What if I get smeared? What if I don't look my tip top best while I'm hiking? Crazy talk.

But all right, I'm on a more proper road now. Will it be proper enough to have a convenience store? I don't fancy my chances. But hopefully I'll get back to the coast.

In fact, I think I'm connected up again to that bus route. Let's see. Let's see. This bus stop is coming up. What are the numbers?

Because yeah, this is good to see that there is a bus near here. I don't necessarily have to walk all the way up to the 202, though I still may. We'll see because the 202 will take me directly back home. Yeah, 521, 532, 645, 690, 651, 652. Because I presume these will all take me to the Seiguopo bus terminal. Hence it being a bus terminal.

That will be better than nothing. Much better than nothing. So I guess I didn't mention that walk last episode. That got pretty bad. My theory that it would get dark just as I was coming back in for our landing, coming back up to civilization. It got dark way before that. And there just was plenty of places on that road where there was just no room for a pedestrian. And there were LCD lights along the edges of the road, the whole way, and some street lights. It wasn't terribly lit. But you're just not supposed to be walking on it. And once it got dark, that got even more uncomfortable. And yeah, I had to walk through that pretty fully dark version of it for at least 20 minutes. I did not like it.

And then unexpectedly, where I ended up at the end, where I caught the bus home, was the same spot where...

where I came out from behind the caution tape. And the four young men took my lead and went down and passed the caution tape. It was right at that same spot. Yeah, basically the Ole trail had taken me in a figure eight, because from there...

I'd gone east up Goonson, but then it had taken me west back down Goonson, and then cut west to the centuries old horse trail, and then down to the coast. And then I was supposed to continue along the coast, but since I cut back up, I ended up right back where I started. Very unexpected, but yeah, not the greatest thing I've ever done. Not the least dangerous walk I've ever had. So yeah, if it does get dark, it's nice to know that there's an alternate bus route that's quite accessible here. I don't have to walk way inland after a point when it's no longer safe to do so.

Ole's pointing me back into farmland, but I'm way past where that bridge is. Walt Piong Port is where it said the bridge was being built. I have a way overshot that, so I'm safe to keep going.

This is just a normal Ole arrow, a nice gentle suggestion arrow. It's not a great big sign with many warnings.

So fuck you, Ole. Fuck you again. I'm just walking straight on.

And I wonder, I mean, this is a bus route. Not just one route, either. It's like multiple buses. I can see quite a way ahead of me, and I don't see any convenience stores, but I mean, come on. Come on, there's got to be one. There has to be. Come on.

Okay, here's another sign with an arrow. This time it's a happy to see you, which has kind of become not like my extreme favorite convenience store chain in South Korea. It's just a little more. It's just edging out the others just a bit.

200 meters ahead. All right, this time I'm doing whatever needs to be done. I'll follow any detour you want. Just keep pointing me arrows. I hope you have plum popsicles, but I pre-forgive you if you don't.


Well, that went pretty well. They didn't have plum popsicles, but that's okay, because I pre-forgive them, for not having them.

But yeah, I think I found out a technique that I think works pretty well for navigating the extreme complication of the summertime ice cream bar deals in South Korea. As long as you don't mind denying excessive amounts of ice cream and popsicles. So it's just a quaint little happy to see you store. Nobody else was in there, so I thought I would really take my time and examine the schematics for which different deals apply to which popsicles. Because there's all kinds of different popsicles. It's totally random, which ones will actually be in stock, and they all have different deals. So there's one that is by five, get 50% off the whole lot that I've never done before. But as like today, I will happily buy five popsicles. Let's do that one. So I have to take out the popsicle and then hold it up against the diagram. These little teeny pictures and try to figure out if it is one of the ones that applies. So I had my five popsicles and I bought a liter of water and fancy pants, Starbucks latte, so I'd have a cup to put my melty popsicles in while I eat them.

Oh, here's a barbecue restaurant with some lilting piano music.

But what I realized is you can watch the screen as things are being rung up and it'll show what deal is happening. So the lady scanned my water, scanned my Starbucks. That was four bucks, three bucks for the Starbucks, the dollar for the water.

And then popsicle one was the big 50% off, if you buy five, symbol came up, which again I translated that beforehand. And I already knew what that meant because it's not in English, but I already knew that one. Then the second one. By five, 50% off, awesome. Third one, awesome. Fourth one, awesome. Fifth one, the moment of truth, she scanned that and a different graphic popped up, but it was a buy one, get one free. So I was like, oh, hold on, just wait a second.

I know how to fix this, so I just hopped over and I just got second copies of the stuff that I had already gotten. So the buy one get one free. I just grabbed another one of those, scanned that in. It's just for free. And then just an extra, what is all this stuff? I got like strawberry popsicles, melon popsicles, and the buy one get one free. It looks like it's pear. It's actually not a normal popsicle. It turns out it's one of these ones that's like after you open the wrapper. The bottle inside, very cold on the hands. So having the cup could be handy for that too. Because I got one of these when I was stranded in the middle of the night and it froze my fingers off. It was an orange one that time. But yeah, I just grabbed another melon one because I mean I didn't really want three melon popsicles, but just whatever. I do love the melon popsicles and I just needed one that I knew fit into the buy five get half off. I got something else. What if it's yet another deal? You know, what if it spins me off on a different buy two get one free track? I just like to just complete the track, just complete the previous one. So that triggered the buy five get half off. So in the end, I got the fancy pants Starbucks latte, the water, and seven different popsicles for under 10 bucks. Not fucking bad. So the seven popsicles were like, like about 550. Pretty good, but the thing with this plan is, yeah, it's a nice way to sew up your mistakes because you don't want to buy four popsicles and not get the fifth one. That's like a financial disaster. You're paying more and getting less. But the downside to this plan is that it does lead to excessive popsicles. Five would have been kind of a lot. Seven is an awful lot. So much so that the lady, she was making change her son probably came in a younger guy and she said something that involved the words ice cream. And I mean, I assume she's saying something along the lines of man, this fucker bought a lot of fucking ice cream. But if there's ever a day that I'm okay with that, this is it. And yeah, I think this is kind of neat because like I wouldn't have wanted to try to explain. Even as I was laying them down, I did kind of like, I held up the five fingers to try to sort of explain like, I mean, I said it in English, but of course that means nothing, but as like the, you know, the five deal, I'm trying to do the five deal, but I'm not sure if I did it right, but I don't think she understood it all what I was saying. If she even realizes what the deals are for popsicles, she's an older lady, she probably doesn't give a sweet shit. But I wouldn't have wanted to try to explain like, okay, never mind, take this one out. Let me replace it with this. You know, that's just, that's going to add confusion and complication instead, just add to it. Add one more to the buy one, get one free, add one more to the buy five, get half off. And then both deals, egg night, like you've completed a combo in a video game, and it all works out. Yeah, in this way, it's kind of a lot easier to do it on the fly like that with the aid of the machine than it is to examine these hieroglyphics. I mean, I really am not exaggerating about how complicated. Everything else in the store, it's so clear. Buy one, get one free, buy two, get one free. If anything, it can only be a bonus. I was at a GS25 the other day. And I bought a fancy ass latte brand I'd never seen before that looked all cool. I think it's a new thing. But because it's new, it's supposed to have a buy one, get one free sign. And it just didn't yet. So as he was ringing me up.

The clerk just went over to the shelf and just got a second one. In fact, that's what happened. That's when I first learned how this all worked.

Because I bought two, a cafe las in Seoul, and the guy just went over and got me a third one. And that's when it occurred to me like, oh, that's what two plus one means. And then I understood, in the rest of the store, it can only be like a good thing. If anything, it's just like accidental bonuses happen. It's very clear. The popsicle rack is a whole different thing. Man, it's fucking complicated. It's fucking annoying as fuck. But yeah, as long as you're willing to just add on to your order, that's a really good way to piece it all together. And I just walked past a huge Buddhist temple. It was fucking gorgeous. She let me walk back toward it. What the fuck was that? Do I want to walk all the way up and see it? Probably not. Probably just walking by is okay, but it is really beautiful.

Also, my hands now are full of, you know, I've got my Starbucks cup filled with popsicles. And then I'm holding a bag on my wrist full of more popsicles. Not really the time to go walk through a temple. But this one, it's a Yak Chianse temple. Y-A-K-C-H-E-O-N-S-A temple.

And it's fucking beautiful. It is really beautiful. I mean, you really can't beat those temples that were on Bukhansen, just because they were on a huge mountain, you know, like that setting just automatically makes them the best. And some of those coastal ones in Busan weren't too shabby, but I think just as a building. This is the prettiest what I've seen in South Korea. That is a gorgeous fucking building.

Maybe I'll go look up a YouTube video later, see if anybody did a walk through. You never know though, sometimes there's stuff, sometimes there's not.

I just fucking pretty though. But yeah, I am so laden with popsicles that are melting as we speak. It's like, this is the weirdest possible time to go. Hey, can I go look at your temple? I promise not to get popsicle drippings everywhere.

Speaking of, my job now is to overeat on ice cream, so wish me luck.


Alright, back to the shore. This is one of the areas very similar to West of Seguapo, where the cliffs are really severe. And the waves are all crashing, but there's a whole park set up here where there's a walkways. Cultural properties, protection zone, no drone flying, no smoking. Yeah, there's like walkways all along the edge of the water. It's very freaking pretty.

So yeah, that was definitely an excessive amount of ice cream feeling in my belly a little.

But I certainly don't regret it. That made the walk just made the whole day way more fun. But of course, everything's melting as I'm trying to eat it. And I can only fit three ice cream bars in my Starbucks cup at once, of my seven things. Though I guess there's only five of them that were on sticks. But by the final melon ice cream bar, it was just so melty that like half of it just fell right off its stick onto the ground. And real briefly, I was like, well, you know, that's the side that fell down. I could take my stupid fuck in there. I could take my popsicle stick and scrape a little off the top. That's still fine. And then I'm like, what are you talking about? This is your fifth ice cream bar. Yeah, fat fuck. Just let it go. Let the ants eat it.

But then the bonus items I bought, the buy one, get one free. That thing was actually really annoying also because it was a bit melted. But it was the pear thing. It was kind of tasty because it was pear flavored. But they opened the wrapper and then it's in this plastic, like a little plastic, I don't know, bottle shape. But it's really hard to get the top off. And in fact, the little tab that was supposed to tear the top off. I mean, I guess it's got to be pretty secure, right? Because otherwise stuff will leak everywhere. But the tab came off and the top didn't. I had to pull it off with my teeth. But since there's already starting to melt in there, there was liquid up to that point that I couldn't do anything but have splash all over me. And that happened with both of them. So they were kind of tasty. But I got pear juice all over my hands.

Oh, and speak of the devil. I think I'm actually at a washroom. Oh, wait a sec. What is this?

Maybe not because this is a fairly elaborate with an entrance. I know somewhere around here. There's another pay waterfall. Am I there already?

Because whatever this is, it's certainly not currently open. It's a little after six o'clock.

No, this is not the waterfall. This is...

Jews saying, Geola Day? I have no idea what this is.

Closing time 530 tickets, but tickets to what? The fuck is this? Okay, I think I can get access to the washroom though, so whatever. I'll figure this out later. But yeah, just that I had pear juice all over my hands. Very unfortunate. And for the first time ever, I got turned away from a washroom. I think it was similar to the washroom I saw earlier that was just kind of like to the side of a little restaurant. It was like that, where there was a restaurant. And then I think their washroom was like outside of the building. But yeah, this guy was right on top of me, right out the door as I was walking up his steps. And he's like, no, no, no, no. And he started pointing back behind me. Apparently there was a washroom back there somewhere, but I was like, I don't know what you're talking about, because I walked past there and I didn't see anything. I tried to stay polite, because I still stick with my philosophy of like, you know, act like you're trying to be invited back. Don't be rude to people.

But if I had had even just a couple of words of Korean, I would have tried to say like, look, I don't even want to use your washroom. I just want to wash my hands. They're covered in sticky pear juice stuff. But I had no way to argue my case. So I just said, okay, whatever. You know, I just said, well, that's as rude as I get. I just said, whatever. And I just walked away.

But then, you know, as I was thinking about it, let's breathe. That's Kalye as I was walking away. I was like, actually, though, that was fine. I mean, it's a minor thing that I didn't get to wash the pear juice off my hands. Imagine if that had happened. Again, this is the only time that's ever happened that I've been denied a washroom. What if I really needed a washroom and that happened? That would be terrible. This situation is nothing. It's just annoying because my hands are sticky. And I just kept walking and walking and there were no washrooms till finally I was like, man, this is weird. I can't touch my phone. I can't scratch my ear. I can't do anything because my hands are just coated in this stickiness. But I did just buy a liter of water. So, finally, I cracked that open. I used it to wash my hands. And now there's the proper washroom here. So I should be able to get some soap on these bad boys. But yeah, not so bad.

And very pretty. So I did see some people walk ahead of me past this area. Let me go look at the Ole Arrow. Which way is it pointing?

Yeah, it's pointing this way. So I'm a little confused. I seem to be able to walk this way. It seems to be fine. But there's a whole ticket office and an entrance that just takes you literally 10 feet next to this trail. Just next to the exact shoreline. I don't understand. I don't understand what this is or what's going on. But maybe I can piece it together. I guess we'll see. After I go wash my hands.

There we go. Hands unsticky. How delightful.

And then yeah, walk past this whole area where you're supposed to buy tickets. And I don't understand. I don't understand. I mean, there's very beautiful cliffs here. But I mean, I'm looking at them right now. I don't know. It just seems like whatever you spend the money on, whenever I could peek over, it's like you get to walk closer to the cliff side. But it was literally only just like, I don't know. I was just like on the other side of a hedge from where you would pay money to go. I don't understand it. I think I got to do a little research in and see what this is supposed to be.

However, man, I just checked my little Google map. And yeah, I think any of my worries about not making it in time, I can relax. I couldn't believe how far on the coast I was, like how far I'd gone. Because I was like, I should just keep pushing it today. The sun's still up. But it's heading downish. It's 630 right now. I could keep pushing. But I realized I don't need to. At least two-thirds of the way to Goonsan, maybe more. I'm like, I'm basically almost there. I guess I should have known, you know, seeing it in the distance. It's like, yeah, you know, it's a pretty big mountain and that is far in the distance. But if you can see something, you can get there. Especially when you have, you know, days worth of time ahead of you. If I had to walk there today, yeah, that'd be a little much. But I got all week. I got ten more days or whatever.

This will be zero issue. I think if I was to be lying for it, I could make it next episode. No problem. So, yeah, so I can relax a little. And this cliff side really is nice. Fuck, that's pretty. Because yeah, I guess the main things are the final waterfall. The trio of pay waterfalls. There's the two that are right by my hotel. And the third one, you know, these waterfalls are always better when it's rainy.

I may have missed that, but hey, whatever. I've seen plenty of waterfalls. I'll, I mean, I'll go pay to see it just to finish the trilogy. But this is Cheyenne, Cheyenne waterfall. And if that sounds exactly like the name of all the other waterfalls, good, good job. Spelled slightly different. CH-E-O-N-J-E-Y-E-O-N waterfall. But that's coming up very soon.

In fact, it's pretty much going to get in my way if I keep trying to head down the coast. So I think now's the time. I'm just going to... I am just going to Mozi back up to the bus line up to the 202. Take the Longish Mozi up there because I got the time. It's all right. That's where I got to start next time. And then I got to figure out what this mystery mountain is that I was seeing between me and Gunsan. I really don't know what that is. Like looking on the map, there's Gunsan Oreum. What is this other mountain? What the hell was that?

I just don't know. But yeah, basically I can go pay to see that waterfall, head to Gunsan, be all done. But I'll try to squeeze in that mountain too. Whatever that is. See what that is. But yeah, jeez, I didn't think I'd be done this fast. I mean, I'm not... I'm not sad about it. It's way better to get this done a little earlier and be on the safe side. Oh, here's some cactuses. I haven't seen cactuses in a long-ass time since the...

...the zone that was specially known for cactuses. Cool. But yeah, no worries, man. It looks like no worries at all. And then, you know, if I got extra time on Jeju, there's always plenty of side missions. But I suspect this time is all gonna get eaten up. Really quickly. My time is coming to an end. But yeah, this is nice. Nice to know that I can relax. There's no way I'm gonna fail. I am so...

...close now. So yeah, this could be a good time to bail out. Just start making my way up toward the street. Because yeah, I'm sure... Well, I guess I don't know. I don't know what the hours would be for this waterfall. Because the really cool waterfall that empties into the ocean, that one closes relatively early in the day. The other waterfall, it's open till like 10 at night. The one that you can see... ...maybe above from the park. And who knows, maybe I'll get lucky. Maybe if I take tomorrow off, maybe it'll rain. And then I can see the waterfall at a more powerful rate. Maybe I should do that anyway. Maybe I should just try to hold off until it rains. But who knows. The weather's so random. Who the heck cares. I'm sure seeing it at less than full power will be fine.

Man, look at that ocean. Holy balls. Just goes out into infinity. I'm looking ahead of me. It's like, where's all Goonson? Can I see it from here? But now that the sun's going down, it's kinda right in my face. It's very hard to tell what's coming up ahead of me.

Okay, there we go. So there's Senbang Sen. And then yeah, what I believe is Goonson, although that could be Wallabong. And then this mystery mountain, which actually, more and more I'm starting to think maybe that is Wallabong. And maybe the mystery mountain is Goonson. Because I just don't know. I don't know what else it would be. It's very hard to tell. But anyway, I can actually do some research. Sit down like an old-school cartographer. Like Wally from fucking Monkey Island too. Was that his name? It's been a while. But he's got his maps and his protractors and compasses. Charting courses and figuring out what's going on. Anyway, for now, I guess I'm just going to keep following this Ole trail through this park. Yeah, eventually I'm going to hit that waterfall. And be forced to get out of here.

But that seems like a great place to start next time. So I'll write assuming nothing else happens to me today. We can call that a close. Thank you for joining me once again. The circumnavigation is almost complete.

And yeah, this has been really freaking cool. Definitely a unusual thing, you know. So much more guided than my usual how I explore other cities and other places where I just kind of go to different neighborhoods and wander around and see what happens. This is so neat because it's so prescribed. But it's so cool to have this like big multi-day journey, multi-week journey. I mean, probably over a month. I don't have to figure out when I started and then figure out how many days it actually took me to finish this.

And for it to all be like a connected singular experience, but also just so many different things happened. It's one of those things that like I would 100% say like this is a really cool thing to do. I would totally recommend it to anybody. But who the fuck has the time for this kind of shit? Who has time to just hold up on Jeju Island for several months, you know, for like six weeks or whatever and just keep walking and walking and walking with days off in between. However, I think it really is just time that's the main problem. Like how many people have this kind of time because like the flight to Jeju from South Korea was a pittance. It was under $50. It was ridiculous. And this hotel is 20 bucks a day. Very fucking affordable.

This is like an accessible adventure in that sense. It's just the time thing. Who's got the time? Who's job is going to say, yeah, go ahead, go fuck off for a whole fucking season.

And just very fortunate that I can just go dick around like this. So I hope I'm making the most of it.


Yeah.

Back in Segupo. It's a bit late. It's a bit after nine o'clock. But I got off the bus near the top of the waterfall here and just walked along through the park. And there's two ways down from here. There's steps that go directly down to the happy to see you convenience store. That's where I went last time in the little... Maybe that's why I thought I knew the word aureum because suddenly the word aureum just came to mind. The little place where they were playing Clare de Lune or whatever the fuck it was. Isn't that way you call that?

Anyway, the other way is a longer windier, just little mountain road and I'm walking down that one instead today. It's like cool. It like loops, snakes back and forth two or three times. Like a video game level. And it has a sidewalk as well as the LCD lights in the ground. A lot more comfortable than that mountain road I walked on the other day. This one's down right nice. I like this little walk. So pretty. But yeah, from where I ended off that last segment, even though I was right by waterfall number three, I kept following the Ola trail and it was actually pretty cool.

It took me down into the valley at the bottom. I never saw or even heard that waterfall. I don't know. I guess I wasn't that close to it. But it took me down into the valley that comes after the waterfall and I walked along that for a while. There were some crabs down there, pretty large crabs. I mean, not large. They're very small, but they're a lot larger than the ones I usually see on shorelines and stuff. And I crossed a little bridge down there. And then as I was walking along the other side, there were a lot of homeless cats in that neighborhood. There's a lot of resorts and stuff. It's very resort-y, but way more homeless cats than I have seen in a while. But there were like three cats just lasing on the Ola trail. And I didn't really have any other way I could go. But when they saw me, they weren't moving. I was like, hmm. So this can only go three ways. Either I'll approach them and they'll all run away. Not the worst thing that could happen, but you know, I don't really want to fuck with them. I don't want to interrupt them. They got here before me. They could attack me. That'd be the worst case scenario. It hit me or whatever. Or they could just ignore me. So I walked very slow. I kept my face averted from them. I didn't even look at them. And I even kind of kept my body turned. Like three quarters away from them. And I just walked really slow. Because this was a very narrow trail. I mean, I was walking really close to them. But they didn't make a peep. They didn't even move. They're just like, whatever. That's cool. This guy's not making any threatening movements. I guess it's fine. And obviously being by tourist fill, they're just really used to people. But yeah, best possible outcome there. I managed to get past the cats without fucking up their day.

But yeah, I just kept going along by the water. And it's like, I got a bail out. This path just keeps leading me farther and farther. And I'm already done for the day. I've already passed that waterfall technically. So then I went up to the bus route. And I can figure out the waterfall for next time. But the more I think about it, that mystery mountain that I was like, what is that mountain? I think it is Gunsan. I mean, it would make sense. Because that view was like arguably the best view I've ever seen in my entire life.

A totally unobstructed 360 view of just a huge amount of the island. It would make sense that that thing from a distance is a giant imposing mountain. You know, again, it was like 330 meters, but like a for real 330 meters. Everything else around it is near sea level. That stands out pretty prominently. And there's just not room for another mountain. Now that I'm realizing how close I am to Gunsan and how little time I've really got before I loop up this whole thing, I think that just must be it. I guess that's where I was. I mean, yeah, the more I think about it, I mean, I was describing everything as Mr. Rogers neighborhood, you know, like that level of how things look when you're in an airplane, when you look down and the cars look like toys. Everything looked like a toy. I was not not high up. It's just so hard to tie those things together in my mind. Because yeah, the view from the top was amazing, but the view from below and far away looks like, whoa, I was up there really. But I think it was. Anyway, I guess we'll figure it out sooner than later. You know, the day of reckoning is coming.

But the reason I pulled this recorder back out is not for any of these things. It's because I was just talking about mirrors in Seoul. And this park near my hotel where you can see the waterfall from above has a nice public washroom. So it's like, yeah, let me just stop in there.

It has just trying to finish off my leader bottle of water. So I can recycle the bottle. And I was in the stall. And I looked up and what was greeting me on the back of the stall door, but a tiny mirror. And I was like, all right, definitely Seoul has more mirrors. There's no question about that. It was so many all over the place it was. It was of note, but maybe my sense that there aren't mirrors. Other places in South Korea, I think I'm probably off on that. I think there's probably still quite a few mirrors kicking around all over the place. It's just that in Seoul, it was like, man, there's a lot of teeny little mirrors all over. Everywhere, every exercise equipment area, just not just every area, probably on every piece of exercise equipment. So yeah, maybe it's not that severe elsewhere. But the proofs in the pudding, man, as soon as I make some kind of bold claim, then I just didn't like, oh, wait, there's a mirror. I'm looking at my own face right now. I'm looking at the lies, looking at the lies.

So I just thought I'd bring that up. Why not? And this is such a pretty part of town, too, where I'm at the bottom now. Just got a loop around over the around the harbor and then head back up on the other side to my hotel. But because there's so many hotels around here, they're all neon and lit up.

So it's this combination of just really perfunctory seaside boat docking stuff, but also lit up neon hotel stuff.

And the walking bridge over to one of the islands, which is also all lit up. It's very pretty. Speaking of the orphium, I'm right behind it.

Let's see. Let's walk over there. See if they're playing any music tonight. Nope. Dead quiet today. Nothing going on.

But that's okay. She know what I'm going to do. After I bought those millions of popsicles, you know, it was only like 45 cents of change. But I got it all in little 101 coins. And the classic 51. I've only gotten like three of those this whole time, but I never know what to do with those because it's like a nickel. None of the machines I don't think take them. I think it's just too small. Or even if it did take them, I would need two of them to add up to anything. But there's a bunch of these machines down here that you can get a coffee for 50 cents. I don't necessarily want a coffee. You don't want to keep myself up. But see if I can find one that has like ginger tea, you know, one of the alternate nice little tea drinks, which may or may not have caffeine, but whatever I'll roll the dice. All right. This one has no English labels, but that's fine. Just see what we get.

So, 401. One of the teas is sold out, so let's go with the other one. Oh, war. Maybe that's the one that's sold out. Yeah, the red circle does not mean sold out. It actually means available. Fair enough. One of them is available. If I had to guess, I think this might be the Job's Tears. It's a ginger tea that I only really got once in Jeju, but it was pretty good. And then Job's Tears. Yeah, this is the one. The one that smells like popcorn. I looked this up the other day. Unfortunately, I don't have the exact information, but it's like a wheat thing, I think. It's like, you know, kernels, like they husk it, and they make it into this tea. And yeah, just this kind of barley wheat type of, and I don't really know what it is. It's again, just some plant. Some plant I'd never heard of in my life, but when they make it into a tea, the roasting process really smells like popcorn.

So, yeah, last time I was here, I drank my one and only booze in this whole trip. Instead, now I'm back, back to my non-booz life. Oh, and then the little dixie cup, it says, e-life, enjoy your life. No problem, 40 cent fucking cup of Job's Tears.

I would expect nothing less from your sage advice. The only reason I even know that it's pronounced Job instead of Job. This biblical name is from the smashing pumpkins, bullet with butterfly wings.

Like old Job. Despite all my rage, I'm still just around cash.

And the other day I wanted the buses get old bus Wi-Fi. I like when songs just come to mind, and I can just like, oh, I can just listen to that. I can just pull it up on YouTube with the bus Wi-Fi, and the other day I listen to Soma. Classic smashing pumpkin song Soma. If you've never heard Soma, I highly recommend it. S-O-M-A. It's like a beautiful lullaby that then turns into a loud angry lullaby. As was the style at the time in the early 90s.

Job's Tears. Drink them up. Okay, thank you for listening. I'll see you next time.