Roaming Holiday Transcripts

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#186 I saw a monkey in Taipei

Areas discussed: Taipei, Tsuifeng Falls, Hengling Historic Trail, Qianshan Park, Shamaoshan Trail

1 hour 6 minutes Taipei, Taiwan

All transcripts are machine generated.

Transcript

Alright, man, I love these symmetrical time warps or parallel. I don't know how you describe it, where it's the next day, but I'm pretty much in the exact same spot as I was at the end of the last episode when I was yammering about video games. Except I'm going the other way now, instead of walking down the mountain road, I'm walking up the mountain road. And I know I yammer about the weather way too much on this podcast, but it really is so confusing.

Where I noticed in Seoul in the winter, even on days when it was like the AQI was like 150, and it's like, man, you should really be wearing a mask. I noticed there were some people, some locals who just never wore masks ever. And I got to assume it's because they just, I assumed at the time, and I still think this, they probably just got tired of checking, or they just never cared. But just having to check every day and some days it's this, and some days it's that, and eventually you just give up. You either wear a mask every day, or you never wear a mask, and you're just like, whatever, fuck it. That's the sense I get around here too, is I bet people don't check the weather, because there's just no fucking point. Why bother? You know? Because the two different sites I checked didn't even have the same information. One of them said it was 35 degrees today, but feels like 42, which is just so insane. And it's very hot, and I'm sweating a lot, but it's not hot like that. It's just not. You know? It's like, it's not that painful, like the sun immediately feels dangerous. I don't know how hot it really is, but like, it's definitely not hot like that. Here's a little walkway down to the river. I didn't notice yesterday, a little platform and everything. Look at this. Yeah, the rust color, the like oxidized sulfur, whatever it is. It doesn't smell like sulfur, but the orange color continues pretty much the whole way down this river. See yesterday's episode for details of the cool waterfall at the top of this river. But yeah, the other website I checked said it was not that hot, but quite insistent that today was going to be a rainy day. Like, not just the, it starts to rain at 2.30 and it stops at 4.30, but all throughout the day. However, the sky is pretty fucking clear. It hasn't rained on me at all, and I don't think it's gonna. Unless, you know, it does build up to the late afternoon, sudden storm. That's still possible. But yeah, it's like these websites, they're both wrong, and they can't agree with each other. And it's like, who even cares? Why even bother? Oh shit, I'm there already. Holy shit. Yeah, I was afraid this might take a while. I was thinking like I could walk up the 1,300 historic steps and across the monkey trail and down to the waterfall again. It's the much prettier way to get here. But you got to go way up and then back down. And it's just like, that's an awful lot of walking in the heat. So instead, I just walked up to Mountain Road. It's a little narrow. It's not the easiest road in the world. And it's that general grind feeling of just walking uphill, but this didn't take nearly as long as I expected. So here, this was the goal. This was the thing I saw yesterday that's been stuck in my head all night. Hongtan, a little over a kilometer away, about 40 minutes. I met a small shrine, see if I can figure out the name. Yesterday, there was incense going. Today, no incense. I don't know if there's anyone around or not, but I don't see anyone.

I could have swore. I saw this shrine's name on Google Maps yesterday, but now I'm not seeing anything. I think maybe it's maybe part of my various confusions with Google Maps. I guess I don't totally still know how it works because I always use the offline map. So maybe I'm on the offline map now, whereas yesterday, perhaps I had been online at some point, and it gave me additional names and information that I now don't have. Possibly, I don't know. Anyway, I met a little shrine, and there's these stone steps heading up into the mountains further. And apparently, in 40 minutes, I can get somewhere. Oh, and I see here is some kind of a map that actually says it's it's a loop, perhaps? Oh, wow, it's a bunch of stuff. 20 minutes to this, 60 to this, 30 to this, 10, 20, 30, 30 to all these different places that I don't know what they are. Well, anyway, I guess I'll just start walking and we'll just see what happens. Contaminated hot spring water stream situated in the vicinity of the John Shen building, the rapid flowing song she stream is a tributary of the sulfur stream, and therefore contains various metallic elements as a spill over from these hot springs. These have died the significantly eroded streambed golden yellow. Prior to the opening of the baneling industrial road, scores of photographers were drawn to the area to capture the white foam of the colorful song she's rapids, along with a very photogenic historic stone bridge connecting its banks. Cool, so uh, geez, I spoke way too soon about the raining. It started raining on me as I was reading that. Where's that coming from? There's no, I don't see any clouds. What the heck? Anyway, I apologize, weather website. It is in fact raining on me. But that's cool, so it is sulfur that explains why that river is that cool color. Golden yellow is a good, good way to describe it.

Or rusty orange, but it's like bright. Anyway, I wonder if that is the sulfur springs that I was at a couple of weeks ago, where it was extremely sulfur-y smelling. I'm not sure of geographically how everything lines up, but maybe that's the sulfur they're talking about that runs down into this river. But yeah, not only did I see this cool little sign, but then I saw a very distinct temple-looking building in the distance. And I was like, I bet that's it. I bet that's what they're talking about, and that's what really spurred me on. Literally seeing it in the distance.

And I was just like, oh, dude, I got to try to go there. That seems so cool.

So here I am, the very next day.

Hongtan, about 35 minutes. These signs, yeah man, they're crazy. They're so good with the signs in Taipei. This is pretty much straight up though, up at this little stone staircase. So let me turn off the recorder, but I just wanted to yammer briefly about humidity. I always noticed when I moved from the east coast to the west coast where it's way more humid in Canada, that my fingernails and toenails grew more quickly. Enough so that I noticed, and I looked it up, and that's the first time I read about how humidity can make your hair and your fingernails grow faster. The thing that's happened here now with the extreme humidity is I kept getting like itchy ears. The inside of my ears were itchy, and I actually bought Q-tips. I'm not a Q-tip guy. I've never bought Q-tips in my life, but I bought some to try to clear out my earwax and make them stop itching. And I looked that up, and apparently that's another humidity thing. It really can. It makes earwax production can raise, and it can be a lot worse than just itchy ears. Some people get like impacted ear canals, and it's really painful and stuff. So that's, I don't know, just something I never heard about, never ran into in my life, never experienced, but I've been experiencing it here. It's so distinct. This has never happened to me in my life, and now that I'm in Taipei, it's like, geez, I got to pay extra attention to my ear canals. So anyway, there's our little thing that we learned for the day. I think the rain has already stopped, but now I do see a little bit, a little bit of slightly ominous cloudage in the distance.

What time is it anyway? Uh oh, yeah, it's quarter after two. Uh oh, wish me luck not getting rain done, and I guess we'll see. And also, I spoke way too soon about the rain stopping. It's just this weird kind of rain, where just standing under, just this one tree I'm under right now, is more than enough to stop it, but yeah, now that I'm looking out past the branches, it's like, okay, no, it is still, it's that weird kind of rain that it's like raining, but it's very hard to see it.

But I got my umbrella, I'll break that bad boy out.


Well, the rain stops, that's nice, although, yeah, I'm still seeing, it's so distinct. To my left, it's just super blue sky. To my right, it's like white-ish, white cloudy sky, and then right ahead of me is the darkness. Man, though, the city looks like hell today, it looks so bad from up here. I didn't check the AQI, but it must be pretty high today, because it looks like garbage down there, it looks awful. It's such a shame, because it's like a nice day in the short, the foreshortened distance directly around me, but yeah, now that I'm at like an observation point, I can look down and see Taipei, see the whole good chunk of the place, yeah, it's very fucking bad. I haven't seen that level of haze since soul in the winter, you know, or that day, that really bad day in Busan, or that little stretch of four days that was insane. Yeah, I wonder, I'm curious, because I mean, I guess who needs the number? You just gotta look and you're like, that sucks. Actually, I had a little chat with Cody from America and a new roommate guy who just moved in Maurice from Austria, and it turns out that is one reason why I never see anybody, or when I do they're on the phone, is that yeah, they are on working holidays, they're, Cody is a graphic designer, a freelance graphic designer, and Maurice actually moved here for the next six months for something to do with this company, he's learning Chinese and everything. But yeah, we should chat at about stuff, but that is one of the things I warned him about since he's going to be here for six months. I was like, yeah, you know, the one thing, we're having a very nice chat, you know, of like, yeah, it's fucking cool in Taiwan, everything's really neat and cool. So I didn't want to be Debbie Downer, but I did mention like, PS, you know, the air quality index seems a little bad around here, and my experience in Seoul in the winter was that it was like really bad. So watch out for that, be prepared, you know, once winter time hits here, I assume it's this bad in the summer, it's going to be bad. It's going to be bad. It's already bad. I mean, just looking at that, I'm like, I should probably be wearing a mask right now. I have one tucked away in my day bag, but I haven't, I haven't worn a mask in a while. There was a couple of days on Jeju where I wore one, and that's the last time, but in this heat and stuff, it's just like, I just don't think so. At least I don't feel it. I mean, it was so bad in Seoul that it hurt my fucking lungs. Here, I don't notice it that way, but I don't know if I lived here, I guess I would have to have a reckoning with myself. Like, how are we going to deal with this, the long-term effects of this? But since I'm just visiting, it's fine. I'll just fucking breathe in the bad air, and that's that. But also from this view, I can see that tower that I saw in the distance, and I don't know that that's where I'm going. I don't think so. It seems like there's a valley between me and it. I'm on a different mountain going a different way. Although I guess that that other sign I saw had like a loop, a big long loop, that would take many hours to do. So maybe it's part of the loop. That seems likely, because if I was to loop around as the diagram displayed, I would end up over there. So that's probably the case, but the actual place I'm going to now, I think, must be something else.

But this is kind of cool. It's like a little, it's another irrigation thing similar to the Tienmoo Historic Trail, how it was a trail next to a water pipeline that's been there for a long last time. This is similar. It even said, like this is a similar situation. This is a different irrigation system and water pipeline from way back in the day, bringing fresh water to the people of the area. And we have these cool little walkways near it. It's similar to the Tienmoo trail, but tends to be less crowded. And that's true, because there's no one here. I haven't seen any people.

I hear some men are of animal. That's all. But that's pretty nice.

Man, though, it is that level of heat now. The heat's building up where it's hard to even use this recorder because I'm in that like sweaty palm thing where it's hard to take the recorder out. It's hard to put it away because I don't want to get it all wet and sweaty. But like I, when I rub my palms on my, even on like a dry part of my pants, it doesn't work. I have to like scrape my palms back and forth across dry cloth. And it's still my, my palms are still a little clammy. It's fucking weird. It's like, what is the deal? But that's the level of sweaty humidity we're at now. I'm certain I think both those weather websites were right. The one that said it was going to rain. I mean, it did rain. And the one that said it was hottest fuck. Yeah, I don't know. Maybe you just hadn't built up on me yet, but it is in fact hottest fuck. So it's all weather at once. It's all things at all times.


Well, this is pretty cool, so I got to a sign that said it was only a kilometer to an observation deck to see a waterfall, and I had a feeling it was pulling me away from the original path I was following, but I mean a kilometer to a waterfall, you know, of course. And as I followed along, it's this really cool walkway next to the way that the Tianmu steps are next to a pipe. This one had some pipes, but this particular part is like a stream, just literal water that goes along the side of the mountain in this walkway next to the stream. And I even saw some people, I passed three people as I went along this, but it's really beautiful, just this walkway along the side of the mountain, big lush foresty trees and mountains on one side and just sort of a cliff side on the other side. But really nice, and then when I got here, of course, it's the same waterfall from yesterday, because I mean, yeah, it's only a kilometer, I'm in the general vicinity. I started figuring out, like, oh yeah, I see the water down there, and there's that rusty, orangey, golden yellow, as they say, color. And yeah, definitely, it must be with Google maps that I haven't been on the proper internet today, because I can't tell you the name of this waterfall. It's not an English today. It was in English yesterday. So yeah, that's gotta be it, I guess, that's very strange, though. I don't know. I mean, there's so many little things about Google maps that drive me nuts. I wish that I could get on the team to whip that thing into shape.

But it is weird that my pre-downloaded map does not take into account at all the language of origin. It's a pretty big, pretty big problem. You know, if you could give me English names or Chinese names, and I need one or not the other, and you gave me the other. I guess it depends on how you think about it. Like to me, I feel like the person who downloads an offline map of the area, I presume that that's a visitor. Not a local, but maybe they're presuming it's a local. Maybe they got stats to say it would probably be a local. I don't know, but anyway, I can't tell you the name of the waterfall. I'm afraid.

Hmm, unless I do have two phones. That's some science.

Let me look it up on my other phone. I like never use my other phones, Matt. But I have been online because this is the phone that I use for day-to-day stuff.

However, Google Maps wasn't open at the time. I don't know.

The life of the man who doesn't have a data plan is a silly and annoying life.

But it still saves me from myself. That I can't check Instagram while I'm up here, you know.

Yeah, this one's in English. Swafeng Falls. TS-U-I-F-E-N-G-Falls. Nice.

So yeah, I'm not extremely high up. I mean, it's not a very big waterfall anyway, or the main part isn't. So I'm a bit above that. But I can get a better view now of the upper part of the waterfall. The smaller part, but I can see it better from up here. Any of you know, it's just cool. It's just neat to be up here from the top. The view from the bottom is the cooler view. But this was nice anyway and just neat to walk here. However, it is definitely not part of the prescribed trail because unfortunately, the other thing that's here is a big gated-off door, one of these steel gated doors with barbed wire on top. They're serious, which is a shame because it does go farther. The platform, it goes way up, like way up to the actual proper top of the waterfall. And it's like, oh, it's such a shame that they won't let me go up there. It's so nearby. It would take 30 seconds to walk up there, but they won't let me. And the only explanation is there is a sign here that says like, don't wash your feet in this water. Don't touch this water. Do not contaminate this water source. It is still water that people use in the current day. And it's like, yeah, okay, sure, but I've been walking along it this whole time. And in fact, the little pipe that it originates from is right out here. I don't understand. I don't understand why I'm not allowed in there. I don't know what it would do. Seems harmless to me. But for whichever reason, they don't want me in there. So I just got to walk back, but that's all right because this was bucked in pretty as hell. This is very nice little walk. And even, yeah, even though I'm only midway up the waterfall, that's fine. That's plenty. I was thinking like I wonder if this would connect up to the little suspension bridge I was at. I still don't know where that goes. It's possible that this maybe would all connect up to that, but I guess I can't find out because I am trapped. Hmm, probably not. Yeah, the ban links suspension bridge. I guess I'm looking at it on the map. It's a little waste from here. It doesn't quite. All connect up. Or does it? The banling trail. I don't know. Very strange. What if I was on the banling trail and I headed this way?

Yeah, I don't know. I just feel like this door should be open. I don't know what the deal is here.

Now, just looking for the temple I was at earlier to see if I could see the name of that. But it's quite hard to determine exactly where it was just by scrolling around Google Maps. I don't see that name. But I read, I guess I'm heading back and continuing along the original journey. But yeah, it's just a little 1.1 kilometer.

What's that word? What's that word when you go around about to a different area? Detour. A 1.1 kilometer detour? Very worth it. Not even just for the water fall at the end, but the whole walk along the waterway is very unique and very cool.


Hmm, this is a bit confusing. I think I'm at the Hongtan thing, whatever it is. But there's like nothing here. It's like a teeny little closed up building. But that's kind of like a cool traditional roof. There's a table here with some ladies just chilling out, having a chat.

Hmm, so if I go back 100 meters, I can connect to the banling trail somehow. If I go forward, another 1.2 kilometers, it's blessed terminus. Here's a little map and there is someone coming from that direction. So this seems like a pretty okay walk for the next kilometer through a mountain trail.

But then to like a road and a bus. Hmm, I wonder where the heck that is. I guess I'm going to go back and try to connect up to this banling trail and see what's going on. Because if I could also start to trend my way back towards civilization now at this point, it might not be the worst thing.

Yeah, I'm not, I'm really not quite sure where I'm going or anything. I'm just following whatever seems the most obvious. Man, the leaves here are like Jurassic Park. Some of these plants have leaves so huge. Again, just like how everything is five or six times bigger than in eastern Canada. Same thing with these leaves. They're just like a leaf on a tree except giant size. It's like, what the fuck? Crazy. I also was really starting to get feeling that feeling of like, man, when's the last time I even saw a washroom? I don't think I saw one at all all day. Even when I was in town proper. If I go the other way, there's a bunch of parks with public washrooms and stuff. But just by coincidence, the direction I went to get to these trails and stuff. If there are any washrooms, I sure don't know where they are. And obviously I'm here. I'm on mountain trails and stuff. But I was still thinking like, it's been a while. And then just as I said that, a pair of squat porta-potties appeared. So it's like, well, can't complain. That's what I wanted. And that's what I asked for.

All right. So here's a little sign.

Hongtan.

Mehu bus station.

Actually, I guess I'm going to go back to where I was and go down that path because I guess that does seem like, I don't know. I don't know where anything goes around here. But this looks like the Henling Historic Trail, I think. Pretty much everything though is eventually just going to lead me to some roads up in the mountains. I don't know. Maybe it's finally a day to take a bus home. Because there's quite a few bus stops. But as for, yeah, walking back down, I think I've just already reached the point where I'm just, I'm a difficult height up into the mountains. And it's only going to get worse. But that's, that's what I'm doing. You know, what did I think was going to happen.

But yeah, we'll just chalk this up to some more general exploring, which has gone pretty well so far anyway. Even just finding that route to the top of the waterfall. Pretty cool. And yeah, I'm just going to bite the bullet eventually. I just got to start taking buses. So a little annoying to just sit and wait for a bus. And then to not quite know where it's going to go. And it might be crowded.

But that is the price you pay for all this awesome geography, all these cool mountain trails and intertwined stuff and neat shit. It's so cool that you can just walk out your door and start wandering around and just be in this twisty tourney up and down, complicated, cool, beautiful mountain jungle stuff. But you can't just unravel it. Or you can actually, you can just unravel it by getting on a bus. That's the only way. By foot, it's not snakes and ladders. There's no water slide. You can just hop on at the top and slide all the way back down into town. It is certainly nice having the extra bottle of water though. I'm not quite done my first one. And I also have a big bottle of coffee. I've been going back and forth between. So I haven't had to break open the extra bottle yet. But it just feels a lot more comfortable having it. There's a definite stress in the back of my mind all the way as if like god damn, I just don't have enough water. And that would totally happen today too because both the water and the coffee bottle are getting low.

But I got a backup. So it's okay.


This is definitely a day where my poor old shirt is as though I walked into a lake just fully soaked with sweat. Gross. I'm actually I'm wearing this shirt that I bought a couple of shirts. From Daiso in Korea that are kind of like mesh. They are good for this. They're going to have a shirt that just gets fully soaked. This kind of sports top. I don't have a lot of these. I just have general normal t-shirts. But this kind of mesh thing is way better. Anyway, this is kind of interesting. Maybe I can walk home after all because the first time I came up here to the monkey trail. The thing I wanted to check out was there was a hiking path that ended at Keonchan Park, Q-I-A-N-S-H-A-N Park. But it was getting on in the day and you know that would have just taken me higher into the mountains. So I just instead I went to the major road and was like oh shit there's a McDonald's and I just walked down the road and that was that. However, now I'm near there. I'm nearer the top of that. I only have a little ways to go. So I can go down that path but in the reverse way. Now I'm at the top so I can go down through the bottom. It's only quarter after four so this should all time out pretty good. And then that'll bring me to the monkey trail. Then from there I can head down the monkey trail. So there's the steeper trickier version of that path that goes down to the waterfall which is the prettier way and then down along the river. But I literally did that yesterday. So instead I can explore the other method down which was you know like proper steps. Will probably be a lot quicker and will not lead to a waterfall but that's fine. So yeah geez it looks like I can walk home after all. This is still working out. This is very much though. I keep thinking I'm kind of at the edge of how far I can really go up by walking but I think this really has to be it. I feel like at this point I really do need to you know take again with the bus thing like take a bus to here and start from here if I want to go meaningfully further up the mountain. Because yeah I'm just stretching this rubber band further and further every time. But speaking of monkeys wait what the fuck is this? pedestrian trail oh shit well now I gotta go explore this. So this is leading further into the mountain but there's a pedestrian trail that literally is just a hallway that leads right into the side of the mountain. Hall of the fucking mountain king what is this shit made by the dwarves. You are here. I'm not that far from the Miyapu trail entrance that heads up to one of the main peaks. Mount Kixin main peak QIX ING.

Mount Kixin bus stop to Langshu Ken pedestrian trail. Wow yes so there's a lot of trails all the way up through these mountains and honestly bus stops like not at the very very mountainous parts but all around Langshu Ken visitor center with a bus stop right there. Fuck man look at that shit that seems like the moneymail and that seems like a very major bus stop in it. I bet it's not that hard to get to. But then there's these other smaller Mount Shemayo trail. What is this? Well I'm right next to that shit. What?

Wait so maybe that's not exactly what I thought I was planning to do but maybe I should do that. I'm really near the northern trail entrance to Mount Shemayo. I don't see any particular reason not to do that. However what is this? What is this? I mean I guess I'll just go through it. I think it's just a short walkway through this mountain. I assume I'll just go through take again during come right back. God damn it's so weird that I'm just about to leave this neighborhood because there's still so much stuff here. I really feel like I'm probably just going to start taking a metro to come back here. Though it's going to be a little cool the new place since it is right across the river from Shimen just to be able to go back there. I'm going up some stairs and yeah and there's some mountains near there too that I can explore.

I just went up a million stairs. Where is this taking me to? What the fuck is this? Alright, so now here's another trail. So what is this shit? Okay, Yang Mishen National Park Headquarters Visitor Center, less than a kilometer from here. So yeah, that would lead me into the National Park proper.

That is not where I want to go. So, back down, back through. Good to know though. As long as I can find a mountainy path, fuck, look at these mountains ahead of me, just like shit. Huge, huge and beautiful.

Man. Oh, that is steep. That doesn't seem pretty bad, but hey, I got my bottle of water, my extra bottle. So anyway, speaking of the monkey trail, I saw a monkey. On that little trail I was just on, which wasn't even very long of a trail. I get light up to this road where scooters are going by. I saw quite a few people on that trail. It was fairly populated. And here's a sign about them. Formosa and Makak. This socialized species of the monkey is in Demic in Taiwan. They live in natural forests, the top air rocks, and in the vicinity of water sources scattered around areas under 3,000 meters above sea level. In consequence of their frequent appearance at dawn and dusk, the following precautions must be taken. Do not stare at the Makak, but continue walking at an easy pace on the far side of the Makak. Please turn around or take a detour. If you're carrying food or pets, do not stop to watch tourist feed. Please ask them to immediately stop teasing the Makak, says it is dangerous. The especially cautious of monkeys that exhibit the following characteristics, monkeys with tails thrust up high, monkeys that stare with a closed mouth with eyebrows that jump up and down. But yeah, I was quite surprised because there was a lot of people on that trail.

And just at the one point where it was just me, that's when a monkey showed up. And it was a single presumably male monkey by itself bigger than I expected. You know, muscular shoulders. You could really see that this thing if it wanted to tear my face off would probably have no problem. And it was a little eerie because it wasn't paying attention to me. But it was just walking right toward me and just not giving a fuck. Very non-plussed. So I did pull out my phone. And while not making eye contact, I did hold up my phone and just took a little awkward video without really looking. So my Instagram is novel pod. If you go on novel pod, you'll have to scroll back because these podcasts takes the while for them to come out. But I took a video of the monkey.

And I was a little concerned because I just threw away my garbage, but I had just opened. I bought this thing ill-advised. I shouldn't have bought it where I usually just buy dried fruit because it's so easy to pack away. You can just put it in your pocket, put it in my little daybag. It doesn't matter if it gets squashed. And it's a good little snack. Oh, here's a washroom. I should stop and take a pebble. Let me finish rambling about the monkey first. Yeah, so I bought this thing today. Not a good thing to buy. It was a little lemon cake thing that I squeezed in my daybag and it was just getting crushed more and more every time I took out this recorder because it really wasn't room for it. So I finally just ate it. This crushed a little lemon cake just to get it out of there. But I had, you know, it was very strong smelling. It's lemon, delicious. But I had the wrapper in my back pockets. I was like, uh-oh, this monkey's walking toward me and I probably smell like a treat. I haven't all day. If anything, I just smelled like a gross sweaty man. But now I smell like lemon deliciousness. But basically, it stalked its way toward me, but it wasn't looking at me. And then it got quite close before it went to the side and just went up into the mountain and it did take one gander at me as it went by. But yeah, I saw a monkey. So I can check that one off the list. Scared me a little. I don't really want to see anymore monkeys. They're definitely like, you can really tell. You can really tell that these things could easily fight you even though, you know, they're a fifth your size. But yeah, I met some kind of bus terminal. See, I'm going to figure out from here somewhere or another around here is a trail that heads back down the mountain. Well, it'll be probably up a mountain and over it and then back down. That's the plan and that should all work out very nicely. And if it doesn't for some reason, I mean, yes, this is a pretty major bus terminal I met right now. There's a lot of buses here. So, good. It's a very good place to bail out. Oh, there's a white guy. Is he the one I saw earlier? Maybe as I was coming back from the waterfall, I passed a bunch of people. It was kind of nice that I got to be at the waterfall by myself and record a little thing because I passed a lot of people on the way back and one of them was even a white guy. And yeah, I think that's him. I guess there's only so many paths you can take around here. We're on the same journey today.

But all right, even though it's only a bit after four, yeah, the sun goes down quick around here and especially with the mountains. It makes it seem as though it's going down extra quick, so I should get a fucking move on.


Well, this seems like a great place if I am to make my way deeper into the National Park. This is a good spot by Kien Shan Park, Q-I-A-N-S-H-A-N Park. It says like a whole little town here. It's got a post office and all kinds of people and little buildings and stuff. I didn't see any convenience stores now that I think about it, but yeah, and from here, pretty good view of those mountains. They're not very far, but they are very tall. Yeah, this would be cool to start from here. Obviously, this time of the day, heck no. And in fact, here's what I got ahead of me. So yeah, the trail I saw in that map, Mount Shemayo Trail. And just the greatest hits, it's 643 meters, and it's like a bit late in the day, and I'm pretty worn out and fucking sweaty, but it's like, well, let's go. That's not that bad, because I mean, I'm already, it says 643 meters, but obviously I'm who knows how far up I am right now. Pretty far up. So yeah, realistically, this is probably no biggie. Yeah, and it's only a kilometer, it says to the peak distance wise, but oh, here we go. Wow, they got everything here. Yeah, I'm actually at 400 meters now. Oh, that's not so bad then. That's not bad at all. Sweet, the Cleano Metric map I've never seen that before, but that's exactly what I need. This mountain's great. They should have that more often. That's exactly what I need to know. But anyway, that's the cliff's notes, but Mount Shemayo, which reaches a height of 643 meters, is a parasitic cone of the Mount Kixin volcano. It's attractively round bell shape, was formed by the slow-flowing, highly viscous lava that erupted from the mountain, and the depression in its center is the result of lava in the crater contracting as it cooled. Can I give credit to the English on these signs, by the way? It is so much fucking better than Japan and Korea, like a hundred times better, a million times better. It's just proper English, you know. The mountain is named Shemayo, which means gauze cap, because of its strong resemblance to the black gauze headgear worn by Chinese officials in dynastic times. Thanks to the shelter of Mount Kixin, which protects it from much of the effects of the fierce northeasterly monsoons, wonder Mount Kixin, is that what I'm seeing behind me? Is that what they're referring to? It is a much bigger mountain nearby. Mount Shemayo is heavily forested over most of its area, exceptions are small expanses of silver grass and arrow bamboo on the top, and the trail is densely shaded. So that could be interesting. I'm probably not going to feel much like I'm on a mountain, and there may not be a view from up there, unless I luckily get to some point that is one of these rare exceptions, but that's fine. In addition to the vegetation, hikers on the trail have a chance to observe monkey's birds, reptiles, insects, and butterflies, although it does say watch out for snakes to not feed wild animals, yet, yet again, probably better, you don't see most of these things. Signs of early development by Chinese immigrants, reforestation during the Japanese occupation period, and the visit of Crown Prince Hero Hito can still be seen on the mountain. Among the historic sites are the tomb of the grandmother of King Dynasty scholar Chen Xiaoling, the Chen He boundary stone, and Prince's pavilion. Along the trail, you can also see tree species that were planted during the Japanese occupation, including Crypto-Maria, Taiwan cherry, and Formosen sweet gum. So many things I've never heard of before. You can enter the trail from the northern trail head, Yangmin pond entrance, opposite the teacher center bus stop on Shimao Road, so I think that's where I am. Beside Yangmin Lake in Kian Chen Park, or from the southern trail head, Dapu hiking trail entrance, between the first observation post bus stop and the Dingbanland bus stop. So yeah, that's where I was before, those bus stops, and I was like, oh, there's a trail near here, but no time today, no time for love, Dr. Jones. The trail is 2.2 kilometers long, and the one way hike takes about an hour and a half. It is an easy class 2 hike. Good enough. So yeah, actually I'm going to be cutting this a little close as far as daylight goes, especially if I got to keep walking home after this. So I should have stopped standing here, reading, fucking informational signs, and get moving. But that was very interesting and informational. It turns out a lot of these signs, I'm like, I don't know whatever, I don't care. But I guess if it's about a mountain, I suddenly do care, because I love mountains. So yeah, it did seem like there were various things to see, the tomb of so-and-so, and what nots, that I may not see, because I'm not going to meander, or whatever the direct path is up over this mountain, that's what I'm doing today. But if it does appear that there's cool stuff up here to see, maybe I'll come back and explore that later. But yeah, for today, just up and over.


All right, I said I wasn't going to just stop and read all these signs, but they're just, they continue to just be interesting. So I passed one that was just about general ecology and nature of how these plants look peaceful, but they're in a constant battle to try to out reproduce each other and take all those to space. But this one, the story of the Taiwan cherry. As you walk up the mountain from the trail head beside Yangman Lake in Ken Shan Park, do you see the Taiwan cherry trees that crowd the trail welcoming you? No, I did not notice that, because I actually don't really know what they look like. Well, I mean, I guess it's not, you know, cherry blossom season, so they just look like trees. However, the Taiwan cherry is endemic to Taiwan and is commonly used as an ornamental tree in the Yangminshan area. By the way, so Yangman Lake and Yangminshan. Again, I think this is one of these cases. Shan probably means mountain, Yangminshan. So if I say Mount Yangminshan, but I don't know. All right, there is a special story, however, behind the Taiwan cherry trees along the Mount Shimao Trail. The Japanese governor general decided to carry out reforestation on Mount Shimao, Mount Kixin, and Mount Dayton to welcome the visit of Crown Prince Hero Hito in 1923 by creating landscapes similar to those of Japan. Alongside the roads, the Japanese planted Taiwan cherries, foremost in sweetgums and other ornamental trees that provided seasonal changes. Hero Hito never made it to Mount Shimao, which is odd because I thought the other sign insinuated that he did, but anyway, Hero Hito never made it to Mount Shimao, but his visit to Taiwan left these beautiful scenes which we enjoy even today. So yeah, that's just really cool. That's literally a hundred years ago. They planted a bunch of these trees in a direct effort to semi-replicate Japan. Weird thing to do in some ways, it's like why if the emperor was visiting from Japan? Doesn't he want to see Taiwan as it is? He doesn't need to see a version of Taiwan that looks like Japan, but whatever. People do weird stuff for royalty. And yeah, it's just neat that, again, to this day, it's like that classic thing that, you know, plant a tree even though you yourself will never get to experience the comfort of its shade, but you will be giving that gift to future generations. I mean, that's literally what happens here. They planted a bunch of trees, and they're still here.

And apparently, given the time of year, it's variously beautiful, depending on what's in bloom. Where this time of year, it's just greenery, but they're sure there's a lot of it.

All in the next little sign, it first says like, okay, this one. Less interesting, it's just about how there's a lot of shade under the trees, so plants that do well in a shady environment are all over the place, particularly ferns. And there's the different ferns and mushrooms and flying spider monkey ferns, one of them. However, those giant plants, I saw earlier, where I was just saying how ludicrously big they are. Those, apparently their name, is giant elephants ear ferns. And it's like, that's the perfect name. That's what it is, dude. Just a great big fucking leaf, the size of an elephant's ear. That is cool. I don't think I've ever seen an elephant in real life. I don't know where I would have. I just remember in Ontario, at a zoo, I saw a giraffe for the first time. And I was shocked how big it was. It's like, Jesus Christ, giraffes are really fucking big. So I got to assume a favor saw an elephant, I'd be freaked to fuck out. Yeah, elephant ear fern. Good, good fucking name.


All right, I made it to the peak of Mount Shamao, and it does seem like it's pretty much one trail up one side down the other. I don't think there are a lot of optional things up here if there are. Nothing major, so that's cool. But yeah, I definitely recommend it. I mean, everything today and yesterday, everything I've done I would recommend. I feel like if you just go to those historic steps on the monkey trail and just wander around. Just anywhere around there will lead you to something cool. And this view in particular, I mean, this is the National Park. This is it. I'm seeing everything in Yangman National Park. And it is foreboding. I'm also up to my left. It's quite overcast. I wonder if it's going to rain. I mean, it seems like it's late in the afternoon now. Probably if it was going to rain, it would have, but that is very ominous looking over there. But yeah, I can see all of it, man. There's in the distance, Mount Zagau, 830 meters. That one's a bit farther away, but that seems a lot less freaky, especially since what I'm on now is 643. So it's only a little taller. The big mountain I was looking at before, that is indeed Mount Kixin, QIX, IN, G. I'm probably pronouncing that wrong. But yeah, apparently that's the reason why the, oh, sorry, I'm just talking to myself. That's why the plants here are so doing so well is because they're protected by this mountain. And this one is 1,104 meters. Oh, and 1,120 for the others. There's two peaks. That's the big one. I think that's the biggest one in this whole park. And yeah, I mean, 1,000 meters. You know, it's all relative. It's not as big as Halasan or anything, but it's big. You know, it's not far, though, again. It's like from, from that entrance down below here. It never takes as long as I think it's going to take to walk up a mountain. So maybe it wouldn't be so bad, but it really is tall, man. It's really high. And then over to the side, Mount Data is almost as high, 1,092 meters. And it looks, it looks even scarier because it's kind of off by itself. And it's got horrible clouds on it today. So yeah, I don't know. I don't know. I mean, it presumably I'll make it somewhere over there at some point, but it's, uh, this is like a great view of it, but it's not like, oh, wow, I'm so excited to go do that. If anything, it's like, scary. So do I really want to do that? And then just 1 kilometer down to the Dapu hiking trail entrance. Yeah, a guy, just a dude with a water bottle, a local stopped in behind me. I don't know how good his English was. He didn't speak to me, but I just figured since I was already talking to myself, I just kept talking. Again, the beauty of just having a recorder, you know, the guy was just so non-plussed about it. You know, it's like, yeah, maybe it's a little weird that I'm talking to myself. But if I had a phone out, if I was doing the selfie thing, if I was doing a vlog, that would not have been as comfortable as it was. He didn't give a shit. He's just like, yeah, go on. Do your thing. Talking to yourself. It's so innocuous. I think I'll just be an audio talking to myself guy forever. I mean, the world's full of vloggers. There's enough vlogs out there. But yeah, that's so much less comfortable. I love just doing audio.

Oh, here's the Princess Pavilion. Do you know what these stone columns, basestones, and round stone tables were used for? They are the remains of a scenic pavilion that was built for the visit of Grand Prince Hirohito to Taiwan in 1923. The Prince visited Grass Mountain, the former name of Yangminshan. But after his day at the Grass Mountain guesthouse, he went straight to Betu to see the famous Haku-tolite stone there and had no chance to visit Mount Shimano. So the Pavilion never served the Prince, but it served large numbers of other visitors who came to see the sites here. This is kind of neat. Yes, just a little stone table. Pretty small. So I mean, that's kind of neat. That explains the story more. I think it's no biggie that the Prince, as I'm unraveling this story, no biggie they didn't come to this mountain. I mean, this is a very small mountain, you know. One kilometer up, one kilometer down, not that big a deal. If he went to Yangminshan, right next door, that's clearly the money mill and that's the big one. And Betu seems pretty famous as well. That's where the the sulfur springs were, although that stone they were talking about yet another word I don't know. So I don't know what that is. But maybe I'll learn at some point. Maybe I'll stumble across it.

But yeah, now just heading down the other side. And yeah, that view, that view was crazy, man. That view was nuts to seeing all the mountains. Like that's where I mean, we'll see. We'll see how things go with the national park. I'm getting closer and closer. I'm learning more and more how to get there. But there's an anecdote I might have brought this up before. But it's something Carl Pilkington said. Jesus, be quiet. God, the nature is so loud around here. Is that just the cat is again? Probably. God, it's unbelievable how loud they get. But Carl Pilkington is my favorite travel guy because he doesn't pull punches. I feel like so much travel stuff is so fake. You know, I've never seen a travel show that feels like what traveling is really like because they always just try to put a bow on everything. You know, I try not to be overly critical. But I at least, I like to think I'm at least presenting stuff at the level of excitement that it deserves. Maybe every single thing you see is not world-changing. It's just another place. It's just a place where people live. And now I'm here. But it's still great. It's just great at a more subdued level. And I feel like travel shows and travel vloggers. They're always trying to big everything up. It gets tiresome. Carl, if anything, Carl Pilkington, if you've never seen his various travel shows, he's probably a little too negative. You know, he's just like his whole stick as he's a guy from Northern England who doesn't even really want to leave Northern England. So he has quite a jaded view of stuff. But I like that better than the alternative because at least he's honest about things. You know, when he gets to the pyramids, he doesn't perfectly frame his shot to just see the pyramids and talk about how grand they are. Instead, he's like, look, there's a KFC next to the pyramids. And there's a dirty diaper blowing around in the wind. That's the truth, you know. And I like to know that that if I ever get to the pyramids somehow, I'm not going to be disappointed because it's not like the travel shows. If anything, it'll make me like it better. Because when I see the KFC, I'll be like, that's fine. I already knew there was the KFC here, you know. I don't like, I like that he doesn't lie to you. But anyway, one of the famous things he said is there were these ancient caves somewhere in the Middle East and they were across from, you know, a fancy palace or whatever. And he made the point that, you know, it seems like you would want to live in the palace. But he made the point that he would prefer to live in the caves because the caves aren't that bad, they're fine. And then when you look out your window, you see the amazing palace. Whereas if you live in the palace and you look at the window, all you see is these crappy caves, you know, it's better to live in the caves and have the view of the palace. And it's a good example of his mindset about stuff. It's, you know, he has an uncommon way of looking at things. And I kind of feel like this could be a similar situation. I just got the money melon view. There can't possibly be a better view. I mean, I would be very surprised if there's a better view of that national park because on the other side is just the coastline. So I don't think there's any other mountains, you know, a nearly 700 foot mountain to get a view from. And if you're on the mountain itself, the problem with being on mountains is unless you get the perfect view, you can't even tell you're on a mountain. This mountain's no different. Luckily that one part at the top has a clear area and I got that view. Nowhere else on this mountain is the review of fucking anything, you know. It's really cool and nice in its own way, but it's just walking through a jungle path. I can't see anything. And that might be what it's like, you know, if I'm on one of those other mountains in Yangmunshan Park, what am I going to see? You know, maybe it'll all work out just right that you get this amazing view. Or maybe you're just, you know, so you can't see the forest for the trees. You know, you're just on the mountain and you can't see anything. And that was like a premium view. That was an amazing fucking view. So if I never do manage to make it all the way through and unravel the puzzle of that national park, that's okay because as far as views of the park, I mean, that was cool too. I saw all the peaks, all three of them. What the fuck? That is like perfect, man. Like, how is that? How is that real? Are there some other elephant ear ferns? God, they're fucking huge. They're so big. But yeah, that is like, it's like a set piece in a video game or in a movie, you know, it's like, we're about to go. Tomorrow is the day we must go face the giant mountains, but today we just see them coming, like in a fantasy novel or something, like, oh man, we're making camp here and we're just looking at tomorrow's impossible task. That's what this felt like, but it's like, man, how lucky, how neat that this view is here.

Shame you missed it here, oh, he tell, but hey, I'm sure you were busy. I'm sure you were a busy man. 1923, I guess you weren't taking cheap discount flights to get to Taiwan. I should look into that. How did he get here, presumably just a boat? I don't know anything about any of that. That might be an interesting story.


Wow, coming out the other side of that mountain was surprisingly uninviting, surprisingly unfriendly, because everything in Taipei has been so approachable and well maintained and well signposted and stuff so far. But yeah, coming out the other side of that mountain, it just kind of dumps you on this little narrow mountain road, and you can't even walk like consistently on just one side of it. You have to kind of go back and forth a couple of times just to have enough room to walk. You know, it's not the longest walk in the world, it's not the worst, but it's surprisingly just like fend for yourself feeling. Which again, I mean, when there's a road on a mountain pass, I guess there's the limit to what you can do to accommodate a pedestrian. But yeah, I mean, I think it worked out in my case, because it was a bit of a walk to get to the bus stop. It was not even a bus stop. It's funny. There should at least be a bus stop right there. But you got to walk a little ways to get to the bus stop. And in my case, because I've already reversed engineered this, you know, now I'm on my way down the path to the original monkey pass, and I should be able to get home, and it should all be good. But if this was your first time, I don't know that I would recommend that at all, especially since the other side is so nice and inviting in the nice little town with a post office and the big bus depot. It might be better to go up that mountain and then go right back down the way you came if you want to take a bus to escape or whatever. Because there's nothing particularly special about the other side. It's basically, you know, the same informational plaques, just on the other side of the mountain. And in fact, that side has way more, they've kind of like got walls built up, just to stop landslides and things. So it's actually a little less pretty. And yeah, then it just kind of spits you out on this awkward mountain road, unless you know for sure where you're going after that point, I wouldn't say that's the best plan, even if you're just planning to hop on a bus. I think it's better to go back to where you came and catch a bus from there, and you'll have way more bus options as well. But yeah, I'm back to the monkey trail, and I met that perfect time of day where the sun is like almost red. It's so bright orange. So the light, whenever the sunshine hits the plants just right, it looks so bright red. It's like a fire. I haven't seen that since Japan. I saw a couple of instances of that. But the sun itself, whenever I catch it in this guy, it's going to be dark soon, but it's still like relatively high in this guy. But it's so beautiful. You know, it looks like what the sun looks like just before it disappears, like behind the, you know, the water or something. Right before sunset, it's that brightness level.

Except in this case, just with my elementary science knowledge of just refracting through fucking air or whatever, the sun is way high in the sky. It shouldn't look like that. And it's clear that it looks like that because of the pollution today, because it's such a polluted day. And it reminds me a lot of jet-chon. There were some days on jet-chon where I was walking through the farmer fields, heading home. And the sun was quite high in the sky, but it looked like this. And it reminds me of being in like a sci-fi story, like a 1970s sci-fi novel. Here we go. Here's the steps that lead down to the waterfall. But today, I'm going to take the proper steps. Here's a dog. Maybe I'm not. Jeez, what is this? How upset are you, doggy? I really want to go down that path. But this dog, he was just laying on the steps and then barking at me. Now he's going down the steps. God damn it. What is this? Because if I continue on, I mean, it's along the monkey path, and then I just got to walk down the historic steps. It's not that big of a deal. But there's an angry dog down there somewhere. Whatever, I'm not messing with no barky dogs. It is getting dark anyway, just in case. Because I honestly don't know. I just assume that it's a more direct path down that way if I don't go to the waterfall, but I don't actually know. So fuck it. A monkey path it is. And then down the 1300 steps, rest in peace, my knee.

Yeah, that's the first time a stray dog has been mad at me. They're generally so nice. Anyway, what the fuck was I saying? Oh, yeah, and Jetchon walking home. And yeah, it looks, I remember thinking like, geez, that looks like a 1970s sci-fi novel cover, just this big crazy blood-red sun in the sky. So yeah, anyway, that's a bonus to pollution. It makes the sun look beautiful.

What a weird, I don't know. It just feels weird now. It's like, this is fine. I know where I'm going. It'll all be fine. But right at the end, it's like, oh, what a glorious day. What an amazing couple of days back to back of exploring stuff and finding cool stuff. What a weird ending. It's just like, why is there a dog guarding the place I wanted to go to? That's never happened before. What the fuck? Oh well, whatever. I guess everything. Who knows, actually, maybe that dog saved me for myself.

I don't actually know where that pass goes or exactly where it ejects a person. Where as I do know, exactly where this goes. This goes directly back to town. Wait a minute. Here's another set of stairs. Maybe these are the ones. So you did save me, dog. I was about to go down a different set of stairs. Okay, well, I'm going to go down these stairs now.

So what the heck were those stairs? I apologize, doggy. I apologize. You sent me the right way. You're the spirit of navigation in barking dog form. I didn't understand the message. However, I didn't understand it, but I did follow it. I'm not going to go mess with no barking dogs. But okay, presumably, I'll just head down this thing and be more or less back in town and everything will be fine. But it is getting dark quick. So I'm hurrying a little. Yeah, it's a little after six. And it's going to be dark before seven. So assuming the episode just fades out right now, everything was fine. If I come back after this fade out, that's a bad thing. But I'm pretty sure it all worked out today. And yeah, my second bottle of water is half gone. Thank God for that second bottle of water. Not optional. Not an optional thing. It's amazing how long it took me to fucking get that shit sorted out. But okay, thank you for listening.

Presumably, next episode, I'll be at the new Airbnb back in a different neighborhood.

But I can easily come back here. Should the urge hit me, because everything is pretty easy to get to in Taipei. But I do think now, now that I've literally been to the big bus stop, right at the entrance to the National Park, I believe that will be the plan. If I head back this way, it's bus to the National Park time. But, yeah, there's no question that view from across. You know, seeing all three of the peaks from a distance, it was kind of the opposite of inspirational. Like, man, that is quite a thing. That is quite a to do. I'm sure I'll give it a shot, but I mean, I don't think I need to. No big hurry on that one. Oh, man, look at that fucking sun. It is like just getting brighter and brighter. It's nearing the mountains now. And yet, it's just like, ah, red orange, blood orange colored sun. But yeah, join me next time for more Taipei adventures. Until then, have a wonderful day, Adios.