#159 Last day circling Jeju Island, Korea

Transcript

I got a little lucky today, so it's only one day after last episode. I was going to take a day off just because I'm right at the end of the Circumnavigation Plan, and I also realized that since I started on May 16th, today's July 15th, if I wait one extra day, I can finish up exactly two months after I started walking all the way around Jeju Island. But the weather is supposed to be overcast and rainy all week, and it would be cool if when I get to the end at the top of Gunsan Oreum, if I had a cool view. But who knows, whatever happens happens. So I wasn't planning on heading out today at all. I stayed up late last night. I didn't charge my phone. I'm just like, yeah, whatever. It'll be fine. But then when I woke up today, it was really clear outside, and I was like, oh, oh, you know, it's one day early, but I mean, look how clear it is. I should go. And I got all set, and I got all ready, and I was about to go outside, and I'm like, I just can't do it. I was up all night last night. I'm so exhausted. Let's like fuck it. Let's not do this. And man, was that the right call? Because now, like three hours later, it's all clouded over, and it's raining like fuck. I would be out there right now. I would be out there getting fostigated. So, I mean, I still might get fostigated tomorrow, but I just thought I'd pop in to say, man, talk about lucky that I avoided this fate. I almost flung myself into the abyss, but rainy season, man, they don't call it that for no reason.

The weather in the middle of summer, probably in all of Asia, but on Jeju Island for sure, extremely unpredictable. I'm very fucked in erratic.

All right. It's the final day. Two months exactly after I started, after I first was walking along the shoreline of Jeju Island, and I started thinking, like, could you just keep going? Could you just walk around the whole thing? Today's the day. I'm going to finish this fucking bitch. Last night, it rained crazy hard, super duper hard, but then today, I woke up a little early today. It's one reason why I'm doing a little in the hotel update, because I feel like I got time today. I got time to just dick around. Jeez, I never realized there's such a creaky floor in here. I should not walk around while I'm talking. I'll just stand by the window.

Yeah, I woke up a little early, but it's like, yeah, man, let's get up. Let's take my time instead of just getting up and running straight to the bus and trying to squeeze in as much day time as possible, because that is still a little surprising to me how you do by yourself like three extra hours in the summertime than in the winter, but that's not as much extra sunlight as I expected. The time zones are definitely weird around here. In Canada, it stays sunny till like 10, 30 at night in the summer. Here, by eight o'clock, it's getting dicey. But I was like, that's fine. Get up. I'll explain when I get off the bus, when I get to the other side. What's left on this journey and die? It is good to be a little on the safe side. Give myself a little extra time. Sure can't hurt. And I threw open the curtains, and it was downright sunny. It was like, holy shit. Nice. The perfect day. But then in the distance, I could see that it was a bit overcast. Usually, I like overcast because I like to not have the direct sunlight beaten down on me, but since today is going to end at the top of Gunsan, Orion, and I'll hopefully have a cool view. I was like, yeah, I'll take it today. I'll take the clear skies. But it's clouding over again now. So who knows, it's totally random. It could be sunny. It could be middle like it is right now. It could start raining. I don't know what's going to happen.

But everything's looking pretty good except that I haven't seen a mosquito in my hotel room in a while, and I saw one ambled by. I was like, where did you come from? And then it's just gone. Just looking around right now, and it's like, I know you're here somewhere. I know you're here somewhere. I'm like rattling things, moving stuff, trying to make it fly out again, but it landed somewhere and it's invisible now. Now I cannot see it. And it's so weird just to know that it's here 5:00 somewhere. It's waiting for me when I get back. And there's no way for it to escape. It's in here, you know? The reckoning is coming. It's going to be me and you, mosquito, Mr. Mosquito, wherever the fuck you are. I did notice actually just last time I was walking around, last episode. No mosquitoes outside, as usual. It just never seems to be a problem outside, but then I stopped in a washroom and in the washroom there were three or four mosquitoes. And it made me wonder if I wonder if part of why mosquitoes don't seem to be a big issue around here is like, I only ever see them inside inside a restroom or inside my hotel room when they get in here somehow. Is it just too hot outside? Is like the insane sun and crazy humidity maybe? I would assume it's probably more the actual sunlight, like the actual just pure heat. Is it just too much for a mosquito to survive? Maybe. I mean, I literally, I was going to say only see them inside. I guess that's not true. I have seen some mosquitoes outside, but literally 96, 97% of the time they're inside. Like maybe they just can't live out there. Maybe it's too brutal. I don't know. It seems unlikely. It's a fucking mosquito. They're the scourge of the earth. Well, I guess that's not true. There's many things worse than mosquitoes, but they're fucking annoying. Let's just give them that.

Where'd you go, pal? How are you here somewhere? Anyway, I'll worry about you later.

But basically, a pond first survey looks pretty good out there. Looks about as good as a person could hope. It is getting more and more overcast, but it'll be sometime before I actually get to the end of this journey and get up onto the top of the orium, so anything could happen. I'm going to bring an umbrella, though. I'm not fucking around. I'm bringing the umbrella just in case. But all right, let's fucking, let's get fucking cracking on this final day.

All right, on the bus at the transfer point, it's a Guapo bus terminal. It's just me and an order lady on the bus right now so I can yammer on the bus. So far, I don't fancy my chances to have a good view at the top of Goonsan, orium. There's always a if I go a block away from my hotel. There's the shoreline and there's one of the protected islands, you know, one of the islands that's got like rare, flora, and you're not allowed to go to. It's such a good indicator of what the weather's like. So today, I can easily see it. It's not crazy foggy where you can't even see this island out in the ocean. But the very top of it was covered in foggy stuff and I believe it's smaller. It seems quite a bit smaller than Goonsan, but I don't know that for sure, actually. I don't know how high it is. It's hard to tell. But then on the way here, just glancing out the window, definitely seeing a lot of foggy mountain peaks. But again, who knows, anything could happen on my way. Anything could change. But even if it is foggy up there, I don't think it'll be like mega foggy. Like the first day I went up where it was just mega foggy and then it all cleared, like a miracle. I'll probably be able to see something, but I, whatever, again, we'll see. Doesn't really matter. But man, one thing I've noticed in in South Korea is the way they do wet room style washrooms where, you know, you can just make the whole place wet. You could just spray it down with water all over the place. Like the other day in my hotel room, I just sprayed, I took the shower head and just sprayed it all over my toilet. Just like, okay, it's such an easy way to spray down your toilet and just clean up the place. You don't have to get down on your knees and scrub. You just spray the whole stupid room. So most public washrooms are like this too. And this bus terminal is smaller than the Jeju one. And less gross, but still gross. And I noticed that today I went in, stopped in the washroom, take a quick mid-journey pee. And it's all sprayed down. It was all wet. Somebody just pulled out a hose, a hose the place down. A bunch of people getting on the bus, but it wasn't remotely enough. Not even close. Man, it still smelled like 10:00 pee. Anyway, there's the mid-journey update.

Man, what in the sweet fuck that was very fucking weird. So it was just me and an old lady on that bus. She was at the front. I was at the back. Critical mistake. Because yeah, a bunch of students showed up so many that they filled every seat. Some of them were sitting on each other's laps. Then they filled the entire aisle way. I counted at one point. It was 18 people in the the aisle in the middle of the bus. So basically, it just kind of took the bus hostage. But I mean, really just me because I was the only one at the back. You know, at least the old lady at the front. I don't know where she got off, but she could get off with minimal getting past other people. And then as we were going, other people would stop in at different bus stops and cram their way into the front of the bus, but then they could get off wherever they had to get off because they weren't here at the front. It wasn't so bad. I don't know. I was considering trying to push past when we got to where I was supposed to get off, but it's just like I got my big umbrella. I got my my weather resistant coat. I don't know. I kind of got enough stuff that just cramming past because also it's not just like a line of kids. You know, like these kids, they're all like junior high kids. They're all boisterous and loud and they don't mind to be in all crammed in right on top of each other. So like the aisle way was legitimately blocked. You know, it wasn't just one line of people. It was like a whole, it just would have been so impossible to get past them. So I'm like, I guess I'm just fuck it. You know, just recalibrate. Just take a little nap and enjoy the air conditioning. Like just like I don't know when these people are getting off, but, but they're a single unit. You know, like until they get off, I kind of just can't really. It would be way too hard to get off that bus. And luckily, it's only a little farther. I met, uh, I'm actually where I was when I first went to Goonson. I'm on the other side bus stop. This is the exact stop I started from where I went toward Woolabong. And there's this really awesome walking trail. And then I looped around up to Goonson. So, uh, not so bad, but I was getting a little annoyed because I'm just like, how long could they possibly stay on this bus? Like it can only go to Jeju City. That's the farthest. And there's just no way that whole stretch. Once you get around the corner and you start heading north, there was never anybody on the bus. That was just a dead zone till you get back near Jeju City. And then it got busy again. So there's just no way. And in fact, when they all got off here, this reminds me of the other time I was here because there's a happy to see you convenience store right here that was packed full of kids. So it's obviously the same thing. I just, these kids all dump off here for whatever reason. And then head straight to the convenience store. So not so bad. I'm only a little off track. So now I'm just waiting for the bus going the other way. And I'm just going to go back. But I guess now that I know that if I see the scourge coming, if I see a non-stop enormous group of kids, I guess I just got to like rush to a front seat. It wouldn't be so bad if you're near the front. But yes, since I was at the back, totally, total hostage situation. And you know, I shouldn't be annoyed by the exuberance of youth. I guess I should be glad that they're having a happy fun time. But normal, you know, bus riders, especially in Asia, very quiet people. Not kids. Kids are loud as fuck yelling. Oh, Jesus, it's just like, will you kid shot the F of? Oh, man, the little, you know, the seafood restaurants have tanks out front for extra fresh fish that you can have in the restaurants. This one has squid in it. Just a bunch of squid bopping around. Anyway, I suppose I should turn off this recorder and be prepped for the bus and should be here soon. But anyway, I just thought that was kind of funny. Like, man, that was like, that was an absurd number of kids. Oh, and of course, like, they packed in as many as they could pack into the bus. And there were just a shit ton of kids still waiting outside, waving as the first bus left. Ridiculous. There is though, there's sandbangs in the, in the distance, in the, on the horizon. It's not that far from here. And it, I can't see the top. The top is all clouded over. So again, yeah, not, not loving my chances of a great view.

But you never know. You never know. I still got time. Let's end with some fish tank, squid tank ASMR.

All right, even with the overall slowness of travel and with my doubling back shenanigans, getting trapped on the bus, going forward then going back, it's still only quarter after noon where I got to the beginning of today's final journey. So I'm starting at Yerae Entrance, Y-E-R-A-E Entrance bus station. I walked here last time and basically this is the last point before Gunsan Oreum where the Olle Trail is near a bus stop. And then after I come down off Gunsan, the Olle Trail will be near a bus stop too or near the 202 bus stop. There's all these little teeny local buses, but like the other day when I was walking for a long-ass time, along one of those local bus routes, I didn't see a single one. They're so weird and random and they'd kind of go nowhere if you follow their bus routes. There's a lot of really tiny weird little buses on Jeju. So a full-on bus that'll take me back home. There's one here, there's one at the end of the journey, but now this particular section, this is where I got to walk way down to the coast and then along the coastline. And then at some point I'll connect up to what I did last time where there's this cool ancient horse trail from the 1600s that's just made of stone that goes up the mountain under a canopy of trees and it was really fucking cool to go down it. This time I'm going to go up it and then loop around to Gunsan and that'll be that. So this should be super doable today. It should be no big problem. It'll probably take less time than I think. But I'm glad to have a nice solid stretch ahead of me because like last time I was here doing this in reverse, that was the problem as I was just pushing up against the end of the day and it got pitch black before I made it to the bus. But at least I was in civilization. If that happened this time, I had to get pitch black while I was on the mountain. So yeah, this is a little tricky just because this stretch is not something you can easily bail out of, but I should be able to bail out. Hmm, I passed a GS25 store across the street and I was like, I'll just walk to the next one since I'm doing my little podcasting stuff. But I'm looking ahead of me. There is nothing. There is nothing there. I know there's some more convenience stores eventually. And now I'm going to double back. I've got to hit up that place because I haven't even eaten today. It's probably why I was, I did wake up a little early but probably partially why I was a little annoyed, extra annoyed at all these junior high kids. I just need to get some food in my belly. Man, I'm near the end of a laundry cycle. I've got to go do laundry soon. But you know, at least each day I swap out shirts. I only have two pairs of pants but it's surprising how I think just the way my body is designed. I don't know, I sweat through my upper body. My legs just don't sweat that much because you'd think my jeans would just be disgusting sweat piles. But last time I did laundry I mixed up my pants a little and I couldn't tell like which one were the dirty ones. This time I can tell because I got like mud stains on my, my pant legs at the bottom. But yeah, I was like smelling both my pants and I'm like, this is crazy. How can I not tell which one is the one that needs to be washed?

I eventually figured it out but my weather resistant jacket that I always bring with me and I hardly ever need it but I always bring it because when you do need it it's like getting trapped in the middle of the night or horrible weather, rain and stuff. It would be terrible not to have it if I needed it.

And I just keep it around my shoulders, keeps the back of my neck from getting sunburned but just that little bit of sweat coming from my shoulders, seeping through my t-shirt of the day. And then whatever little sweat on the back of my neck I guess that's built up over the past week or whatever.

Enough so that I can't tell right now because I'm outside and it's all you know open air and stuff. 20:00 But sitting in the bus I was like, this is annoying I can smell my stupid fucking jacket even though I haven't been wearing it. It's just been slung over my shoulders for so many days that it has slowly accrued enough sweat that I can smell it. Apologies to whatever junior high kid was sitting next to me.

Yeah that's me, I'm the gross foreigner, I do not have the magical gene that makes my sweat not smell. Sorry Apologies, I guess we both were annoying to each other today. Bridging the generation gap in ways to be an unpleasant part of society.

Alright, gotta stop in this convenience store, get some dang food.

So this is nice, I'm just walking down a little babbling brook. There was like a public bathhouse at the top of this brook, I don't see those a ton but I do see them sometimes. Nobody was in this one. In fact I've only ever seen people using those one time because I peeked my head in to see what is this building and inside where a couple of nude Korean guys. But I just was like whoop, I don't even know if they saw me poke my head in. I was like okay, leave you to a gentleman. But that's kind of cool because that's a thing that pops up here and again. Only on Jeju have I seen those. I guess the closest thing in Busan and Seoul are the natural springs on the mountains.

I guess I have seen people not fully bathing but just rinsing off with that spring water.

Also garbage cans, very nice because I just, you know, I bought a little apple and whipped cream bun thing at the convenience store which was pretty good. And one of those, I still, I should have learned the name because I mean it's become apparent that it's a super common thing. But the fat macky roll that they have here. That's usually got a lot of veggies in it and then sometimes a bit of random fish or meat as well. But it's like a cool design where it's a really good package where it's like a push pop. You push from the bottom and a slice of the macky roll pushes up and you eat it. It's not my favorite thing ever but it's certainly fine when you need some food. So I grabbed one of those. Did my classic get a cup of coffee and a couple of popsicles this time I got watermelon popsicles which may niggle all out on those. Where they really look like a watermelon. They're green at the bottom and pink at the top for most of it, you know, 90% like the inside of a watermelon. But also it has like watermelon seeds that I think are just little bits of cookie. It's like wow, pretty sweet. But anyway, I could just easily dispose of all this garbage because there's garbage cans and then as I was walking, there's even more garbage cans. I was like man, I wouldn't say garbage cans are common in South Korea but compared to Japan. Yeah, super common.

But this is neat too because I almost missed this. I was walking along and I realized like hmm, there's kind of a long stretch ahead of me that just kind of looks like a highway and then a bridge coming up. And I could see a fair distance ahead of me and I could see no ole trail markers at all. And I thought like alright, this is it. This is my last day. This is my last chance. This is my last chance to do the ole trail properly. And it was tricky. I had to backtrack. Again, not even sure if I needed to backtrack. I wasn't sure if I was off the trail, you know, like it's so difficult because you have to be mindful of where the trail markers are. But also mindful of the absence of trail markers. You got to realize in absence before it's too late, you know, before you're really far in the wrong direction.

Then going back I saw a little footpath to the side and way down the path was a trail marker. But then as I went down that path I saw it did connect up earlier as well. Theoretically there must have been an arrow that I missed. But you never know, I mean maybe it's not just me. Maybe some of these arrows are missing or were never there. I'm going to presume it was my fault that I missed the turn off arrow but I just don't know. You know, it's so tricky. So deceptively tricky to stay on this route.

But in this case I didn't have to backtrack too far before I did see the route to the side and like it's really good. It's like this really long walk down this, down this brook. Oh, there's the bridge. In fact, I'm walking alongside the bridge down through a valley right now instead of walking across it. So it would have been fine. You know, if I stayed up there on that road it would get me to the same place. But I would miss this whole little area, this awesome little nature, nature hike place where nobody's here. But I think probably because it's so hot. I saw one guy up at the top near the bathhouse just chilling. Oh, and there's somebody ahead of me. But not very many people. And yeah, just walking down this little brook, this little stream, super nice.

So yeah, I feel like if I ever did this walk again and I did decide to try to actually do everything proper. Try to get to all the stamp areas, you know, I just passed a stamp. I still wouldn't bother getting the stamps in the little, the little medallion or whatever. But just to say I saw them all, just to prove to myself that I did it right. If I ever do try that in the future, I mean it's going to be very hard. You know, if my half and half method where I mainly just stuck to the coast still took two months, the proper method would take a lot longer. I guess though, I mean I did also take days off in between. I guess maybe if you just tried to go every day. Just push it every day. But then I feel like it would still take two months. I don't know, I wonder. I wonder how long this crazy shit takes people.

Oh wow, and I'm still walking down this valley. Hmm, I wonder which side I should be on. Maybe it doesn't matter. I'm across over though.

Oh, I was just about to say the one thing this place doesn't have. It's got a public bath and it's got all these garbage cans. What it doesn't have is a washroom.

But actually, in the distance, is that a washroom?

It would be strange if there isn't one because this is very well developed. You know, there's exercise equipment. There's different little statues. It's all kinds of shit down here.

Oh yeah, there you go. It's the telltale. Even though I still don't see a men or women sign, I see the red emergency light. And there we go, then I can see men and women. They had to cut the emergency lights. It's got the emergency button. Awesome, a washroom.

All right, I made it down to the shore. Nice and windy down here. That feels good. That feels good. It feels way better.

And yeah, this is a bit of an odd day because it is overcast. Like I was saying, a lot of the mountain tops seem to be covered. I can't see Goonsan from here though, so it's hard to say. Yeah, there is some mountain behind me though. Maybe that is Goonsan, actually. I don't know, it's hard to tell. But it is a little clattered over at the top. But I can see way down the shoreline. There's this one really distinctive island because it's very angular. Almost square looking that I see from my neighborhood all the time in Seguapo. And now I can see it from the other side, much farther away. But I can see all the way down there.

So it really is a good combo day. Not fully sunny, but not fully misty.

Really no complaints. And man, that walk was beautiful. So I took a picture of the sign of the names. I could say what this is called.

I guess it fits in with the bus station name. Yere. Y-E-R-A-E because it's the Day Wang Su Chan Yere Eco Park. D-A-E-W-A-N-G-S-U-C-H-E-O-N. Y-E-R-E-E Eco Park. And I've seen those signs around for Eco Parks before. I don't know that I've ever been to one. But it's really gorgeous. It's basically, I mean, this time of year, it's quite overgrown. And there's a lot of spider webs and stuff. I don't think a ton of people walk down this thing. But it's just beautiful.

It's like mostly just paths along either side of that river that apparently comes from a spring. I guess that's why there was the bathing house at the top because that's all spring water.

In fact, I'm going to go down to the shore here. Just wet my hand a little bit because unfortunately the washroom did not have a sink with running water, very unusual.

But yeah, so it just keeps my hand always feels radioactive when I can't wash my hand.

But this is the water exiting from the spring water, so I mean, I'm not going to drink it, but it's fine to wash your hand with.

Right into the ocean.

What the fuck is this? There's a bunch of water spraying up the road ahead of me. Kind of like when people use sprinklers to water their lawn, but way bigger, like a whole block source of them all spraying at once. The hell is that? Maybe it's like a water park or something? But it reminded me a bit of, in Atlantic Canada, there's a lot of marshland and if you're in a marsh area, sometimes they build walkways. Just so you're not directly trotting upon, you know, the nature. And that's what it's like there, too. There's the stone walkways near the brook, but then there's all these parts where you can go out into, you know, just into the tall grass and just walk out and kind of, I don't know, just soak it in. It's really fucking beautiful. And still just the overall lack of insects. You know, there's like little bumblebees and stuff here and again, but I don't know what that means. No, I just find it so strange. I mean, Atlantic Canada is just a bug nightmare. The bugs own that place, you know, they're the true kings. And it's just not like that here. I remember one summer I bought this like mesh top that was supposed to protect against mosquitoes, but it kind of looked like, you know, something you'd wear to a rave or something Jeff Hardy would have worn back in the day and wrestling. Just like a mesh shirt. But it was not remotely enough. To stop mosquitoes. Eventually, I bought two of them because obviously the mesh netting that had no hope ever of stopping a mosquito. But if I was wearing two layers of them, it would at least keep, you know, sometimes a mosquito would land on it and it just wouldn't be directly against my skin, you know, except by up by my shoulders. I mean, it helped a little bit, kind of sorta. But really in Canada, your only option in the summer is just to stay inside. One of the many reasons why I came to like the wintertime way better. And it still just blows my mind that it's not like that because that specific eco park, like that just feels like a bug kingdom. You know, it's like quite heavily overgrown, very natural, very rugged. Not that many people there. That just seems like the kind of place that bugs should just be going fucking hog wild. And they're just not. I don't know why it's crazy. Okay, here's where the water was spraying. I still don't know where that was coming from or what that was all about, but it's like a little, like a little pool, but a natural pool, a sea water pool.

Or again, I guess there's a, there's water emptying into it running through a pipe coming from the hill. So it's probably again, just like spring water or something emptying into this pool. And then there's a little shelf where it goes and enters with the ocean. So it's like semi spring water, semi ocean. Pretty cool.

But yeah, basically I was walking down the eco park and I was like, man, this is really gorgeous and way longer than I expected. Because like I was saying this particular stretch, there's no good way to bail out. Because this was one of my worst bailouts ever. When it was getting dark and I just had to cut straight up. Just along a normal road, not meant for pedestrians as it got dark. Pretty unpleasant and a long walk. But if you have time to follow the Ola trail properly, you still do that long walk down to the coast, but it's along this beautiful fucking babbling brook trail. This is just amazing thing. And then when I saw the coast, it's like, oh, there it is. Oh my god. Now I'm down by the coast. Like basically this walk is being unreasonably beautiful right up to the bitter end, man. Because I already know what's coming. I already know I got an ancient horse trail and an amazing mountain fucking ahead of me. This is all just, this is just gravy. This is just bonus. And it's fucking beautiful.

Alright, still walking down the coast. Fucking beautiful. I can see the big terrifying Woolabong cliffs ahead of me. These are just super duper insane cliffs. I think it's so neat how, oh, and there's a sandbang sand right behind it. I can see now. It's very much covered in cloud cover. It's just neat that I remember the names around here. 35:00 That really is like pretty rare. I'm always complaining about the how difficult it is to remember the names in South Korea because to me they all sound like very tiny variations on the same handful of sounds. But I know that that's sandbang sand. And that's Woolabong. And that's going sand that I can see. That is, it's only the very tip that is covered in cloud, just the top.

But that's all it'll take to fuck my view in its face. But I think things are clearing up in general. And yeah, behind sandbang sand, I'm not sure what Oreo I'm looking at. But if you follow the coastline, there's Horse Mountain. I mean, technically I don't know the name of that one. But I know what it is. I know that one. Horse Mountain.

I went back and rewatched Dan does Korea. This nice Canadian lad who used to live in Korea. And on his YouTube page, they flew him here to Jeju to promote the Ole Trail a bit. Now that I've done it, I rewatched his video. Like, so what parts was he at? And he was at basically the two parts that had Japanese war caves. There's the one in the North East and Horse Mountain, is where they took him. Both fine spots, both extremely beautiful parts of the Ole Trail. And I'm quite sure when I was here the other day, yeah, definitely walks past a convenience store before. I took a hard left and brute forced my way back up to civilization. So there's definitely at least one around here. And I gotta find it. I don't think it's optional. I had on a cafe a lot coffee tucked away in my pocket and I drank that. I had an extra coffee because it was by one get one free. I drank the coffee that I put my watermelon popsicles in. But I had another one. I drank that. And my bottle of water is almost gone. So I gotta stop in just to get liquids. I just need water. Because yeah, this is quite a weird day. I think partially I'm just getting used to the heat every day. And being a big, smelly, gross, sweaty fuck.

But I saw in the temperature. It said it was 30 degrees today, which I was like, I don't know about that. That'd be one of the worst days that I've been out here. And it's definitely hot, but I think just because it's not direct sunlight doesn't seem that bad. And like the breeze is hitting me right now and it feels okay.

When I lose the breeze, it definitely is way worse. I noticed just putting my arm on the armrest for a moment on the bus. It's like, oh, I just left a big sweat trail across this armrest, gross.

And here while I've been walking around, sweat started getting in my right eye. That's never happened to me in my life. Could just be coincidence. But I don't know. Maybe I'm just like, it's so much sweating that my eyebrows aren't doing the job anymore. They're not directing sweat down away from my eyes. It's like sneaky today. It doesn't seem that terrible. And my brain is telling me it's not that terrible, which has a big effect.

But it is terrible. It's really fucking hot out. So yeah, I need more liquids for fucking sure.

But yeah, man, this is great. I know after I got past Jeju City, there was definitely a stretch where walking the coast was not nearly as good. And I even distinctly remember saying something along the lines of like, yeah, you know, that first half, that was the, that was the shit. This is just like sweeping it up. This is just finishing things off for the sake of it. And now whatever. But I definitely rescind that statement. The northwest corner. Yeah, it is pretty lame. But then this southwest corner and then all along the bottom is beautiful.

It's in fact one of my very favorite parks just because there's so many recognizable oriums and mountains and coastline properties. And like, it's just so cool to see these things from all these different angles. And just to recognize them like you can't miss it. You can't miss which one is sand banks and you can't miss which one is the wall of bond cliffs. Like they are cliffs, dude. They are 90 fucking degree cliffs. They are crazy. They're the craziest cliffs I've seen anywhere on this island.

You know, they're maybe not as aesthetically nifty as the column nerd joints that I saw last episode. 40:00 But just as a pure fucking fuck you cliff, you could never climb this. If you fall off this, you're 100% dead wall of bond cliffs to the one. And then the goonsan orium is the best view in the fucking world.

And horse mountain. I wonder what this other. This other orium does appear to have a little structure on top. It's possible that that's the observatory.

The mountain with the observatory. I mean, it seems probable, but I just don't know. It's hard to say. And that section of the coastline where I saw dolphins, like yeah, big time worth it.

Once you get past that slightly rough patch, the circumnavigation not only completely redeems itself, this honestly might be the best part.

It was kind of neat too. I saw the other day one of the, it's just like a cartoon tourist map of the island with little cartoon drawings of all the cool stuff you could see. So I just followed along with the coastline and it's like, oh yeah, I remember this and I remember that. And just remembering the walk in general, like when I started. Because yeah, I guess especially the stuff east of Seguapo is actually pretty nondescript. Like that's where I didn't know of real beaches were ever coming. Because there's none on this other shore. It's all volcanic rock. But I was fine with that and a lot of it was just little fishing places and people fishing and fishing factories just, you know, very perfunctory stuff. But since this was a new endeavor, this was very exciting to me. But I guess if that was your final stretch, it actually might be a little lame too. And there weren't really any particular tourism things except, oh, there was that first beach. I guess not till the first beach popped up. The one where when I was stranded, I finally found a cab. But that's where I didn't even realize that the Ola trail was so different from just walking the coast at that point because there didn't seem to be even much along those lines.

So I guess to be fair.

You know, it's weird. I guess it's like you could kind of split the island in half on a diagonal.

Northwest and southeast. Not necessarily a tongue going on. Where northeast and southwest tons a beautiful shit.

Get closer and closer to the cliffs.

Yeah, I have a feeling since the Ola trail has taken me directly along the coast. I might have to go off course just to find that convenience store. The Ola trail may not take me past the convenience store. Yeah, I would be a fucking fool to now start going uphill in this kind of heat without a butt load of water. A butt load is actually not even nearly enough. I need 10 men's butt source of water. I have no idea how much fucking water someone can keep in their butt. Hey, here's the cool little thing.

It's like a grid, like a wire mesh sculpture of a diver. Cool. Yeah, man, we're getting close to the end now. There's gun son. There's gun son. I see you missed. Get ready. Get ready to sweep yourself away. I am approaching. Though if I look out into the distance, it seems like an awful lot of clouds in every direction. There's a little bit of blue in one spot way far away. So hey, you never know. It's possible. Hey, it's possible. Although it's, uh, it is just the tip that's obscured. So I think worst case scenario, I might get a view from lower down. That's not the full 360 panorama. But again, whatever. That's all optional. They did it all the other day. Oh, fuck me. I'll write store. Do I have a six cents for where convenience stores are? I wish. I wish I did. But if that latent, mutant power is gonna develop. It'd be nice for it to happen, right? Fucking now.

All right, let's make this one a two-parter, so right at the foot of the Gunsan Oreum, the coolest place ever, and just a tell you for next episode, man. So, last time I was on Gunsan, I got to the top. Again, I don't know if that's how you pronounce it. I think that's how you'd pronounce it in Japanese, you know, like Suzuki Gun, whatever. Anyway, yeah, when I got to the top, 45:00 Gunsan, it was like foggy, and then the only time it cleared up during the entire day was the point that I was up there. So, yeah, just for next episode, I'd still remember, man, that day was so fucking weird. I did, in fact, bring some weird corn on the cob cookies. And yeah, when I got up there, it was, it was misty like I was in another world. Just this swirling mist everywhere. And it seemed like it was confusing the insects, because insects kept flying into me, and it just felt crazy. But it did clear up, and I did get to see the view. It's fucking awesome. Anyway, next episode is the finale of circumnavigating Jeju. But it being the finale, it being the big final moment. Let's put that off for one more episode. So, join me next episode as I ascend to officially complete the circumnavigation. I'll see you then. I hope. Don't just stop listening right now. That'd be, that'd be weird to shit. And don't do that, so I'll see you next episode.